06-25-2013, 09:18 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Tejas
Posts: 146
Drives: 2013 BRZ
Rep Power: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079
A good tune needs to include both dyno and street tuning, since there's so much more to it than just tuning wot on the dyno. I'm just trying to get an idea of the total cash outlay.
Edit now that I'm not trying to type on my phone- I'm not a huge fan of tuning WOT/ full bore pulls on the street. That's more for on/off throttle, part throttle, etc. I'd prefer to have the high speed stuff done on a dyno. Plus, I want all the printouts- power, boost/afr, etc. The butt dyno is often a liar. If I'm going to drop the coin to switch software, I'd like to be able to look at it and say "this is X more power at Y rpm".
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completely agree with you. I see a huge amount of shops "tuning" on the dyno, and not paying any attention to the drive characteristics of the car. so what you end up with is a car that makes a sh#t load of power, but stalls, farts, and makes the driver look like an idiot. Not much fun to drive in short.
I would much rather give up 1-2% on the top end to have a well rounded car that has factory like transitions.
Now all that said, you CAN get 95-96% of everything available with drive cycle tuning and data logs, BEFORE you ever strap the car to a chassis dyno. And that's coming from a guy that owns two 50K$ dynos.
I enjoy working on the dyno, and have 25+ years in this business. But not everyone wants or needs the last 4-5% that you get from the extra money spent on the rollers.
Those of you that have blood sweat and cubic dollars in your car, yes I understand. Trust me I understand. My Mazda 6 World Challenge car spends about 1/3 of its life on the dyno trying new stuff
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