45mm spacer question
 

Going with a 45mm spacer. The kits legit but I'm not sure I trust the hardware as much as ARP. ARP makes 3" 190,000psi studs I can put in the bolt on spacer but I'm not finding anything better than OEM for the hub. I could obviously get 10 ARP's for each side but the stud ones will be to long and hit the back of the wheel. I need a OEM length stud or slightly longer but one with the strength of ARP. Anyone know of any? Z1 has 10-20mm longer new for the hub for non bolt on spacers but they don't give any info how good they are or how they made or of what material.

I wonder how they test the 190,000 of PSI to this things.

Idk but with ARP making head studs that everyone in the world uses on almost every race car in the world, I'd trust them at that PSI.

I have 10mm/20mm Z1 studs. I didn't have any install problems. They seem to be fine, but, I'm not running 45mm spacers ether

Tried asking jon about them, no word yet.

Ok so the spacers came from England in only 2 days! I think im gonna try as is. Still no idea how strong the oem studs are but at least i know what the driftworks studs are now. They are 10.9 grade which is stronger than grade 8. Z1 doesn't even list their grade so...

Also the spacer being 25mm longer than Z1 are only 1.5lbs heavier. Thats not bad since i bought Z1 rear rotors which are 5lbs lighter than OEM. So from where i was to where ill be going, my rear rotational weight will drop 1.3lbs. Or another way i look at it is my rear will be 0.9lbs heavier than if i ran no spacers at all and just used the 10.5 +15 RPF1 by its self.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psacrigfpx.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscaj0mvfo.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psojqjotd1.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pstxjixr54.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psbsbv9itt.jpg

Ok had to use ARP studs anyways. The Z1 rotors (by the way true weight was 15.04lbs and OEM was 19.42lbs so 4.38lbs diff) I believe are thicker than the OEM rotors and I was only getting about half the treads on the spacer nuts. Now that probably still coulda been ok because the driftworks nuts are double the length of the Z1 spacer nuts. So either way it still shoulda had enough clamp force but I didn't want to risk it.

As for the ARP studs I didn't get what Z1 sells. Those are 12x1.25 thread but way to long. Even though they were going through the hub, rotor and 45mm spacer it still was gonna hit the back of the wheel. So I went with a 12x1.50 thread which was like 1/2" shorter. Of course I got 10 new 12x1.50 acorn nuts and even though there's poke still with these, they don't hit the deep dish of the back of the wheel.


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psqhcdqejb.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pszhdrsqtv.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pssrvosgyp.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psuy5h38i3.jpg

Not trying to be nosey or rude and I'm no mechanic or track junkie, but I've seen some terrifying videos of track cars with spacers. (Probably cheap setups.) I also don't know your situation, but if the car is mainly used for the track shouldn't you just get a different wheel and offset? :confused:

Only shitty spacers break, and his setup is fine, he can rotate his wheels front to back

997 GT3 comes with spacers from the factory (although not 45mm). Will be fine with quality parts + correct installation.

What they said.

The spacers are 45mm thick and hubcentric. Even if they weren't a 6000 grade of aluminium the chances of it braking are slim to non. And since its hub centric all the weights on the hub, not the studs. This really isnt any different then buying a wheel in 10.5" with a -30 offset. And like DE said i can rotate all 4 wheels sinse the fronts a 10.5 +15 too.

The new studs from ARP are 190,000 psi tensile strength. You arent going to get better than that. The 10.9 bolts in the spacers are 150,000 psi. I might change those if i see a problem and get new open lugs since ARP are longer but 10.9 is some pretty serious stuff. And again its all hub centric so the studs only holding the wheel on the spacer. Not holding the load of the car up.

As for cars breaking that youre seen...you CANNOT run different lugs. Lugs need to be steel! These cheap color aluminium or "titanium" ones that cost a couple hundred, no thanks!! Having softer or two different metals holding on each other is the problem. They heat up and expand and different temps. Whether its said in the vids or not i can guarantee different metal lugs where used. That or the studs were so used and over tightened that they lost a good hold.

The spacers have steel lugs, red locktight, and torqued to 100ftlbs. The black steel lugs and holding the wheel down are 90ftlbs. I believe it'll all be ok.