325/30/19 Best sticky tire for the money

ZStalker505

The 305/30 Michelin 4s on the car barely hold the power. What would you put on if you were trying to get the best tire/grip for the money. R888, YOKOHAMA ADVAN APEX V601, CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT FORCE, Kenda Kaiser, Falken AZENIS RT660?

Use may be helpful, spirited street, occasional canyon twisty use, straight line roll race. I can run 305 315 or 325's. Car came with 275/35/19 and 305/30/19 not sure why a wider tire was not used for the rear..

fryzia23

Best tire for the money that I had personally, nankang ar1. Very good cold grip, superb at the track. Not so great in the rain but if you want grip thats the way to go.

Tractionless

Been trying to tell everyone that since joining the forum lol. My previous car had them and would spin 4th during part throttle on ramp acceleration!

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Toys Not Tots

Rusty

If you are going with R Dot tires. Here's the thing. They are grippy when new. But after they get heat cycled a few times. They become hard, and takes a lot of heat to get them to work again. And you won't be able to do that on the street.

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"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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SG4247

I just put on pair of

285/35R-19 BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE-71RS XL

They are amazing, very impressed with these, they hook as good as my Hoosier DR2 drag radials.

Wish they had them in 325s.

Doubt if they will last long.

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NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
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Spooler

R888r's is what I run. What size wheel do you have. That is key. You really need a 19x11.5 rear wheel and run 325/30/19 tires. If you stuff a 19x12 wheel under there you can run a 345/30/19 R888r.

Spooler

I forgot to ask what diff do you have and what suspension mods have you done?

2011 Nismo#91

I wouldn't go with DOT Street Slicks for that application. They are not as good for only street driving because the operating temp requirements and they can be downright terrifying in the rain. Any good summer tire will work well for those purposes and will be less of a headache. I personally am using the CONTINENTAL EXTREMECONTACT SPORT 02. My 2nd choice would be the MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S. Some other runner ups would be the HANKOOK VENTUS V12 EVO2 and NITTO NT555 G2.

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GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

ZStalker505

Stock nismo 19x10.5
Stock diff, GKTech subframe collars, epoxy filled diff bushing, Z1 diff brace. KW V3s, Z1 forged fucas, adjustable rear camber arms.
At sea level car made 634whp. Just for grins I'm getting a dyno done this Thursday to see what it makes at elevation.

Spooler

Just what I thought. You need a diff upgrade bad. Wavetrac or an OS Giken. Do that and then reevaluate. The stock VLSD will get you and cause you to wreck if you are not careful.

ZStalker505

I dont track the car and so far I havent had any issues with the diff usually drive with trac off, she gets a little sideways often and steps out pretty hard if I shift into second the punch it only really scared me once... also installed a yaw bypass switch but havnt played with that turned off. Why would the nismo vlsd cause me to wreck can you expound on that?

Spooler

It is very unstable/unpredictable. Keep messing around with it and you will find out.

Rusty

The oem VLSD is a piece of sh!t. Once they get hot. They become unpredictable. The more heat, miles on them. The worse they get.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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Spooler

I guess GBrettin needs to have a conversation with you about the stock VLSD.

gbrettin

My VLSD fvcked me over pretty good. On low power of 650/650 my VLSD sh1t the bed when it was cold and going 40mph. My tune wasn't completely done so the power came in pretty wild and turned my right rear into a peg leg and sent me off the road at 45deg. Do your self a favor and change it while your car is shiny. My car ended up in swamp, but that was pure luck. I could have easily hit a tree and died.