Originally Posted by DDMotorsports Just make sure you switch to longer wheel studs before throwing spacers on. DD, any experience with the H&R spacers? They have always made a quality
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02-02-2009, 10:05 PM | #16 (permalink) | |
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DD, any experience with the H&R spacers? They have always made a quality product and meet TUV and iso9001standards. They have quite a few different styles. wheel adapter: wheel adaptor - hr spacers - vw wheel adapters - hr wheel spacers - hr spacer
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02-02-2009, 10:20 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Are you doing 20 all around or just in the rear?
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02-03-2009, 12:08 AM | #18 (permalink) | |
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02-03-2009, 12:35 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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So, I was wondering how does the spacers effect the car in the long run? Could it do damage if you were to take it on a course?
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02-03-2009, 05:10 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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spacers will not damage anything if installed correctly.. but always make sure there is enough thread left.. ect ect.. to me.. 20mm sounds on the high side.. you may have vibration issues at high speed..
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02-03-2009, 08:44 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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02-03-2009, 08:49 AM | #22 (permalink) |
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Enough thread on what? These spacers come with their own studs, so there shouldn't be any change in the amount of thread that the wheels mount on to. The spacers themselves mount onto the stock studs. Of course, if for some reason I decide not mount them onto the hub and use them as a direct pass-through spacer, I'd knock out the stock studs and replace them with longer, high-strength, ones -- precisely to ensure there's enough thread. In any case, I've decided to play it a little safer and go with 15mm instead. I want to avoid the 'skateboard' look.
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02-03-2009, 01:07 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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FYI, DD can't get a hold of the Kics spacers in 15mm, so I'm exploring other options right now.
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02-04-2009, 10:48 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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I have always recommended the H&R TRAK+ wheel spacers. They come in different widths according to your needs. They also come with extended wheel studs necessary for a proper and safe fitment.
Here's a link to their product page: H&R TRAK+® Wheel Spacers || Products || H&R Special Springs, LP Go check them out. The DR series doesn't come with extended studs, but the other ones do I believe. Just read the description and it tells you if it does or not. |
02-05-2009, 08:19 AM | #27 (permalink) | |
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15MM Aluminum Bolt-On Wheel Spacers Btw, I took a look at the H&R's before. If you look at their product line carefully, it appears that they only have two series that come with their own wheel studs -- the "Trak+ Adapers" and the "DRM" series. For the former, it states "Available in thicknesses ranging from 20mm to 25mm," and for the latter, "40 - 90 mm track widening." Point being, if you want to go below 20mm (I decided to go with 15mm), you have to go with something like their DR series, which does not come with its own wheel studs. DR Series 10 - 40 mm track widening DR Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require longer wheel bolts (ordered separately). Please verify bolt specifics before ordering (taper or round bolt head and shaft length). So you'd have to purchase longer studs separately, hammer out the stock studs and install the new ones in order to use these.
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02-05-2009, 01:41 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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Oh. I recommended H&R spacers as an alternative to the ones that were mentioned already in the thread. It's just another option for anyone looking at spacers. I haven't used the Project Kics or the Ichiba ones, so I wouldn't know.
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02-05-2009, 08:15 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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The spacers are a no-go.
I installed one on the front driver's side. I was even taking pictures every step of the way so that I could provide step-by-step instructions. Then when I went to mount the wheel back on, lo and behold, it wouldn't go in all the way. If you look at the second and third picture below, you will see that the way these are designed, the stock wheel studs stick out a bit. Now, this normally isn't a problem, because the nubs just go into the spaces/slots in between the holes on the back of the wheel (see fourth pic). Well guess what? Those slots in between the holes aren't cut low enough. The nubs from the stock wheel studs can't clear them! Take a close look at the last picture. To figure out what was going on, I laid the wheel down flat on the ground, then placed a spacer on top. The spacer's wheel studs are in through the holes of the wheel. The holes you see in the picture are where the nubs of the stock wheel studs would go through. You can see through the holes that they're about halfway blocked by the bottoms of the slots. Way to go, Nissan! I have three options: (1) take a grinder and grind out the bottoms of those slots just enough for the nubs to clear; (2) knock the studs out of spacers, knock the stock studs out of the wheel hubs, then install extra length studs back into the wheel hubs and pass them through the spacers; or (3) say screw it and return the spacers. I'm going with option 3. Option 1, grinding the stock wheels, just doesn't sound like a great idea to me. And option 2 would defeat the whole purpose of getting spacers of this design. If I wanted to change out the stock studs for extra length ones, it'd make more sense to go with the H&R DR series. Well, I'm sorry it didn't work out. I know a lot of you were eager to see how the car would look with the wheels pushed out a bit. But at least this will save the rest of you a bunch of time and hassle. I've taken one for the team! (And you may thank me with rep points. )
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"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. Last edited by semtex; 02-05-2009 at 08:17 PM. |
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