would i need a tune
 

Mods please move if this is in the wrong section

I am sure this has come up before but i would like to get some insight on my specific mods/future mods

right now i am in the market for some test pipes, my current engine mod is a Fujita Replica intake(one for the G37, short ram intake, MAF ID changed from stock 2.34in to 2.5in and the rest of the pipe is 2.75in), I want to get test pipes with O2 Spacers built in

I was wondering if i need a tune to run this combination since the intake changes MAF ID, or if i could keep on stock tune without worrying about running too lean since i am already leaned out from the stock 10:1 AFR to 12.5-12.7:1 AFR(got these numbers via ECU and torque pro for android)


Thanks in advance

Yes, you need to recalibrate the ecu if you want to get the benefit from your mods

To really get your money's worth out of a tune, get all of your mods done first. Otherwise you'll have to go back and get it retuned. I'd also do whatever you're going to do about that intake beforehand. You're probably ok running as is until you get tuned, but running leaner combined with high IATs is asking for detonation.

Chuck, this is true if your tuner does not offer free lifetime updates to your calibration! All of our files come with this as long as you stay within the same type of induction, ie; normal atmo vs forced.

Absolutely. That's a great selling point for your service. That could end up saving hundreds, if not thousands of dollars in the long run.

Thank you. I'll go ahead and relocate filters before getting something like test pipes.

If I can prevent blowing the motor, I will XD

I believe I was PMing you a while back, you're tuning with ECUtek right?

When I'm ready to tune I'll PM you :)

Guys, I got this.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1376588315

yes sir , that's us!

lol

Stock AFR of 10:1??? What are you talking about? 12.7:1 is not lean. You do not need a tune. Secondly ditch your ebay intake.

Yeah, 10:1 is way off. If that intake is making him run two points leaner than that, what's to say it's not two points leaner than the real stock AFR? That would be leaner than I would be comfortable with.

what is stock AFR then?

i was picking up 10:1 stock at WOT with torque pro for android and its getting that reading right off the ECU

If its higher than that that would mean im running too lean already and would either need a tune or to get rid of the intakes

Don't know offhand, but 10:1 is really rich.

should be in the 11.8- 12.5 range at full load that's the stock target, but we have seen them all over the place in real life

And if he's two points leaner than that after the intake there's an issue.

He's 2 points richer.

This happens (in my experience) when the MAF readings get too far of a % out of "stock" either direction. The car defaults to a super rich "save your ***" tune. Same thing happened when I put on my Nismo intakes (with or without the venturi spacers that are supposed to maintain the stock metering orifice) and before the tune went on.

I thought if he was at 10:1 before the intake, and 12.5 after then he's running leaner. Maybe I misread his initial post.

You're right, I misunderstood.

If he's at 12.7:1 he's perfect and should stop worrying about it.

10:1 is way wrong.

If the 12.7 is right, he's good to go. If that 12.7 is off as much as his stock reading, he's asking for trouble especially considering how hot IATs get with short rams.

I can tell you this... my AFR targets, specified by Jared @ UpRev are 12.68:1.

So there's that. haha

I'm currently running rich (11.5's) and down significantly on power since changing exhausts and filters...which was unexpected...but that's another topic completely.

Yeah. He's either dead on or playing with fire, depending on how off his readings are. If he's off the same amount post intake as he was pre intake, that's not good. If he really is seeing 12.7, then he's good to go. A dyno run with the tailpipe sniffer in would clear up that question in a hurry.

OK I never saw 11.8 at full load, always 10 stock, even after the ecu reset the dealer did when they changed my CSC it was 10:1, I started seeing the 12.7:1 after I threw on the intakes and reset the ECU

Any chance my app isn't giving me correct data? I don't have any other way to log AFRs so I don't know if torque is giving me wrong data or not, it shouldn't since its just pulling that data off the ECU

It's very possible you're getting bad data. Find a place near you for a couple of dyno runs with their wideband in the tailpipe. You'll know for sure.

I have always seen 10.1 stock, before my ecu was reset by the dealer and after with stock intakes with drop ins.

Anyone have an android phone with torque pro and uprev to compare data?

Don't really have the money to be doing dyno runs at the moment

If its always been 10.1:1, you either have something wrong with your car or your data logging. A couple of dyno runs are ~$50-75. That's a lot cheaper than popping a motor because what you thought was 12.7 was 14.7 and you sucked up a bunch of hot air or bad gas.

Your AFR is what your ECU is seeing. Doubtful it's bad data. Also since you're not logging data you're just looking at it while driving (right?) it's probably not accurate.

Ya I'll do a 3rd gear pull to red line and look at where it is at.

Idle and everything sits @ 14.7:1. I can do a data log on my way home today though and see where exactly I sit.

Setup logging like I showed you. And ditch yo ebay intakes lol

If its causing me to run too lean then I will but if it isn't than I won't.

160° intake temps... Smh lol

thats literally sitting though like if i were to leave my car idling in a parking lot for 30 mins, when i start moving at low speeds, i usually sit anywhere from 20-40 above ambient and when moving at high speeds im anywhere from 10-20 above ambient

Regardless of when it happens, it's still bad. All of those temps are dramatically higher than what you would be seeing with a CAI or the stock intake.

very true, so i guess i should first figure out what my AFR is via dyno, then after that(assuming AFRs are the same as what i have been seeing) relocate filters to the outside of the engine bay then tune or test pipes(all of the PM's i have received regarding tuning offer free updates with tunes) depending on what i decide to do first

That's about right. Figure out if you're logging good data first, then go from there. I hate to say it, but just moving the air filters may not do anything as far as your AFRs go. That's more a function of the size of the MAF housing. Maybe a tune can scale it correctly. Even then, if airflow through the MAF housing is very turbulent, it still may be very inconsistent and hard to tune for. There's more to intake design than welding a MAF tube up and slapping on a filter. Where the bends are and the radii of them are very important to airflow, and it's not likely that ebay parts makers are doing anything besides slapping a tube and filter together. I'd bet good money that you would see more power, lower IATs and more consistent performance from a stock airbox on the dyno than an ebay intake. Or cut the MAF tubes off your stock airboxes and DIY up a CAI like others here have done.

these are replica fujita intakes and not just some ebay special intake that was given to me(as i found out recently, via youtube and google)

here are the Fujita intake
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6...take016js2.jpg

and here are mine
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...25231567_n.jpg

It's your car. If it were mine, I'd ditch the eBay replica and either buy or make a real cai, or go back to stock airboxes with maf hoses and drop in filters.

Wouldn't I have thrown a lean code by now if I was running lean?