No, no tune. :tup:

Well that's just not possible. Sorry but this is why I hate mustangs.

Explain....(not being a douche, just want your input)

I was surprised at the numbers as well, but took into account that vs last time, i have been using 93oct fuel for some time vs the baseline runs i did a few months with 91oct. I KNOW that fuel did not contribute to all this extra power, but felt it helped a lot. Fuel + exhaust + MAF hoses and K&N filters. Could it be possible that 2013+ models/ECUs react better to these mods? Dont know if changes in the ECU programming were made in 2013. Just throwing some ideas around, but im no expert as you can see :icon14:

Eh, I dunno... a 12% gain in power and a 7% gain in torque from those mods sounds a tad high with the factory cats, but not impossible. The higher octane might have coaxed a little more timing advance out of the ECU as well.

Still, yes, I much prefer dynojets too...

It's just way to much. 32hp is unreal. A CBE doesn't do to much and even if you went full stillen gen 3 you're looking at only 15hp if you're lucky. There are single parts that when added do add a lot but the more you add the lower the increase. Unless im mistaken you only did a CBE right? Whats the cat situation?

I dyno'd with a cai and CBE and only made 3 more vs a car with only test pipes. Then I did a LTH and went up 13. The guy with the TP's wouldn't have a chance to gain 32hp with a cai and CBE beating my new number by 16hp. It just couldn't happen without a tune.

Fuel isn't going to change anything on a dyno. Octane just prevents knock which pulls timing. Just because you add more octane, the ecu can't increase timing within the stock map unless it's told to. It will only run whats set. Now if you tune a car and add octane, then you can add more timing till you knock and make more vs a lower octane where you'll have to tune for less timing since it will knock sooner. Only a car like a turbo regal with an alcohol sensor can increase timing on the fly when it notices you went from gas to e85. Now I will say this...unless you were knocking in the runs before, then yes, the fuel would add power and the parts would add 32hp. But from the looks of the graph I don't think you were knocking and 270hp is pretty much what every single stock 370 has put down on almost any dyno ever. So you see the only real variable that changed was something on the dyno. Nothing else adds up.

PS it's not a big deal. Long as the car runs good and you're happy that's all that matters. I just know people like to make customers happy so sometimes a few clicks here and there happen to show more. Hell my tuners even admitted it. A guy demanded like 500hp so he just clicked std vs SAE and boom, 19 more hp for the final run.

Only if he was knocking before. My last session was running 22-23 degrees on 93. I know if I added 110 VP my timing wouldn't just shoot up unless I tell it to. There's no sensor on the car that reads octane. Just a O2, MAF, and knock sensor that can't. Again if I knocked at 24 degrees on 93 then we know 23 is all I could run. But with the VP I could shoot for 24-25-26 etc. but I'd have to go into the timing advance and push beyond 23 first.

There's a bunch of transient modifiers that can lead the ECU to pull back a bit of timing, the big ones being oil temp and IAT. In PR with 92* F temps, I could see that initial run being on the low side on 91 AKI if there was even a hint of knock.

Also, I have no idea what correction factors were used -- that's going to bump things up or down by a few points.

That said, I think it boils down to a slightly low baseline dyno and a slightly high reading post-mod dyno, but the overall proportionate gains don't seem wildly off base.

It would be interesting to see what it puts down on a dynojet with SAE correction, that's for sure.

Yeah that could be. it does look like a richer run before which helps keep timing up and knock at bay. After it leaned way out which will add power but could help produce knock more. Either way though the graph looks to good to be pulling timing from knock but like you said it could be low on timing if his IAT was way up. But again I don't think so just because 270 hp is such a great average stock number.

I bet you're right, correction changed or something. With these mods, SAE, dynojet he'd be right where I was, about 280hp. I just think filters are good for about 10hp and CBE's don't do to much.

I have so much to learn :shakes head:

On the other hand, i will read up some more on your suggestions guys :tiphat:

One of the things i was afraid of was what synolimit mentioned, and its a dyno shop trying to make me "happy" with higher numbers. But just like i was telling jordo and synolimit was saying, im happy with how the car feels, so thats whats important, and not the hp/tq my cas has. Ill have to try my luck on another dyno like a dynojet to see what kind of results i get. I always opted for a mustang dyno for this same reason, and that was thinking that i would get a real number and not a higher unrealistic number or result. Guess i didnt do a lot of research, but again, i have a lot to learn.

PS i love this forum and the helpful people here :hello: thanks!!!

It really comes down to measurement variance; dynojets have less in the way of specific calibration options to enter, so you tend to see less variance between different units -- that's really the only reason I like it so much, but it's an important reason because it minimizes uncertainty in interpreting the effects of various mods.

The only real "fudge factors" on a dynojet are the correction factor used (I tend to view SAE as a "lower bound" and STD an "upper bound"), the weather data used by the dynojet software to calculate the correction, and, finally, the actual weather, including air pressure (and BTW, no correction factor can perfectly compensate for this).

As to the car itself, oil temps, fuel trims, knock sensor response, gear used for the run, air temps, and coolant temps, and good old fashioned wheel slip all create some measurement variance.

That said, if one tries to keep oil and air temps consistent, uses the same gear for each run, is aware of how quickly the ECU can approach target fueling (usually about 3 runs to redline, or so it seems), and makes sure the tires aren't slipping, you will still see remarkable consistency in dynojet readings across units.

That sort of sounds like a lot to keep in mind when measuring things (and it is), but so long as you do keep these ideas in mind, interpretation becomes far easier and clearer.

I have ton's of dynos posted that show differences in gear, effects of weather, etc floating around on here (especially the so-called "Proven Power Dyno Thread") as well as in my picture gallery.