School me on turning FI car?

Chuck33079 · 03-12-2014, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Totally agree with the ss line. I just didn't want to spend the $$ on pads or roters yet. I want to use my stock until they die.

I was thinking of getting a new Rad too but I don't see many post of people getting aftermarket ones. which one and why should I get that one (other than it cools better). What about fan/shroud/ect??

Why do I need new hoses (although cheap compared to the rest of the things)? Don't the OEM work?

What is a EGT? How do boost controller work? All I know is that they open to let out "excess" pressure from the boost so that you maintain a specific and constant air pressure to the engine or do I have it mixed up? How do you control this?

I was thinking Jtranz to tune since he is local.

I'm not trying to be "cheap" per say, but $$ matters and I'm trying to see if FI is even plausible for the $$ I want to spend. I'm just being realistic. Sure I can afford it but do I want it "That bad," that is the question.

CSF is really the only option. GTM is having issues, and Mishimoto is ******** Chinese garbage not fit for a primered out civic with a fart can. That, and having your tuner adjust your fan duty cycle will likely take care of your temp issues. The lines will never wear out or bust like rubber, and they're a drop in the bucket as a percentage of the overall build cost and the install for the radiator lends itself to the swap.

EGT is exhaust gas temperature. Too hot and you can melt something. A lean condition raises EGTs. It's not necessary, but again, you can go as nuts with gauges as your wallet can handle.

You boost level will either be controlled by the wastegate spring, which is the least boost you can run, or the controller which lets you run more than the wastegate spring. It'll "fool" the wastegate into opening when you want it to, not when the spring tells it to. A smart man has their tuner set this and doesn't mess with it.

At the end of the day, if you're not DIYing this, a turbo Z is probably going to run you $15k between parts, labor and tuning. It's a pretty steep cost of entry. That being said, it's absolutely worth it. This car really takes to boost. The chassis has no issues handling the power. It feels like it should have come from the factory this way.

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