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Steering wheel vibration 70-80 mph help?!

Originally Posted by AstatenateZ The whole 3-4 , 45-10mph brakes , then 5-10 , 60-15mph in succession stops? That's probably overkill, but, yeah. The few times I've needed to do

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Old 12-06-2017, 10:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
The whole 3-4 , 45-10mph brakes , then 5-10 , 60-15mph in succession stops?
That's probably overkill, but, yeah. The few times I've needed to do it, 3 or 4 60ish-10 runs fixed the problem. Let brakes cool before coming to a full stop.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
Yup. Just make sure you don't stand on the brakes while stopped at any point during the bedding process or the 15 minute cool down period after.
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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
That's probably overkill, but, yeah. The few times I've needed to do it, 3 or 4 60ish-10 runs fixed the problem. Let brakes cool before coming to a full stop.
Okay got it 60-10mph 3-4 times and. Then drive it for 15 mins and let them cool. Got it. When I get off I have an industrial road by my work I can do 3-4 60-10 brakes and then get on the interstate to my house 10-15 mins drive at about 65-70mph so should be plenty of time for it to cool down and i won’t be on my brakes. This just burns off the built up deposits correct? Then why couldn’t I use a brake cleaner? Doesn’t properly clean off the burnt on deposits or what? Sorry never really had issues with brakes before and I have the sport package.
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
... This just burns off the built up deposits correct?
Yes

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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
Then why couldn’t I use a brake cleaner? Doesn’t properly clean off the burnt on deposits or what? ...
Brake cleaner is for removing oil and grease, not baked on deposits.

I've heard of people using sandpaper to get rid of the glaze but padding is easier (and more fun).
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 40 to 332 View Post
You mention that you have after-market 19" wheels ... but no hub rings. If all else fails, you may want to consider purchasing a set of hubcentric rings and then install the wheels with the rings in place and check for vibrations ... perhaps first with the spacers removed, and then with the spacers installed. Although not always necessary, the rings can help center the wheels during install. Also, I assume that you have the correct type of lug nuts for your wheels.
That was something else I thought of! Only thing I was thinking... was if it was hub rings it would do it with or without the HC spacers. And I don't remember my car juddering a month ago when I installed spacers or before. Just within the last couple weeks. Seeing as how the spacers are hub centric 66.1 just like the OEM Nissan hub (bore). But for like $10 a set, it wouldn’t hurt to try. Most I can rule out right now is wheels are balanced issue, struts / coil overs check out fine and alignment is good since it was done maybe a month ago and I've not hit any big bumps or done anything to knock it out of whack. I did brake bedding process and will report back tomorrow to see if braking judder has gone away, got better / worse ! Then I’ll pull spacers off front , see if that helps. Maybe try the hub rings see if it works. And if all that doesn’t work I’m gonna get new rotors in a few months and go over braking system, stuck pads, kinked brake lines something. That's about all I know of honestly...

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Originally Posted by crazy4oldcars View Post
Yeah, I don't think you could drive it spirited enough on the streets (without getting arrested ) to get them that hot. Maybe something like the Tail of the Dragon.
Not saying they may not be warped, just that it would more likely be a direct than something you did.
I'm just all caught up in this, like, "Enquiring minds want to know!". Lol.

Kirk B.
I agree! I’ve never had warped rotors. Not even on my sport bikes. And that thing I got way faster on and slowed down a lot faster too. So The Z should be good but idk. I’m not gonna rule out warped rotors just yet. I did do the 60-10 , 5 Times though! Read my below post to @SouthArk!

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Yes


Brake cleaner is for removing oil and grease, not baked on deposits.

I've heard of people using sandpaper to get rid of the glaze but padding is easier (and more fun).

Gotcha! Well okay I did about 5 , 60-10mph brakes on the last one they started to skip while stopping, like ABS was about to kick in so I stopped, got on interstate and drove home 10 or so mins. I had to touch my brakes lightly a couple times but NEVER completely stopped and let the pads sit on rotor. Even when I got home I coasted in driveway and pulled e-brake. I put my hand to rotor on the cooling fin area and it was warm but cool enough to touch so I’m assuming it got it’s good 60-10mph brakes in and properly cooled. So we shall see tomorrow if judder while braking has stopped, got better / worse, etc. Vibration from 65-80 are still there after bedding though just for the record.
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Get your front rotors cut. Rotors do warp. Put a dial indicator on them and watch the runout. You already tried to bed the pads and that didn't work.

The vibrations that you are feeling that come and go is from the road surface. Different type of surfaces will produce different vibrations. Mine on grooved concrete is terrible. Smooth concrete is better. Fresh blacktop is great.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
... Vibration from 65-80 are still there after bedding though just for the record.
Maybe it isn't rotor deposits. It's a common cause of vibration but not the only one. If you still think a rotor may be warped, check run-out, as per Rusty.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Get your front rotors cut. Rotors do warp. Put a dial indicator on them and watch the runout. You already tried to bed the pads and that didn't work.

The vibrations that you are feeling that come and go is from the road surface. Different type of surfaces will produce different vibrations. Mine on grooved concrete is terrible. Smooth concrete is better. Fresh blacktop is great.
But it didn’t do it before, same roads / interstate I drive everyday to / from work. Only started doing it recently.

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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
Maybe it isn't rotor deposits. It's a common cause of vibration but not the only one. If you still think a rotor may be warped, check run-out, as per Rusty.
I will check run-out when I can! But if it is a warped rotor I’m not getting them cut or anything. Just deal with it for a couple more months and get new rotors + pads!

I also went ahead and got some hub rings (aluminum) heard they’re better than the poly carb kind due to poly carbs melting. Not to say that’s it but figured it’s worth a shot. My aftermarket wheels don’t have them and it definitely doesn’t sit properly when the wheel is just sitting on lugs. It fixes a little but no way it can be 100% perfect even when torqued with that gap there. So I will see if that helps. Wheels are 73.1 and hub is 66.1 so I got the 73.1 to 66.1 should be here this weekend / Monday! If that doesn’t help. Then I’ll go into checking rotors / brake system more !
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
But it didn’t do it before, same roads / interstate I drive everyday to / from work. Only started doing it recently.

As your tires wear. It will change the vibration too. Look at how your tires are wearing. When my front tires start to wear down. They will change the vibration. And I know I will have to change front tires soon.



I will check run-out when I can! But if it is a warped rotor I’m not getting them cut or anything. Just deal with it for a couple more months and get new rotors + pads!

I also went ahead and got some hub rings (aluminum) heard they’re better than the poly carb kind due to poly carbs melting. Not to say that’s it but figured it’s worth a shot. My aftermarket wheels don’t have them and it definitely doesn’t sit properly when the wheel is just sitting on lugs. It fixes a little but no way it can be 100% perfect even when torqued with that gap there. So I will see if that helps. Wheels are 73.1 and hub is 66.1 so I got the 73.1 to 66.1 should be here this weekend / Monday! If that doesn’t help. Then I’ll go into checking rotors / brake system more !
.
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