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things to do before dyno day

I had a lil over 33k on my Z when I did UpRev. Drove my car for about 1,000 miles with FI exhaust, ART pipes, pulley, and G3's. I had

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Old 11-27-2013, 10:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I had a lil over 33k on my Z when I did UpRev. Drove my car for about 1,000 miles with FI exhaust, ART pipes, pulley, and G3's. I had Intec Racing check my plugs and they were ****. I had them changed out.

I didn't do my oil though since I had only put about 1,700 miles on the car since purchase. So the oil was still decent.
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I had a lil over 33k on my Z when I did UpRev. Drove my car for about 1,000 miles with FI exhaust, ART pipes, pulley, and G3's. I had Intec Racing check my plugs and they were ****. I had them changed out.

I didn't do my oil though since I had only put about 1,700 miles on the car since purchase. So the oil was still decent.
They were ****? Or they tell you they were ****? Big difference. I highly doubt they were ****. They are the most expensive plugs on the market with the best metals. And from data logging my car with cai, LTH, CBE, they look amazing!! Little rich WOT in the upper rpms, but nothing to hurt a plug. My WRX ran a full 1.0 richer at WOT and were fine. Unless they changed the tune in 13, I'm sure your logs were ok too.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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They were ****? Or they tell you they were ****? Big difference. I highly doubt they were ****. They are the most expensive plugs on the market with the best metals. And from data logging my car with cai, LTH, CBE, they look amazing!! Little rich WOT in the upper rpms, but nothing to hurt a plug. My WRX ran a full 1.0 richer at WOT and were fine. Unless they changed the tune in 13, I'm sure your logs were ok too.
No, I visually inspected the plugs myself and they were awful. Which may have been caused by a mix of wrong fuel usage by original owner and the mods.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm interested in what you put down. I may swap out my ART pipes for FI LTHs.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Question I would say three Hail Mary's before the dyno pull

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Old 11-28-2013, 08:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Make sure the tuner has a Knock Sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Make sure the tuner has a Knock Sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ummm what? What car doesn't have a knock sensor and in the ecu definitions, fine learning knock correction and knock correction advance??
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ummm what? What car doesn't have a knock sensor and in the ecu definitions, fine learning knock correction and knock correction advance??
Don't confuse yourself with Subaru stuff!

But yes the Nissan has a knock sensor and the right tuning tools will tell you what's going on


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Old 11-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't confuse yourself with Subaru stuff!

But yes the Nissan has a knock sensor and the right tuning tools will tell you what's going on


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Thought so. FKA, FKL...I'm sure all modern OBD2 cars have something vs. Going aftermarket.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Trust me or not but any good tuner should have a knock sensor while dynoing a car.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Trust me or not but any good tuner should have a knock sensor while dynoing a car.
Not trying to argue with you but any tuner that has experience can certainly do without aftermarket knock sensors.

That being said , I have a set of really nice ones but I very rarely use then. Used it on my 650whp STi and a few crazy GTRs when I first started working on them.

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Old 11-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, obviously I never built a car. Ever. This is my first build. Expensive start but hopefully it will eliminate stupid decisions; which is why I am here to ask the questions and learn from mistakes and not pull the same stuff others have. Thank you guys for all of your advice.

As for losing about a quart a change well, Mobil apparently is crap oil, if I would have known better earlier in my money pits life span things would have been different. Regardless, learn me the ways of not sucking at cars.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, obviously I never built a car. Ever. This is my first build. Expensive start but hopefully it will eliminate stupid decisions; which is why I am here to ask the questions and learn from mistakes and not pull the same stuff others have. Thank you guys for all of your advice.

As for losing about a quart a change well, Mobil apparently is crap oil, if I would have known better earlier in my money pits life span things would have been different. Regardless, learn me the ways of not sucking at cars.
It's not crap, just not ideal in all cars/motors. My/wife's merc c300 has euro M1 0w40 in it and doesn't burn a drop. It's got 5-6k on the oil now and it's still showing full. The car isn't raced or anything and I don't believe the motor runs hot so M1 is fine for this particular car.
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It's not crap, just not ideal in all cars/motors. My/wife's merc c300 has euro M1 0w40 in it and doesn't burn a drop. It's got 5-6k on the oil now and it's still showing full. The car isn't raced or anything and I don't believe the motor runs hot so M1 is fine for this particular car.
Been using M1 5w30 for awhile. Haven't burned a drop of it. My Z doesn't use oil thank god. Last oil change I which over to the Euro M1 0w40.
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Been using M1 5w30 for awhile. Haven't burned a drop of it. My Z doesn't use oil thank god. Last oil change I which over to the Euro M1 0w40.
I am running M1 0W40 as well.
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