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Originally Posted by jwick do you have to remove the post cat O2 sensors to do this fix or can you just copy the cold start settings? You could try
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#1 (permalink) |
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You could try just the cold timing tables. The O2s were to just get it to idle and drive with both banks at the target afr. I found that if you keep the O2 plugged in one bank will always run richer than the other under closed loop.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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are we sure the ECU doesn't use the post cat O2s for anything? Last edited by jwick; 08-22-2014 at 07:08 AM. |
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I'm sure my tune is locked. I may just have to deal with it until I get a retune, or put up with the CEL.
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I'll let Mitch do some more testing to be sure this is the fix before I call R/T Tuning to see if they can patch my tune.
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I have idle surge between 13.5 and 15.5. this only happened after mechanic installed A2A kit I got second hand in Tampa, I doubled checked everything and it was in good condition. He said its normal to have idle surge since it has a bov but doesn't make sense since its before the maf lol
car 370z - has stillen sc , test pipes & catback exhaust, 9psi upgrade pulley, a2a kit , tial bov. I placed the csv log in a zip file on here , I have a vid but its pretty much the same as the other one on the thread its just hunting and idle bounces as well. I sprayed the maf's just to make sure they were clean, as well as carb cleaner around the engine to check for leaks but no joy.. can it be the o2 sensors are black after the tune since it was kicking out black soot in the beginning ?... any ideas ? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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You might want to start a new thread titled for your specific issue. Everyone discussing their issues, me included, on the thread has the BP turbo kit. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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I'm definitely clueless. just hoping somebody finds a fix. mine is starting to idle worse. I think it might be that O2 sensor going out. replacement should be here Wednesday
Last edited by jwick; 07-15-2014 at 07:57 AM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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So far so good, the lean idle has more or less stopped. But a new quirk has started which I think may be related to my changes. I been around these tuning programs long enough to realize that table names dont always mean what they suggest they should mean.
For example this car switches to that "COLD" fueling table at idle under some conditions (causing the lean spikes while idling). I would assume that that fueling table might actually not so much be a cold table as it is some sort of emissions modified table on the car. Either way changing the cold table with the main table values fixed pretty much everything. However now on hot starts it will take a second or more to crank up which also means that this car may be using this as a fueling table for starting. My solution to this is take the cranking region of the table and return it to where it was before and see if that gives me the best of two worlds. Either way this engine is still running strong and happy at 12-13PSI of boost.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Since my tuner is a sponsor here I'm totally just going to have him read this thread and see if he thinks it's worth tweaking anything during my next tuning session. Oh...and you are running 13psi? What power level is that? |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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No idea what power level that is, its enough to run 120mph in the 1/4. I believe before all this started I ran 110mph last year. I am going to try and get it on a dyno for a few baseline pulls just to have a number. It is at the limit of the fuel I have available up here without running any sort of additive. I did sacrifice some tq for some hp in my tuning. I can feel that much, but the hp makes it well worth the loss in lower end tq. Also when I say 13PSi that is my absolute peak, it settles around 12.5ish most of the time with 0 knock. Keep in mind we have 94 octane up here as well.
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