things to do before dyno day

Jordo!

I personally prefer Redline, based on the UOA's I was getting on my previous Z, where I was the original owner and responsible for break-in vs. "German" Castrol, but I don't recall any clear evidence of Mobil 1 being especially bad based on other folks' UOA's.

Are you going on something from the Oil Nerd's thread, BITOG or your own UOA's?

A couple of suggestions:

1. Mustangs can "break hearts" or "lift spirits" -- it all depends how they are calibrated. Don't get too wrapped up the absolute values -- look to see what you put down BEFORE tuning and then AFTER tuning.

I also advise you allow for three runs before AND after (i.e., 6 runs minimum in total) to give the ECU time to adjust to changes made to the target AFR map. Try to take all runs with oil temps between 180* F and 200* F. If it gets over 220* F (and it might), let it cool down before the next pull.

2. While you are there, ask for adjustment to the throttle maps to improve throttle response, turning the radiator fans on full bast a bit earlier (there's a few threads on each of these items) and if you have a 7AT, ask the tuner to firm up the shifts by adjusting the torque map.

Good luck!

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synolimit

Why do you say German Castrol? You talking about M1 0-40 euro oil?

I'm going off my UOA. They weren't bad. Just not as pretty as RL. And with the thinness, in the WRX's, those motors just burned right though it. I used RL there too and never lost a drop. This is the first motor I'm actually losing oil between changes. Same break in etc so I don't know whats up. If I ran M1 I'd probably lose it all by 3000 miles.

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13 370z-

Jordo!

Yes the 0 wt. oil.

Eh... you might want to check the TSB on oil consumption. I don't know what role the particular oil you used played a role (if any), but this is a known problem that crops up from time to time...

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synolimit

Well thinner oil will leak past the valve seals and piston rings and get burned up in combustion. This is why RL says their oil is like a full 10w higher than others with the same numbers. If its a bad oil or left in to long, then you scare the walls and such leading to more leaking. Guys with over a 1qt per 1-3k have done something wrong. Subi was an issue because all turbos leak a little and the M1 just shoots by. I'd have to compare 5w30 and euro to see a difference. I ran 5w40 RL in the subi to lose zero over 3-4k. That's like a 5w50 M1.

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13 370z-