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With the Cobb AP, can you change the revs per mile to correct speedo and odometer readings associated with different wheels/tires or is that something more mechanical?
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no, that is not handled by the ECU
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Has anyone actually had their 370Z tuned with a Cobb port?. I have the port but the tuner is having some trouble getting the software.
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Yes, Cobb in Plano Tx tuned mine and I'm also having problems getting the software to install so I can read the tuning tables and learn the software. Typically do my own tuning and honestly have seen hundreds of cars tuned, but I'm about as lost as a big dog can be. Not being able to get the software working is one thing........the other is how the car responded to tuning. The car was very rich on the top end (in the 10's) and should have picked up decent power from tuning. I have Stillen Gen III intake, Headers, Berk Cats and full Stillen exhaust so air in/out should not be an issue. Going from 10 whatever to 12.7 AFR produced absolutely no power gains. Calvin whom does the tuning was a bit stumped also. The only thing I can think of is the air intake temps were between 106-108 and the car does not like warm (really hot) air, or the computer somehow purposely limits the power until it learns. Dunno?? For some odd reason cars do not dyno well here in Dallas in the summer. Not sure if it's the heat or air quality, but I'm waiting for fall to give the tuning another shot. Take it back on the original dyno where I have my baselines in cooler weather and see what happens. If someone has any words of wisdom.....I'm all teeth n ears. |
^ Good post. I'll post results when HPLogic tests out a tune on my car, or if they do. Hopefully results will be different, but thanks for your input Denny.
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ouch... that's not good news... please post dyno results, denny
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Somebody.......help me. Anybody. |
I have the cobb and they sent me a 370 6mt instead of 7 at.
Had trouble loading the drives/ Have not got a clue how to tune it I have the stillen headers, berk cats, stillen exhaust and stillen g3 intake. |
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Normally you need a dyno with a wideband 02 sensor and the fuel/air is the first thing you tweak. Dyno's and widebands make the process pretty simple as in the "old days" it was pure experience/trial and error as there was no objective feedback except power output. Every car is different but 13 to 1 (plus or minus some) is where most N/A cars make the best power I've tried to tune while driving the car and the only thing that happened is I lost power. Do the dyno. This was my first experience with a Mustang dyno and I'm sold on the concept as they put a more of a driving type load on the car. After you've found the fuel/air ratio the car likes and the fuel air line is flat, you can play with the timing. For reasons not known to me the fuel/air can change if you tweak the timing so make the proper adjustments. I not gained much either way on timing but have learned as a rule of thumb to be conservative on timing but aggressive on fuel/air. Make sure you are logging the car while it's on the dyno to see where you're at and make sure your not so aggressive that it's pulling out timing. A "puff' of exhaust is usually denotation. Doing each run the same is the key as things can change with engine temps so make sure your cool down and water temp is consistent each run. Of course...... we need to figure out how to get the software to work and then why the cars are not responding to input. BTW....... If someone with host the dyno sheet e-mail me personally @ dmclain@medserinc.com. Please. |
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I have an accessport for sale if anyone wants one.
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