Eibach Wheel Spacers CZP Wheel Spacers Kics Wheel Spacers Ichiba Wheel Spacers I have heard things like hubcentric, and the Ichiba come in two types, aluminum and bolt on aluminum.
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10-25-2009, 04:21 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Spacer options
Eibach Wheel Spacers
CZP Wheel Spacers Kics Wheel Spacers Ichiba Wheel Spacers I have heard things like hubcentric, and the Ichiba come in two types, aluminum and bolt on aluminum. Note: the Links are just for reference, just grabbed the first vendor that popped up on the search. These seem to be all the spacers for the 370z so far, I am looking for what is my best option. Looking for a solid unit for street but with some aggressive driving, no tracking currently. I remember a thread about people talking about the spacer making a noise/clicking or rattling. Besides the spacers will there be anything else I need to? I am hoping this is a simple pop off the current wheels/tires and add these and then pop my wheels/tires back on, will probably get an alignment just to make sure everything is still good. Thanks.
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theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram Last edited by theDreamer; 10-25-2009 at 04:28 PM. |
10-25-2009, 06:15 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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if you don't get the bolt on type, you need longer studs also. I have found that with the ichibas in 15mm, my front balance is way off. The centering rings don't seem to protrude enough into the wheel to actually center it perfectly, and neither does our lugnut design help.
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10-25-2009, 06:23 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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My personal preference is to only use hubcentric spacers. People say they are not needed. I have seen many folks run w/o hubcentric w/o issues. But I have seen rims destroyed when installed incorrectly. I just like the added comfort the hubcentric spacers provide.
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10-25-2009, 06:44 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the info guys, I have read people mention you should use hubcentric only, will look through them all.
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10-25-2009, 08:34 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Go with the H&R spacers. Paul, a fellow 370Z owner and member here, at AE Performance, can get them for you. They are hubcentric, and unlike the Ichiba, the "hub" section is a part of the spacer, machined as one piece......... the Ichibas are two piece. I bought them and they are of high quality. John
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10-26-2009, 12:38 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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ya +1 for H&R, I will never run wheels without being hubcentric.
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10-26-2009, 09:33 AM | #8 (permalink) | |
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I've got the same ones on my car (front and back), and zero balance issues (work wheels). You're them with stock wheels? The Ichiba ones are 1 piece, not 2 piece (not sure where that came from) and are hubcentric as well This is the Ichiba Type 1 (comes in 5, 10, 15 and 20mm). Longer studs are included on the 10-20mm. I run these on my own car (actually on 2 of our Z's here). They are 1 piece, CNC'd aluminum/magnesium alloy - just like all the other spacers out there are. These come with longer studs, so you're old ones come out, and the new, longer studs go in. This is the Ichiba Type 2 - they bolt on to the factory hub. Again, 1 piece CNC'd aluminum/magnesium alloy. Comes in 15, 20 and 25mm sizes. Last edited by Z1Performance; 10-26-2009 at 09:39 AM. |
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10-26-2009, 12:34 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect.
I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer. I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs.
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10-26-2009, 06:12 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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If you are using longer studs without the spacers you will need extended lugs, or open lugs. You might just be finding an anomoly with the 350Z Rays wheels, not sure. Perhaps take them to a machinist and see if you can increase the hub depth. Won't do any damage to the wheel so long as there is sufficient meat there, and you may eliminate the issue altogether. I've never tried using them on those. I know we use them on my car (Work VS-TX), and one of our other Z's here (on a set of Fikse's and a set of Volks) and they work flawlessly, no vibration, etc Any wheel running the type 2 needs the extra holes in the back, or unfortunately they won't fit - you would need to use the type 1's for that scenario |
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10-26-2009, 06:58 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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I think the reason you guys aren't having problems, is that you are using tapered lug nuts with those wheels. The stock wheels and the Nismos that I have use those shank lugs, which don't have any self centering abilities like tapered lugs. However, I use the tapered lugs with my track wheels, and I still have vibration, just not as bad.
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10-26-2009, 06:58 PM | #12 (permalink) | |
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John
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10-26-2009, 07:04 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
ichibas are approx 8mm and the slight taper in the wheel hub would prefer about 13mm.
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10-26-2009, 07:37 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Yes, BRB. It appears to be about 11MM. I say "about" because my ruler has a little extra at the beginning past the "zero" point.
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Time is a companion, who goes with us on the journey, and reminds us to cherish every moment............ because it will never come again Last edited by antennahead; 10-26-2009 at 07:45 PM. |
10-26-2009, 07:51 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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I see what you mean John, I misunderstood what you were referring to
It won't make any difference as you said, as the hubring does not bear any load - it's merely there to square the wheel against the hub Last edited by Z1Performance; 10-26-2009 at 07:55 PM. |
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