Fan temps

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shamrock

It is installed. I took it for a drive now 1/3 traffic and 2/3 open road at 55 ambient temps. ... It seems that once the needle starts climbing after 15 minutes or so it continues to move up at a much greater pace but stops at the last pic. Your lowest needle mark is 140F?

My oil temp usually hits 140F before 2-4 miles/minutes. Gets to 170-180F within 7-8 miles/minutes.

Yes. My oil temp gauge is 140-300F.

Shamrock · 12-31-2012, 04:44 PM

Interesting. My oil gauge starts at 160 and doesn't really move from there till after 15 minutes at our winter temps. If yours starts at 140 it would seem more accurate because you can see movement almost right away. Does my previous post seem ok, normal?

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shamrock

Interesting. My oil gauge starts at 160 and doesn't really move from there till after 15 minutes at our winter temps. If yours starts at 140 it would seem more accurate because you can see movement almost right away. Does my previous post seem ok, normal?

That sounds slow to me. I'll let my car cool down to ambient (~60F in the garage and 50F outside right now) and see how long it takes to warm back up.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 07:53 PM

Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

Sh0velMan · 12-31-2012, 08:10 PM

You may just have oil that doesn't heat quickly or your thermostatic plate is faulty.

Also those fan settings look factory. I set mine to be 100% by 180 in summer and 190 in winter with next lowest being %50 at 180.

The ECU interpolates between the values in a linear manner with hysteresis.

I should also mention that the ECU doesn't switch fully to the warm engine fuel values until the engine oil reaches around 180 f (90c I believe is the actual value) and to my knowledge power loss above 190 is just a symptom rather than an ECU commanded reaction (until limp home is triggered). Timing is controlled by the knock sensor exclusively.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Trips · 12-31-2012, 08:25 PM

Wouldn't just covering half the oil cooler fix his slow warm up oil issue.

I think this would fix his issue till the ambient temps pickup or did I miss something?

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 08:34 PM

Thats what I'm thinking triple. I have an oil cooler blockoff plate in my photo album if anyone wants to get an idea. Its good for about 30ish on up depending on the drilled hole size.

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

Not according to the CO section of the 2009 FSM.

See flow diagram at CO-2 and CO-22 says "1. Check valve seating condition at ordinary room temperatures. It should seat tightly."

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 08:53 PM

My buddies failed in the open position....made sense at the time

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

... power loss above 190 is just a symptom rather than an ECU commanded reaction (until limp home is triggered). Timing is controlled by the knock sensor exclusively.

According to Omar at UpRev, the ECM pulls timing advance when oil and water temps get above 230F and 190F, respectively.

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

My buddies failed in the open position....made sense at the time

Wide open is a common failure mode. IIRC, they are designed to fail open, but won't swear to it; it may just be serendipity.

6MT · 12-31-2012, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

No they don't. The bees wax in the charge expands only when at the proper temperature. Thus... It opens. (It starts closed)

SouthArk370Z · 12-31-2012, 09:54 PM

Just took a little drive to see how long it takes to warm up. Outside temp: 48F and raining. Engine wasn't quite cold, but this should still give you a rough idea.

Code:

Time   Miles   Water   Oil
... Residential ...
2020   0.0      85     <140
2021   0.3     130     <140
2022   0.5     150     <140
2024   0.9     165     <140
... Highway ...
2026   2.0     180     145
2028   2.7     180     155
2029   3.4     180     165
2033   5.8     180     180
... turn around ...
2043  11.6     185     190

Shamrock · 01-01-2013, 01:10 AM

Your results are very similar to mine. I'll do it again and include water and residential. I can only see my needle move above 160 (stupid) while you can at 140. It took you nine minutes to get to the point where "my needle" would start to move and once your needle started moving your temp climbed to 180 in about 5 minutes. It's like it "unstuck" itself. Which thermostat are you guys talking about in the engine? Isn't this thermostat water related?

SouthArk370Z · 01-01-2013, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shamrock

Your results are very similar to mine. I'll do it again and include water and residential. I can only see my needle move above 160 (stupid) while you can at 140. It took you nine minutes to get to the point where "my needle" would start to move and once your needle started moving your temp climbed to 180 in about 5 minutes. It's like it "unstuck" itself. Which thermostat are you guys talking about in the engine? Isn't this thermostat water related?

You should have (at least) two "thermostats" on your car. The one that I call just thermostat is located on the engine (top front, IIRC) and re-circulates coolant (water) through the engine when the coolant is cold, bypassing the radiator.
Then there is the oil cooler thermo-bypass which re-circulates engine oil, bypassing the oil cooler, when the oil is cold.
They both serve the same purpose - allow fluids to warm up quicker - but one is for oil and the other is for coolant.

12-31-2012, 08:10 PM	#20 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	You may just have oil that doesn't heat quickly or your thermostatic plate is faulty. Also those fan settings look factory. I set mine to be 100% by 180 in summer and 190 in winter with next lowest being %50 at 180. The ECU interpolates between the values in a linear manner with hysteresis. I should also mention that the ECU doesn't switch fully to the warm engine fuel values until the engine oil reaches around 180 f (90c I believe is the actual value) and to my knowledge power loss above 190 is just a symptom rather than an ECU commanded reaction (until limp home is triggered). Timing is controlled by the knock sensor exclusively. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2 DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

12-31-2012, 08:25 PM	#21 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,732 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Wouldn't just covering half the oil cooler fix his slow warm up oil issue. I think this would fix his issue till the ambient temps pickup or did I miss something? __________________

12-31-2012, 09:54 PM	#28 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	Just took a little drive to see how long it takes to warm up. Outside temp: 48F and raining. Engine wasn't quite cold, but this should still give you a rough idea. Code: Time Miles Water Oil ... Residential ... 2020 0.0 85 <140 2021 0.3 130 <140 2022 0.5 150 <140 2024 0.9 165 <140 ... Highway ... 2026 2.0 180 145 2028 2.7 180 155 2029 3.4 180 165 2033 5.8 180 180 ... turn around ... 2043 11.6 185 190 __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 12-31-2012 at 09:58 PM.

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12-31-2012, 04:44 PM	#17 (permalink)
Shamrock Base Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Israel Posts: 215 Drives: 370z 2011 AT White Rep Power: 13	Interesting. My oil gauge starts at 160 and doesn't really move from there till after 15 minutes at our winter temps. If yours starts at 140 it would seem more accurate because you can see movement almost right away. Does my previous post seem ok, normal?

12-31-2012, 07:53 PM	#19 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

12-31-2012, 08:34 PM	#22 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Thats what I'm thinking triple. I have an oil cooler blockoff plate in my photo album if anyone wants to get an idea. Its good for about 30ish on up depending on the drilled hole size.

12-31-2012, 08:53 PM	#24 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	My buddies failed in the open position....made sense at the time

01-01-2013, 01:10 AM	#29 (permalink)
Shamrock Base Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Israel Posts: 215 Drives: 370z 2011 AT White Rep Power: 13	Your results are very similar to mine. I'll do it again and include water and residential. I can only see my needle move above 160 (stupid) while you can at 140. It took you nine minutes to get to the point where "my needle" would start to move and once your needle started moving your temp climbed to 180 in about 5 minutes. It's like it "unstuck" itself. Which thermostat are you guys talking about in the engine? Isn't this thermostat water related?