Well I'm not quite sure how to answer this as I don't know specifically what your asking? I was running rich before my tune and the tune was able to get my afr to where it needed to be with the parts I had as well as smoothing out a few dips in the power band. The reason I have two is b/c the timing has to be retarded for when I am spraying which is my track application and occasional spirited driving along with other variables when adding nitrous through the motor. I just didn't want the cruise control factor to be the reason for not going uprev. In reality either software you pick, it will come down to the guy tuning your vehicle. The first time I had it done, it was a bust and I got ripped off. Second time was better but not where it needed to be b/c of lack of experience. Take it to a reputable shop, not just any shop but one that deals with our specific car. When my build is done my car is going to GA home of Z1 which I am excited about. Just remember going all N/a will only get you so far as there is still much to be found in cracking this motor.

Some of the other items that can be tweaked through Uprev (and Ecutek I would assume, but there's no telling which features are available yet) are the throttle maps and fan control. You want these, trust me.

Both of these are currently available in EcuTek. Tweaking the throttle maps was by far the most noticeable result of my tune: much better throttle response. I know fan control is in there, but I'm going to educate myself a little more before I talk to my tuner about adjusting it.

Great info, just what I was looking for. I am in GA now and Z1 is the place I will be going to for any work. They have a great rep in the are and Jon there is the bomb. Thanks again for the info.

Chuck what's up with the throttle map and fan control? Can you speak a little more on this?

You're in TX in the summer. Get that **** done yesterday. The car loves it.

Ok cool, I saw the list of mods on your sig, have you added any since then?

You can dial in a more responsive throttle by changing the mapping of the drive by wire throttle bodies. You can have the fans turn on at lower temperatures to keep the car cooler in hotter climates. Both of these made a large difference in how my car ran.

lol will do - I bet she does :tup:

Gotcha..being here in GA and having Z1 being a shop that tunes that ecu type, I'm sure they may put that into account. It can get hot here at times. Thanks for the insight!

Thanks for mentioning that :tiphat: I hadn't updated my sig because the tune is sort of still in progress - I haven't even paid for it yet :icon17: But I'll go ahead and update the sig anyway.

I actually installed new front rotors (EBC USR Ultimax Slotted) and front pads (Hawk Performance Ceramic) and changed out the brake fluid with ATE SuperBlue all last night. Noticeable improvement as my stock rotors were a bit warped with uneven pad depositing. I know the Hawk pads are solid from previous experiences, and so far they seem to be right on par.

Oil and water temps are a lot more consistant once the fans are set to come on at a lower temperature. There seems to be less of the heat soak/IAT "lag" than there was before I had the temps adjusted.

I know exactly of the "lag" you speak of - very glad to hear this :tiphat:

You're lucky to have a shop like that near you. Regardless of which software you decide on, pick a good tuner and stick with them.

Cool....I think a lot of people focus on the engine and gaining more HP and not think about the breaking system. Which is one of the most important things when moding.

Indeed, Z1 has a great rep here. many of the members in the car club use them and swears by them. I'm going to visit the shop in a few weeks and meet with Jon and chat about a few projects. I will mention this thread and ask about the throttle and fan tuning on the ECU. Once work get's started I will update the board with data.

you mean braking? because i don't want a breaking system in my z :icon17:

You're exactly right :tup: If you're going to get on a track with this car, the stock pads and stock brake fluid are not adequate. Replacing both of them is absolutely necessary. Also, a Z with no oil cooler or only the stock oil cooler is probably going to need an aftermarket oil cooler for sustained track use.

The Breaking System is what controls the Steering Lock :icon17:

Yes I meant that..LOL

I know right..I did see a few oil coolers out there that look promising. Z1 one's sells a few of them, with various sizes. It would depend on how hard you run the Z on the track or where you live in reference to temperature.

You're in Atlanta. Buy a 34 row oil cooler whether you plan on tracking the car or not.

You think so? I know the large the row the more oil it can cool at any given time. You don't think it's a bit much?

It's a hell of a lot easier to make a plate to block off part of the cooler in winter than it is to add cooling capacity in the summer. And I don't think I've really heard of too many Zs running too cool. You're in the south, it gets hot in the summer and not too cold in the winter.

Plus if you have a thermostatic sandwich plate, it would have to be pretty damned cold outside for you to have issues with the oil not getting warm enough since most of them only flow 5% or less when 'closed'.

Yeah, I hit 220F oil temps in the winter in Texas without even trying. I probably wouldn't even need a block off plate.

Ok I gotcha...since we are on the oil cooler, what are your thoughts on the oil pan spacer. I heard the clearance is an issue for lowered cars.

I'd never make the oil pan the lowest part of the car. The cooler wil add a quart or so of capacity. That'll be fine.

Gotcha!

:iagree:

If after the oil cooler is installed and the fan settings adjusted through your choice of software you're still seeing high oil temps, then I'd look at the oil pan GTM sells with their new MHI turbo kit. They sell it by itself and it adds quite a bit of capacity. I seriously doubt you'll need it unless your car sees a lot of track time. Realistically, with a cooler you'll be fine.