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-   -   Steering wheel vibration 70-80 mph help?! (http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/124933-steering-wheel-vibration-70-80-mph-help.html)

AstatenateZ 12-06-2017 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4oldcars (Post 3713060)
2 questions:
Have you run thru any deep water recently, as in deep enough to reach your rotors? It would have to be after getting the brakes really good and hot. That and braking like crazy and then parking it are the only easy way to warp rotors. They have to cool unevenly from damn near red for it to be a problem.
If you can (no clearance issues) have you tried running without the spacers to see if the problem goes away? Like you, I'm doubtful it's your problem, but anything you can totally eliminate is a plus.
Good luck!

Kirk B.

No! My cars way too low. I won’t drive it if it’s raining hard enough to flood. And I don’t drive hard in the rain my hatch area is gutted and with my camber and stance driving in the rain is sketchy enough lol but I have driven car (not too hard) then washed it. But I don’t think the brakes went from really hot to cold water. But I guess it’s possible.
But I have to admit I have driven it pretty hard and done some pretty tough braking and parked it. So it wouldn’t surprise me if they were warped. Again, I’ll try the bedding process but unsure if that’ll help if they’re truly warped. Just not sure how warped rotors would cause the judder while driving w/ NO brake pressure applied. But suppose it’s possible.

Yes I can pull front spacers off and check to see if it helps! To rule it completely out that was going to be my next thing on the list to rule out.

40 to 332 12-06-2017 03:29 PM

You mention that you have after-market 19" wheels ... but no hub rings. If all else fails, you may want to consider purchasing a set of hubcentric rings and then install the wheels with the rings in place and check for vibrations ... perhaps first with the spacers removed, and then with the spacers installed. Although not always necessary, the rings can help center the wheels during install. Also, I assume that you have the correct type of lug nuts for your wheels.

crazy4oldcars 12-06-2017 04:55 PM

Yeah, I don't think you could drive it spirited enough on the streets (without getting arrested ) to get them that hot. Maybe something like the Tail of the Dragon.
Not saying they may not be warped, just that it would more likely be a direct than something you did.
I'm just all caught up in this, like, "Enquiring minds want to know!". Lol.

Kirk B.

SouthArk370Z 12-06-2017 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AstatenateZ (Post 3713052)
... This just burns off the built up deposits correct?

Yes

Quote:

Originally Posted by AstatenateZ (Post 3713052)
Then why couldn’t I use a brake cleaner? Doesn’t properly clean off the burnt on deposits or what? ...

Brake cleaner is for removing oil and grease, not baked on deposits.

I've heard of people using sandpaper to get rid of the glaze but padding is easier (and more fun).

AstatenateZ 12-06-2017 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 to 332 (Post 3713069)
You mention that you have after-market 19" wheels ... but no hub rings. If all else fails, you may want to consider purchasing a set of hubcentric rings and then install the wheels with the rings in place and check for vibrations ... perhaps first with the spacers removed, and then with the spacers installed. Although not always necessary, the rings can help center the wheels during install. Also, I assume that you have the correct type of lug nuts for your wheels.

That was something else I thought of! Only thing I was thinking... was if it was hub rings it would do it with or without the HC spacers. And I don't remember my car juddering a month ago when I installed spacers or before. Just within the last couple weeks. Seeing as how the spacers are hub centric 66.1 just like the OEM Nissan hub (bore). But for like $10 a set, it wouldn’t hurt to try. Most I can rule out right now is wheels are balanced issue, struts / coil overs check out fine and alignment is good since it was done maybe a month ago and I've not hit any big bumps or done anything to knock it out of whack. I did brake bedding process and will report back tomorrow to see if braking judder has gone away, got better / worse ! Then I’ll pull spacers off front , see if that helps. Maybe try the hub rings see if it works. And if all that doesn’t work I’m gonna get new rotors in a few months and go over braking system, stuck pads, kinked brake lines something. That's about all I know of honestly... :(

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4oldcars (Post 3713095)
Yeah, I don't think you could drive it spirited enough on the streets (without getting arrested ) to get them that hot. Maybe something like the Tail of the Dragon.
Not saying they may not be warped, just that it would more likely be a direct than something you did.
I'm just all caught up in this, like, "Enquiring minds want to know!". Lol.

Kirk B.

I agree! I’ve never had warped rotors. Not even on my sport bikes. And that thing I got way faster on and slowed down a lot faster too. So :tup: The Z should be good but idk. I’m not gonna rule out warped rotors just yet. I did do the 60-10 , 5 Times though! Read my below post to @SouthArk!

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 3713098)
Yes


Brake cleaner is for removing oil and grease, not baked on deposits.

I've heard of people using sandpaper to get rid of the glaze but padding is easier (and more fun).


Gotcha! Well okay I did about 5 , 60-10mph brakes on the last one they started to skip while stopping, like ABS was about to kick in so I stopped, got on interstate and drove home 10 or so mins. I had to touch my brakes lightly a couple times but NEVER completely stopped and let the pads sit on rotor. Even when I got home I coasted in driveway and pulled e-brake. I put my hand to rotor on the cooling fin area and it was warm but cool enough to touch so I’m assuming it got it’s good 60-10mph brakes in and properly cooled. So we shall see tomorrow if judder while braking has stopped, got better / worse, etc. Vibration from 65-80 are still there after bedding though just for the record.

Rusty 12-06-2017 11:09 PM

Get your front rotors cut. Rotors do warp. Put a dial indicator on them and watch the runout. :shakes head: You already tried to bed the pads and that didn't work.

The vibrations that you are feeling that come and go is from the road surface. Different type of surfaces will produce different vibrations. Mine on grooved concrete is terrible. Smooth concrete is better. Fresh blacktop is great.

SouthArk370Z 12-07-2017 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AstatenateZ (Post 3713130)
... Vibration from 65-80 are still there after bedding though just for the record.

Maybe it isn't rotor deposits. It's a common cause of vibration but not the only one. If you still think a rotor may be warped, check run-out, as per Rusty.

AstatenateZ 12-07-2017 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3713204)
Get your front rotors cut. Rotors do warp. Put a dial indicator on them and watch the runout. :shakes head: You already tried to bed the pads and that didn't work.

The vibrations that you are feeling that come and go is from the road surface. Different type of surfaces will produce different vibrations. Mine on grooved concrete is terrible. Smooth concrete is better. Fresh blacktop is great.

But it didn’t do it before, same roads / interstate I drive everyday to / from work. Only started doing it recently.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 3713244)
Maybe it isn't rotor deposits. It's a common cause of vibration but not the only one. If you still think a rotor may be warped, check run-out, as per Rusty.

I will check run-out when I can! But if it is a warped rotor I’m not getting them cut or anything. Just deal with it for a couple more months and get new rotors + pads!

I also went ahead and got some hub rings (aluminum) heard they’re better than the poly carb kind due to poly carbs melting. Not to say that’s it but figured it’s worth a shot. My aftermarket wheels don’t have them and it definitely doesn’t sit properly when the wheel is just sitting on lugs. It fixes a little but no way it can be 100% perfect even when torqued with that gap there. So I will see if that helps. Wheels are 73.1 and hub is 66.1 so I got the 73.1 to 66.1 should be here this weekend / Monday! If that doesn’t help. Then I’ll go into checking rotors / brake system more !

SouthArk370Z 12-07-2017 08:10 AM

Sounds like you are checking out all the usual suspects and have a pretty good plan. Keep us updated, please.

Rusty 12-07-2017 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AstatenateZ (Post 3713258)
But it didn’t do it before, same roads / interstate I drive everyday to / from work. Only started doing it recently.

As your tires wear. It will change the vibration too. Look at how your tires are wearing. When my front tires start to wear down. They will change the vibration. And I know I will have to change front tires soon.



I will check run-out when I can! But if it is a warped rotor I’m not getting them cut or anything. Just deal with it for a couple more months and get new rotors + pads!

I also went ahead and got some hub rings (aluminum) heard they’re better than the poly carb kind due to poly carbs melting. Not to say that’s it but figured it’s worth a shot. My aftermarket wheels don’t have them and it definitely doesn’t sit properly when the wheel is just sitting on lugs. It fixes a little but no way it can be 100% perfect even when torqued with that gap there. So I will see if that helps. Wheels are 73.1 and hub is 66.1 so I got the 73.1 to 66.1 should be here this weekend / Monday! If that doesn’t help. Then I’ll go into checking rotors / brake system more !

.

Liquid_G 12-07-2017 11:33 AM

Maybe I'm grasping at straws here. But could this be a wheel bearing issue? Spacers i've heard put extra stress on wheel bearings. Don't know if thats actually true or not but was one of the downsides i've always heard mentioned.
Since you've had wheels balanced already, and since this happening on braking and off braking (just at speed) Wondering if it could be bearing play?

AstatenateZ 12-07-2017 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Liquid_G (Post 3713338)
Maybe I'm grasping at straws here. But could this be a wheel bearing issue? Spacers i've heard put extra stress on wheel bearings. Don't know if thats actually true or not but was one of the downsides i've always heard mentioned.
Since you've had wheels balanced already, and since this happening on braking and off braking (just at speed) Wondering if it could be bearing play?

Thought of that but no weird noises or humming like when wheel bearings go bad! That’s true right? There’s normally a humming noise and weird vibration that starts at a lower speed that just the 65-85mph zone I’m feeling. I wanna say my moms car had a bad wheel bearing / hub at one point and I drove it. Like anything about 35mph and it had a vibration and got worse as you went faster. Also a loud humming noise that also got worse as speed increased.

AstatenateZ 12-10-2017 06:48 PM

UPDATE:

Got aluminum hub rings installed on wheels. No more vibration from 65-80. No more vibrations at all. 40, 65, 85 , 100+ it’s gone! Not sure why it did it all of a sudden I never had hub rings with or without my spacers. Just came up this past couple weeks or maybe i didn’t notice it. Who knows. But the vibration is gone. I mean normal road vibrations just from crappy roads. That’s all. Vibration is still there when I brake at higher speeds so I will be doing new rotors and pads in spring! But thanks guys!

SouthArk370Z 12-10-2017 07:27 PM

Glad to hear you got it fixed and thanks for the update.

crazy4oldcars 12-10-2017 08:30 PM

Good deal! Glad we were able to fix it for you! (Tongue-in-cheek attempt at humor, lol)
Mine threw a weight the other week, and I had to get them rebalanced. It's annoying to not be able to use the car's full potential.

Kirk B.


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