June, My 12' 370Z
 

What's going on everyone!

I'm born and raised from NorCal, but I've been stationed at a few parts of the US, right now I'm in the Las Vegas area.

I've already made a intro thread with a little history about me and my past cars (http://www.the370z.com/new-370z-owne...ner-ca-nv.html), so this one's going to go solely towards all the maintenance and mods that I do.

So far......

June:
Bought brand new 9JUN13, 71 miles

Mod List:
Tint
Pioneer double din + steering control and ipod integration
Invidia Gemini CBE
K&N Typhoon intakes
20MM adapters all 4 corners


And a few pictures:
On the way back from Ca back to Las Vegas
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Installed the cleanest looking double din I could find, mainly needed it to clear up the "static" from the Aux port, be able to select my music easily without mounting an iPod on the dash, and to be able to connect my iPhone to watch things.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...66099997_n.jpg

Ordered the K&N typhoon, brand new without the box off eBay for $185, nearly half off, figured why not. Not sure on negatives or positives, but the stock units look wimpy.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...51749339_n.jpg

During the CBE install..
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...98743385_n.jpg

Pics of the titanium tips.
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Sorry for the iPhone pics, I'll take some HD photos once I put the 20mm adapters on.

some HD photos...

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Few updates...

Maintenance:
3250 miles - Oil change and dealer service

Mod List:
Carbon Tint: 5% rear and sides, 30% front window and windshield strip
Pioneer double din + steering control and ipod integration
Invidia Gemini CBE
K&N Typhoon intakes
H&R 20MM adapters rear
H&R 25MM adapters front
Painted and CF wrapped handles
Aluminum Illuminated kick plates
GTR push start button
Evo-R rear fog light kit + flash relay microprocessor (wired for brakes only, relay setting: 3 quick flash, then solid)
Double Stitched Leather Shift boot

On the way:
GTR shift selector
SRPRacing CNC Aluminum 3 Piece Pedals

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Nice mods. How did you get the shift boot on the auto?

^^^^^ this=Love! :yum:

wired up the fog light with a flash relay microprocessor as a 4th brake light... here are pics and vids:

https://www.facebook.com/video/embed...01492993797359

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...51119720_n.jpg

the auto gear box cover pops off with 4 tabs. i then used 6 self tapping screws to screw into the boot cover, then used a die grinder to cut off and smooth the ends of the screws.. much easier mod if you buy the manual shift boot cover, simple plug and play, i didn't wanna spend the $50+ nor did i want to wait.

these aren't my photos..

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...3/IMG_0126.jpg

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...3/IMG_0127.jpg

full thread here: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...automatic.html

I'm partial to black Z's, looking good. I'll have to check her out when I get home soon

Ah i see now, it looks really good! Going to looks very cool with the gtr knob on place.

word.. maybe i'll hit up the meets or something..? are you military? deployed? or on vacation perhaps?

thanks... yeah, i plan to wrap the top of the GTR selector.. here is a photo, still waiting for it in the mail. apparently the dude is military in italy.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ps657093b7.jpg

Mil, Army Guard... to make it more confusing, I'm deployed as a Civilian Contractor right now :tup:

That thing looks bad *** man, I wonder if it'll fit on a manual shifter I'd get one as well.

ah i see, sounds about right, i'm active duty air force myself.. seems to be a lot of those civ contract opportunities in las vegas. i haven't really heard of it else where. you in bagram, ballad, kandahar?

i dont think it will. the auto trans knobs slip on and then clips hold them in place, where as a manual will just be a twist on.

Leatherneck. Contracted with Telecommunications Inc. Out of their ATL office

ah i see. definitely let me know when you get back, we'll hit the car meets.

super shitty grainy photo, but here's the shift boot and GTR knob.

https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/h...83884853_n.jpg

Looks really cool.

thanks..

awaiting my SRP pedals.... i think UPS lost my package.. it's been "Out For Delivery" for that last 3 days..

SRP pedals came in on friday. i must say, they have out standing customer service; Brian @ SRP Racing is a good guy.

i've officially finished all the little stuff on the Z, main focus is going to be KW V3s and a twin turbo kit, possibly a stealth 10" sub when i find some time to research the choices out there.

some updated photos.

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Looking sharp bro. A ttkit sounds like a good plan!

found a zenclosure box brand new for cheap, $80 off craigslist... picked up the 12" sub, amp, and wire kit for $275 with my bestbuy rewardzone card.... about 3-4 hours of careful labor, i slapped it all in, all wires tucked and hidden and it sounds nice.

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my next project will probably be blacking out the headlight housings... any tips and any direction on which DIY is the best? my only concern is properly sealing it back up so condensation doesn't start forming.... if it looks doable, i'll do it myself, since $400-600 seems a bit steep, plus not having headlights for up to 2 weeks will be a bummer.

reviving this dead legacy thread..... i splurged for my bday/xmas and bought some stuff from Z1...

can't wait for it all to get here.... :)

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waiting for some time off.... then its on like donkey kong..

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if anybody is into guns....... i bought a ruger SR556 and ordered a ton of goodies for it too...

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well.. i installed the brakes and accessories today..

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living room is getting more empty, Z is getting more pretty.. lol.

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brake job went smoothly.. brake duct job was a lot of work lol.. flushing the system for the RBF600 was a pain in the ***...... will be putting in the HFCs and suspension goodies on Wednesday (the start of my week off, cant wait!)

Looking good!

Angelo, thanks!

here's the video of the HFC comparison.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tLVISAlSKg

there were issues pulling the old cats off, then issues with the Z1 HFC (O2 bung snapped clean at the weld, easy free fix at a local weld shop).

coilovers go in this weekend.

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driver side bolt would not come out, finally came to the conclusion it was heat welded from the high heat of the header. the angle at the driver side of this bolt is insanely inconvenient and difficult too. this was on the driver side, passenger side came out with no issues. i had the trickiest time finding a way to get my die grinder to this bolt. once i chopped enough off, i slammed a 13MM socket onto it (real size of bolt head is 14mm), and then broke the nut loose easily after this.

*****FORGOT TO MENTION:

Z1 was very kind with the O2 bung issue, offered help and I'm pretty sure if I needed a replacement, they would've sent it free of charge. I didn't want to keep my car in-op, so I went ahead and got it welded really quick at a reputable welding shop.

wow, ovalling those camber/toe bolt holes in the rear were a PAIN IN THE ***!!!!! however, everything is together. time for an alignment!

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Looking great. Good job with the DIY. :tup:

thanks!

I got the dreaded SES light and P2A03 code. This code can point to a number of things; front O2 sensor took a **** (highly unlikely), dirty MAF, loose clamps on the intakes, and obviously if you've done a HFC/test pipe, all of that haha. I got rid of it without the expensive $500-900 tune.

I drove maybe 300 miles before my light came on, tried the ECU reset, and 80 miles later it popped back on. This alone told me something came undone through the 300 miles, the HFCs either heated and formed into a more comfortable position, and/or one or more of the nut/bolts slowly worked a little loose.

First things first, check your engine bay for anything you may have knocked loose while getting that annoying bolt/nut off and on for the install.

Now, jack the car up and follow these steps:
1. Pull the negative terminal off the battery, or do the Killer Instinct combo breaker cheat code with your pedal and start/stop button, whichever you prefer. This is to reset the ECU.
2. Tighten all the bolts you dealt with, this is to seal all "leaks"; 5 per side on the HFC/test pipe
3. Tighten the anti-foulers and block off bolts
4. Pull out the O2 sensor and stuff steel wool inside the anti-fouler and reinstall O2 sensors
5. Re-install the battery terminal, put the car down off the jack stands, and start the car and let it idle for 10-15 minutes to let the ECU re-learn cold starts

People will ask me, "why 10-15 minutes?"... ECUs start up on "cold" parameters, once the engine oil temp and coolant temp has reached it's "hot" parameters, it will readjust AFR and a number of other things; spark, timing, etc.. Generally, it will take 5-8 minutes to hit "hot" parameters, but you need the additional 2-7 minutes for the ECU to feel out the "hot" parameters as well.

hopefully this is helpful, before anyone takes the $500-900 plunge only to have the SES light come back on. simple fact is, if you or the shop did the job right, the SES light should NOT come on. if it is coming on, that means you have an exhaust leak after the header and before the CBE.. Steel wool is cheap and easy, i stuffed some in mine just to take the extra measure, usually isn't needed unless you're running test pipes.

Good to know. Thank you for the write up! :tup:

simple. she's done. if i do anymore, it'll be a custom dyno tune and maybe a few CF pieces. :)

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i spoke too soon!

P2A03 and P2A00 has popped up on my scanner. time to hop back under the car!

i finally said screw it and got under the car. i loosened all the bolts from the headers to cats to mid section exhaust, repositioned pipes and REALLLLLLY yanked hard down on the bolts this time, if I could fit a torque wrench down there, I would guess I torqued those suckers down to at least 70ftlb.

i tightened down all the O2 sensors.

i reset the ecu.

started her up and let her idle for 15mins while i got under the car and felt around for any leaks. none to be felt or heard.

i must say, the Z is MUCH quieter near the engine and in the cab, and the exhaust has a higher pitch note now. if i'm not mistaken, i had quite the exhaust leak. however, it is highly possible that I'll still pop codes for lean/rich, if this happens, I need a tune. as I've been doing quite a bit of research on this, with the in and out mods, it seems to be quite common that the stock ECU has issues calibrating itself with the correct AFR, so I may need a tune after all. I'll be looking out for an SES light.

Anybody know of Church tuning? they seem to be the only place in Las Vegas that's licensed to install Osiris UpRev.

fixed. put 300 miles on the odo since the fix... i'm almost 100% sure it was the 2 rear O2 sensors not being tightened all the way down OR the header to HFC not being tightened down first before i tightened everything else down.. with this, i followed the TS guide on the codes and cleaned my air filters and re-oiled them, sprayed my MAF sensors clean, and even ran Techron+ through the tank to clean out the injectors.. whatever the cause was, it's gone now.

lots of "omg help" threads out there on this code with NO solution, so if anyone knows anybody having this issue, link them my legacy thread.... i couldve avoided all of the headache if i followed these simple steps:

when installing HFC:
1. install O2 sensors with anti-foulers as tightly as you can without breaking anything
2. tighten additional bung holes (either the block off bolt or your AFR sensor)
3. position HFC onto header with gasket
4. tighten down the 3 bolts for HFC-header as tightly as you can (ie 50ftlb~, aka as tight as you can since you cant fit a torque wrench down there) to get proper seating of gasket
5. once your HFC is mounted, install your cat bracket, then your other piping, make sure you line everything up to the best of your ability. i used a channel lock to press the HFC and cat bracket together to give the O2 sensor more room, by tightening the bolt and pressing them together, the HFC moves away from the transmission (this may not be necessary if you have a J-shape anti-fouler or you run a manual trans)
6. once all piping is installed, give the O2 sensor and anti-fouler another tug to assure proper sealing

note: for people who have never used an anti-fouler (like me), you need to seal the O2 sensor against it (washers must seat against anti-fouler to seal). with the ones provided by Z1, they milled the inside of the anti-fouler just a little too small, so the O2 sensor fits in there VERY snug and makes a TON of squealing as you're tightening it down. no worries! just crank down until you properly seat the O2 sensor against the anti-fouler, if you don't, you'll catch a code.

if anybody needs any help or tips or photos, lmk and i'll hop under the car and snap a few photos.

:)

lastly: before i started snooping around for the issue, i was getting the code every 40-80 miles. VERY ANNOYING.

insanely dirty, but i snapped a few photos.

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just back to update... it's been well over 1000 miles now and the code is gone gone gone.