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things to do before dyno day

Originally Posted by Rusty 8,500 miles on the car. Ain't worth it. Must have misread, thought you had more miles. Uprev or EcuTek ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Old 11-24-2013, 08:25 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
8,500 miles on the car. Ain't worth it.
Must have misread, thought you had more miles.

Uprev or EcuTek ?


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Old 11-24-2013, 08:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Mobil 1 is fine.
I'd have to dig and research more but we know these things "burn oil." Watery oil isn't good. You don't need a lab to see the pour rate out of the bottle. Based on a thinner oil flow rate and a motor notorious to lose some during OCI, I can't agree and say its fine. It might protect ok but you might end up spending more to refill and a number of other things that might happen which are just annoying.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:59 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I'd have to dig and research more but we know these things "burn oil." Watery oil isn't good. You don't need a lab to see the pour rate out of the bottle. Based on a thinner oil flow rate and a motor notorious to lose some during OCI, I can't agree and say its fine. It might protect ok but you might end up spending more to refill and a number of other things that might happen which are just annoying.
I personally prefer Redline, based on the UOA's I was getting on my previous Z, where I was the original owner and responsible for break-in vs. "German" Castrol, but I don't recall any clear evidence of Mobil 1 being especially bad based on other folks' UOA's.

Are you going on something from the Oil Nerd's thread, BITOG or your own UOA's?

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Originally Posted by Vnismo370z View Post
Mustang ... uprev
A couple of suggestions:

1. Mustangs can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" -- it all depends how they are calibrated. Don't get too wrapped up the absolute values -- look to see what you put down BEFORE tuning and then AFTER tuning.

I also advise you allow for three runs before AND after (i.e., 6 runs minimum in total) to give the ECU time to adjust to changes made to the target AFR map. Try to take all runs with oil temps between 180* F and 200* F. If it gets over 220* F (and it might), let it cool down before the next pull.

2. While you are there, ask for adjustment to the throttle maps to improve throttle response, turning the radiator fans on full bast a bit earlier (there's a few threads on each of these items) and if you have a 7AT, ask the tuner to firm up the shifts by adjusting the torque map.

Good luck!
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:14 PM   #20 (permalink)
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6mt. and I have about 2 hours of dyno time. Clock stops on cool down periods.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:19 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Did you change the flux capacitor?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i never once even removed my factory installed spark plugs until several several thousands of boosted miles, guessing maybe 20K boosted, and they looked like I should just put them back in.

I cant imagine a NA VHR needing plugs before 50,000 miles, if not way more.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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i never once even removed my factory installed spark plugs until several several thousands of boosted miles, guessing maybe 20K boosted, and they looked like I should just put them back in.

I cant imagine a NA VHR needing plugs before 50,000 miles, if not way more.
Wow I am surprised you had that many boosted miles on the stock plugs.. Maybe everyone is a little over paranoid about it?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Wow I am surprised you had that many boosted miles on the stock plugs.. Maybe everyone is a little over paranoid about it?
Yes everyone is way too paranoid about the wrong things. These cars simply need hardly anything to support all the power the stock engine is good for.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
I personally prefer Redline, based on the UOA's I was getting on my previous Z, where I was the original owner and responsible for break-in vs. "German" Castrol, but I don't recall any clear evidence of Mobil 1 being especially bad based on other folks' UOA's.

Are you going on something from the Oil Nerd's thread, BITOG or your own UOA's?
Why do you say German Castrol? You talking about M1 0-40 euro oil?

I'm going off my UOA. They weren't bad. Just not as pretty as RL. And with the thinness, in the WRX's, those motors just burned right though it. I used RL there too and never lost a drop. This is the first motor I'm actually losing oil between changes. Same break in etc so I don't know whats up. If I ran M1 I'd probably lose it all by 3000 miles.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:34 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I lose about a quart a change... Thanks you guys! Also new oil thread!!! Now to buy some redline... also OEM filter good enough?
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I had a lil over 33k on my Z when I did UpRev. Drove my car for about 1,000 miles with FI exhaust, ART pipes, pulley, and G3's. I had Intec Racing check my plugs and they were ****. I had them changed out.

I didn't do my oil though since I had only put about 1,700 miles on the car since purchase. So the oil was still decent.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm interested in what you put down. I may swap out my ART pipes for FI LTHs.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:21 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Question I would say three Hail Mary's before the dyno pull

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Old 11-28-2013, 06:28 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Why do you say German Castrol? You talking about M1 0-40 euro oil?

I'm going off my UOA. They weren't bad. Just not as pretty as RL. And with the thinness, in the WRX's, those motors just burned right though it. I used RL there too and never lost a drop. This is the first motor I'm actually losing oil between changes. Same break in etc so I don't know whats up. If I ran M1 I'd probably lose it all by 3000 miles.
Yes the 0 wt. oil.

Eh... you might want to check the TSB on oil consumption. I don't know what role the particular oil you used played a role (if any), but this is a known problem that crops up from time to time...
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