Spacer options

theDreamer · 10-25-2009, 04:21 PM

Eibach Wheel Spacers

CZP Wheel Spacers

Kics Wheel Spacers

Ichiba Wheel Spacers

I have heard things like hubcentric, and the Ichiba come in two types, aluminum and bolt on aluminum.

Note: the Links are just for reference, just grabbed the first vendor that popped up on the search.
These seem to be all the spacers for the 370z so far, I am looking for what is my best option. Looking for a solid unit for street but with some aggressive driving, no tracking currently. I remember a thread about people talking about the spacer making a noise/clicking or rattling. Besides the spacers will there be anything else I need to? I am hoping this is a simple pop off the current wheels/tires and add these and then pop my wheels/tires back on, will probably get an alignment just to make sure everything is still good.

Thanks.

Mike · 10-25-2009, 06:15 PM

if you don't get the bolt on type, you need longer studs also. I have found that with the ichibas in 15mm, my front balance is way off. The centering rings don't seem to protrude enough into the wheel to actually center it perfectly, and neither does our lugnut design help.

Island_370 · 10-25-2009, 06:23 PM

My personal preference is to only use hubcentric spacers. People say they are not needed. I have seen many folks run w/o hubcentric w/o issues. But I have seen rims destroyed when installed incorrectly. I just like the added comfort the hubcentric spacers provide.

theDreamer · 10-25-2009, 06:44 PM

Thanks for the info guys, I have read people mention you should use hubcentric only, will look through them all.

nogoodname · 10-25-2009, 07:28 PM

there's H&R spacers too

antennahead · 10-25-2009, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Eibach Wheel Spacers

CZP Wheel Spacers

Kics Wheel Spacers

Ichiba Wheel Spacers

I have heard things like hubcentric, and the Ichiba come in two types, aluminum and bolt on aluminum.

Note: the Links are just for reference, just grabbed the first vendor that popped up on the search.
These seem to be all the spacers for the 370z so far, I am looking for what is my best option. Looking for a solid unit for street but with some aggressive driving, no tracking currently. I remember a thread about people talking about the spacer making a noise/clicking or rattling. Besides the spacers will there be anything else I need to? I am hoping this is a simple pop off the current wheels/tires and add these and then pop my wheels/tires back on, will probably get an alignment just to make sure everything is still good.

Thanks.

Go with the H&R spacers. Paul, a fellow 370Z owner and member here, at AE Performance, can get them for you. They are hubcentric, and unlike the Ichiba, the "hub" section is a part of the spacer, machined as one piece......... the Ichibas are two piece. I bought them and they are of high quality.

John

DannyGT · 10-26-2009, 12:38 AM

ya +1 for H&R, I will never run wheels without being hubcentric.

Z1Performance · 10-26-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

if you don't get the bolt on type, you need longer studs also. I have found that with the ichibas in 15mm, my front balance is way off. The centering rings don't seem to protrude enough into the wheel to actually center it perfectly, and neither does our lugnut design help.

I've got the same ones on my car (front and back), and zero balance issues (work wheels). You're them with stock wheels?

The Ichiba ones are 1 piece, not 2 piece (not sure where that came from) and are hubcentric as well

This is the Ichiba Type 1 (comes in 5, 10, 15 and 20mm). Longer studs are included on the 10-20mm. I run these on my own car (actually on 2 of our Z's here). They are 1 piece, CNC'd aluminum/magnesium alloy - just like all the other spacers out there are. These come with longer studs, so you're old ones come out, and the new, longer studs go in.

This is the Ichiba Type 2 - they bolt on to the factory hub. Again, 1 piece CNC'd aluminum/magnesium alloy. Comes in 15, 20 and 25mm sizes.

Mike · 10-26-2009, 12:34 PM

I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect.

I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer.

I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs.

Z1Performance · 10-26-2009, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect.

I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer.

I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs.

On every spacer known to man the hubring is separate from the spacer

You can't make it 1 piece. The hub on the car is 66.1mm. The lip you see on the spacer is 66.1mm. Most aftermarket wheels have a hub bore of 73.1mm. The hubcentric spacer is used to take up that difference between 73.1 and 66.1.

If you are using longer studs without the spacers you will need extended lugs, or open lugs.

You might just be finding an anomoly with the 350Z Rays wheels, not sure. Perhaps take them to a machinist and see if you can increase the hub depth. Won't do any damage to the wheel so long as there is sufficient meat there, and you may eliminate the issue altogether. I've never tried using them on those. I know we use them on my car (Work VS-TX), and one of our other Z's here (on a set of Fikse's and a set of Volks) and they work flawlessly, no vibration, etc

Any wheel running the type 2 needs the extra holes in the back, or unfortunately they won't fit - you would need to use the type 1's for that scenario

Mike · 10-26-2009, 06:58 PM

I think the reason you guys aren't having problems, is that you are using tapered lug nuts with those wheels. The stock wheels and the Nismos that I have use those shank lugs, which don't have any self centering abilities like tapered lugs. However, I use the tapered lugs with my track wheels, and I still have vibration, just not as bad.

antennahead · 10-26-2009, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z1Performance

On every spacer known to man the hubring is separate from the spacer

You can't make it 1 piece. The hub on the car is 66.1mm. The lip you see on the spacer is 66.1mm. Most aftermarket wheels have a hub bore of 73.1mm. The hubcentric spacer is used to take up that difference between 73.1 and 66.1.

If you are using longer studs without the spacers you will need extended lugs, or open lugs.

You might just be finding an anomoly with the 350Z Rays wheels, not sure. Perhaps take them to a machinist and see if you can increase the hub depth. Won't do any damage to the wheel so long as there is sufficient meat there, and you may eliminate the issue altogether. I've never tried using them on those. I know we use them on my car (Work VS-TX), and one of our other Z's here (on a set of Fikse's and a set of Volks) and they work flawlessly, no vibration, etc

Any wheel running the type 2 needs the extra holes in the back, or unfortunately they won't fit - you would need to use the type 1's for that scenario

That's funny, I have the H&R spacers in my hand, they haven't been mounted on the car yet, and the hubring is a part of the spacer, machined as one piece, so apparantly everyone else is doing the hubring as a separate piece, except H&R. I'm not stating that a two piece would perform differently, but I opted for the one piece H&Rs.

John

Mike · 10-26-2009, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antennahead

That's funny, I have the H&R spacers in my hand, they haven't been mounted on the car yet, and the hubring is a part of the spacer, machined as one piece, so apparantly everyone else is doing the hubring as a separate piece, except H&R. I'm not stating that a two piece would perform differently, but I opted for the one piece H&Rs.

John

can you measure how far the hub ring extends from the spacer into the wheel for me?

ichibas are approx 8mm and the slight taper in the wheel hub would prefer about 13mm.

antennahead · 10-26-2009, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

can you measure how far the hub ring extends from the spacer into the wheel for me?

ichibas are approx 8mm and the slight taper in the wheel hub would prefer about 13mm.

Yes, BRB. It appears to be about 11MM. I say "about" because my ruler has a little extra at the beginning past the "zero" point.

Z1Performance · 10-26-2009, 07:51 PM

I see what you mean John, I misunderstood what you were referring to

It won't make any difference as you said, as the hubring does not bear any load - it's merely there to square the wheel against the hub

10-25-2009, 04:21 PM	#1 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Spacer options Eibach Wheel Spacers CZP Wheel Spacers Kics Wheel Spacers Ichiba Wheel Spacers I have heard things like hubcentric, and the Ichiba come in two types, aluminum and bolt on aluminum. Note: the Links are just for reference, just grabbed the first vendor that popped up on the search. These seem to be all the spacers for the 370z so far, I am looking for what is my best option. Looking for a solid unit for street but with some aggressive driving, no tracking currently. I remember a thread about people talking about the spacer making a noise/clicking or rattling. Besides the spacers will there be anything else I need to? I am hoping this is a simple pop off the current wheels/tires and add these and then pop my wheels/tires back on, will probably get an alignment just to make sure everything is still good. Thanks. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram Last edited by theDreamer; 10-25-2009 at 04:28 PM.

10-25-2009, 06:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	if you don't get the bolt on type, you need longer studs also. I have found that with the ichibas in 15mm, my front balance is way off. The centering rings don't seem to protrude enough into the wheel to actually center it perfectly, and neither does our lugnut design help. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

10-25-2009, 06:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
Island_370 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 228 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z SR M6 Rep Power: 16	My personal preference is to only use hubcentric spacers. People say they are not needed. I have seen many folks run w/o hubcentric w/o issues. But I have seen rims destroyed when installed incorrectly. I just like the added comfort the hubcentric spacers provide. __________________ Autobahn Country Club (North and South Tracks), Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, Gingerman, Mid-Ohio, Putnam Park, Road America, Sears Point, Thunderhill, VIR and "The Ring"

10-25-2009, 06:44 PM	#4 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Thanks for the info guys, I have read people mention you should use hubcentric only, will look through them all. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

10-26-2009, 12:38 AM	#7 (permalink)
DannyGT Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Jersey Posts: 919 Drives: 370Z (SOLD) Rep Power: 279	ya +1 for H&R, I will never run wheels without being hubcentric. __________________ Performance GTM Stage 1 SC, GTM Res.Test Pipes, Invidia Gemini Exhaust, GTM HD Oil Cooler Wheels & Suspension AME Tracer TM02's 19x9.5F 19x10.5R w/ 265x35F & 305x30R, Hotchkis Sways, BC (BR) Racing Coilovers (Car Sold)

10-25-2009, 07:28 PM	#5 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1764	there's H&R spacers too

10-26-2009, 12:34 PM	#9 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	I have Nismo Rays wheels from the accessory catalog, but they are stock spec. With the longer studs, I can't run my street wheels without spacers on front, but my track wheels (350Z Rays) use open lug nuts, and with the spacers I get vibration, without I don't. I think if the spacer ring went just 2-3 mm deeper into the wheel hub, they would be perfect. I think by 2 piece, he meant that the hubcentric ring is a different piece than the actual spacer. I have no problems with my 25mm rear spacers, but when I ran 20mm ones, the original wheel studs protruded past the spacer and the wheels wouldn't go on because they don't have relief holes on the back side in the proper location to clear the protruding studs. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968 Last edited by Mike; 10-26-2009 at 12:36 PM.

10-26-2009, 06:58 PM	#11 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	I think the reason you guys aren't having problems, is that you are using tapered lug nuts with those wheels. The stock wheels and the Nismos that I have use those shank lugs, which don't have any self centering abilities like tapered lugs. However, I use the tapered lugs with my track wheels, and I still have vibration, just not as bad. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

10-26-2009, 07:51 PM	#15 (permalink)
Z1Performance Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: St. James, NY Posts: 237 Drives: 350Z Rep Power: 16	I see what you mean John, I misunderstood what you were referring to It won't make any difference as you said, as the hubring does not bear any load - it's merely there to square the wheel against the hub Last edited by Z1Performance; 10-26-2009 at 07:55 PM.

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