Wheel too outside HELP!

Sharpinou

Well...tks for all your replies. ..I will not put a grinder in that for sure but I will try to put load on my spring first before tightening everything up or have +32 in front. Tks Kenchan for your tips...should have read your post

kenchan

so u have swifts already installed? they will settle a little bit after driving around. easiest solution for u would be to get rear spacers to match the aggressiveness of the front after u drive it around a few hundred miles.

some folks like da poked look, u might get use to it too..

ET32 for front is if ur ride is stock. the shorter sidewalls on ur 20's pronounce the wheel gap too..

ive found budget wheels's offsets are pretty inaccurate.. ur wheel might say ET20, it could be as low as ET10-12.. especially if ure saying the rear looks perfect lowered at ET27.. ET27 would be very conservative for a lowered ride with 10.5".

OptionZero

oh my god don't put a ****'n 19x9 +32 in the front of a Z

keep the wheels sell your Z

but a TSX or something

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kenchan

ure iggylist quality. GL to u

Sharpinou

Yes I have swifts already installed but I have not drive my car yet. There is too.much rock and snow outside at the moment so I will get her out only april 1st. I will drive it and get it aligned but is it a good solution like Josh said to get the load on the suspensions before tightening everything up? How im I supposed to tight thoses bolts with the wheel in place ?

Tks for your tips kenchan Really appreciated.

Sharpinou

No I don't have some yet. Im stock camber and freshly dropped on swifts.

JARblue

IINM, you should actually wait to get it aligned until after you drive it around a bit and the suspension has a chance to settle.

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Sharpinou

Thats what Im gonna do. Tks It's hard to wait another 15days

Volk Z

Let's see pics to see the wheels...

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kenchan

yah, dont give ur hopes up yet. new springs take a little driving to set in. usually when i swap springs i drive it for about 2 weeks (few hundred miles) before going in for an alignment unless it's so off making it uncomfortable to drive. for those occasions i take my car in twice.

when u do suspension installs it is always a good idea to load the arms before you tighten the fasteners. what i do is load up the arm using a hydraulic jack under the knuckle (front)/spring carrier cup (rear), and raise it enough the suspension has preload. then tighten all fasteners to spec.

but it usually doesnt make much of a difference as far as ride height after install unless you completely botched the install somehow.

take a pict and post.

Sharpinou

Ok Tks Yeah I'm an aircraft mecanic so I don't know a lot about cars mecanics but I followed the maintenance manual for the torques of the Z... but I know much more about aircrafts.

I have read a lot before buying and about Dallaz blue 370z, want to do the same setup but instead of vossen cv3r use Stance sc5,

[Official] 370z wheel fitment guide (pics/specs) only

same dimensions, 20x9 20x10.5, same offsets +20 front but got +27 in rear instead of +15 so wanna put a 10mm spacer, same drop but with swifts insteads of coilovers, 1 to 1.2in drop. Stock camber

Tell me if i'm wrong but I should have something like him? But I don't have driven the car yet and not aligned.

Tks Kenchan


Pictures incomming...

kenchan

aircraft mechanic, cool.

dallaz's car is much lower dan ur swifts. he apparently runs coilovers so he can gain more neg camber making the wheel look more tucked inward.

u can achieve something similar if u get a-arms and dial in more neg camber up front or run coilovers instead. but post up a pict of ur ride so dat we can gauge wat we are dealing with here.

kenchan

btw, the 10mm spacers for da rear.. if u plan on buying bolt-on type spacers be sure ur wheels have voids between the lug holes. ur factory studs will protrude past da spacers so ur wheels will have to have those voids.. otherwise da disc of the wheel will hit ur factory studs and make it uninstallable on ur car...well unless u cut the factory studs shorter..

if u dont have voids u can get the stud replacement type spacers.

Sharpinou

Hi there

Now i see...comparing my pictures of my Z to his. Its muuch lower... :S I have done what you told me, reinstalled everything with a load on a spring, torque everything as per manual. It changes a little bit. Here the results.

Here some pics of my Z and on the picture I have a 5mm spacer on the rear. Can't put a 10mm with the factory studs but 5mm is perfect for my taste. If I can have this front a little bit inside the fender that will be great or put a 10mm on the rear...or A-arm? What do you think?

3rd picture is the kind of spacer I have on the car right now

Tks!

Attached Images

	20170314_230507.jpg (375.3 KB, 35 views)
	20170314_230523.jpg (373.1 KB, 42 views)
	spacer.jpeg (15.3 KB, 5 views)

Volk Z

An A-arm is 300 minimum and it's inferior to the oem. SPL arms are the only superior and they are 800 bucks...
Spacer is like 80 bucks...

Also to run neg camber with your high offsets is odd to me since you are not in aggressive offsets.
Run a spacer in the rear to even it out.

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