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Breather mods are finally done on the Z and it's time for a tune. I've heard that doing a spark plug swap and oil change are necessary before a dyno
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Breather mods are finally done on the Z and it's time for a tune. I've heard that doing a spark plug swap and oil change are necessary before a dyno day. Any thoughts or recommendations on what I need done before going and getting a tune?
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How many miles since the last oil change? Never heard doing the spark plugs is a must..
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Change the oil if close to 3k and spark plugs if you plan to be 100 more HP then stock or over 60,000 miles. Since you have a 13 I doubt you're over 60k.
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1500 miles since last oil change total miles on the car 8500. I was doing one regardless since it would be due when I go in for my appointment. I just heard about guys burning plugs during a tune, and paying for plugs on top of the tune. I would do that before I go in.
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You're good to go. I wouldn't change oil or plugs. Now if you was close to 3,000 miles on the oil, yes I would change it. Plugs, no. I've got 20+ dyno runs on mine so far. Plus 6 trackdays. All on the the same plugs.
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I'm still on the original factory spark plugs at ~40K miles and lots of dyno pulls and track weekends. I picked up a replacement set because it's kind-of about time to just do it before they ever become a problem, but honestly they could probably go quite a bit longer.
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I ran M1 and Redline. Based off of oil reports I've had done I like the formula of the RL better. It has a higher yield of an element that protects better down to a microscopic level. Also, even coming out of the bottle M1 is like water, when hot its worse. I like my RL to remain thicker and protect when racing or for the aggressive street driver since it won't shear off like "water."
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Oil change only if close to whatever OCI you follow; otherwise, should be fine.
Mobil 1 is fine. Plugs should be fine to 100K, give or take; colder plugs might be needed if you were going FI (i.e., turbo or SC), but not NA with bolt on's. BUT -- do you have a baseline? If not, it will be much harder to determine how much you gained over stock from the breather mods (although you can compare before and after tune, of course). What kind of dyno?
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I'd have to dig and research more but we know these things "burn oil." Watery oil isn't good. You don't need a lab to see the pour rate out of the bottle. Based on a thinner oil flow rate and a motor notorious to lose some during OCI, I can't agree and say its fine. It might protect ok but you might end up spending more to refill and a number of other things that might happen which are just annoying.
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Are you going on something from the Oil Nerd's thread, BITOG or your own UOA's? A couple of suggestions: 1. Mustangs can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" -- it all depends how they are calibrated. Don't get too wrapped up the absolute values -- look to see what you put down BEFORE tuning and then AFTER tuning. I also advise you allow for three runs before AND after (i.e., 6 runs minimum in total) to give the ECU time to adjust to changes made to the target AFR map. Try to take all runs with oil temps between 180* F and 200* F. If it gets over 220* F (and it might), let it cool down before the next pull. 2. While you are there, ask for adjustment to the throttle maps to improve throttle response, turning the radiator fans on full bast a bit earlier (there's a few threads on each of these items) and if you have a 7AT, ask the tuner to firm up the shifts by adjusting the torque map. Good luck! ![]()
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