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20 inch wheels
I've had my 20's on my car before but it didn't drive all that great..it pulled within the grooves of the road alot. I think I had a discussion about this before but I kept getting different answers, so I figured I'd go for it again. Anyway..the offset is 45..does that mean I should get spacers? And what mm? I bought hubcentric rings because someone told me I needed them but Im still so confused. If I can't get this handled soon, I'm just gonna sell the wheels and put 15/20mm on my stockers.
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Spacers aren't going to improve the handling, it just changes the track width (which may change the handling characteristic but that's a different issue).
Hubcentric centering rings are required with any aftermarket wheel, but this is to help keep your wheels centered and balanced. If you are having a handling problem it could simply be the fact that the wheels are lower profile and wider than stock, wide wheels have a tendency to follow every groove in the road. You could try to counter it by increasing the amount of toe-in, but I think it is always going to do it to a certain extent. Where your stock wheels 18" or 19"? |
18s...its just weird tho because I had these wheels on the 350 without any issues
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20's will definitely track more than the 18's. My 19's with wide tires track like crazy on certain bad roads.
Do you have the same tires installed as before? Find a shop that will do custom alignments and tell them that you want to increase toe-in to max stock spec. My shop does custom alignments for $70, same as a regular one. |
Also, I have noticed differences between the tires themselves. What I mean by this is I've experienced some aggressive/sticky tread patterns tend to track along grooves in the road, while other "touring" type threads did not.
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IMO the overall diameter of the wheel has nothing to do with 'tracking' (OPs complaint). It has everything to do with the tires tread pattern, contact patch, tire width, and alignment. Obviously Z rated performance tires are going to track more than non-directional all season tires due to their aggressive, directional pattern.
Suggestion - Since you already have hubrings, get a proper 4-wheel alignment like Chris said and maybe even have the wheels rebalanced. |
Thanks for all this information guys!
I just got back from getting the 20's put back on. And to my surprise, these tires are actually BETTER than the stock 18s. I don't know if it's from the hub rings, Stillen sway bars, or from changing the tire psi to 45 (max is 50). But overall I am very happy compared to how the car felt a few months ago with these wheels. I actually like the way they feel and sound which is quieter than stock..I can hear the exhaust more :) But it definitly needs 20-25mm spacers for the rears and some coilovers and I'm set! I'm shocked I didn't even need a balance or alignment |
Considering you were missing the centering rings before it may have helped.
Now that you've got it riding how you like it, try dropping the tire pressure some. 45 psi is pretty extreme, stock is 35 psi cold. |
But that is for the stock tire. My wheel states ''50 max psi". If I end up having problems, I'll take your advice :) thanks
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And remember, pressure increases with temperature, so as it gets warmer and with the friction of the tire on the road you could easily exceed 50 psi if you start at 45. |
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As a guide you should generally expect a 1 psi change in pressure for every 10 degree change in the tire temperature. Note that under normal driving your tire temperature will be 10-20 degrees higher than the air temperature after several miles, and under aggressive driving it could be 40-50 degrees higher.
Try dropping down to 40 all around and see how it does. With the stock metal valve stems I haven't seen any pressure loss at all, just fluctuations in pressure due to temperature. With cheap rubber stems you might lose a tiny bit but probably not enough to notice. |
yes sophia def bring your tires back down to 40. dont exceed that.
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Ok, I'll change t tomorrow and hope the ride feels the same. Thanks guys ;)
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