stillen intakes and fast intentions cbe tune?

DEpointfive0

I agree that if there really is a problem with the engine when they manufactured it that the problem is STILL their issue, BUT just for an example as an extreme, if your car is TT and let's say the CRANKSHAFT breaks, they can say it's because you were pushing too much power, it is DESIGNED a certain way, and you are DIRECTLY messing with it, even if it just a tune, you still are modifying something the manufacturer didn't really design you to play with

On my first hand experience, BMW 535i was chipped, motor blew at 30k miles, and a few days later BMW HQ called and informed me that the car's ECU was reset but their black box had data logged a higher amount of air and fuel being dumped into the car over a prolonged period of time.. SOL

Another friend in Dallas had ONLY a NST pulley kit, one day was driving, pulley sheared... He reinstalled the OEM crank pulley and belt, and it was wobbling, drove to the dealer, the OEM cast iron crank pulley sheared! Now I believe the crankshaft was defective that even the stock pulley would wobble... But they proved he had an aftermarket pulley and corporate declined all repairs... Paid out of pocket for a new motor...

Again, the dealer, if you find the right one may be able to pull strings and pull some shady work so you keep them as your main dealer, and hell, they make money off a warranty engine swap, so they SHOULDN'T care... (If the dealer is accused of foul play, the dealership gets fined several times the cost of the repair) Again for a catastrophic engine failure, unless you REALLY do have a great dealershit (Brandon, you have Baker North and South, so you're taken care of) you're gonna be SOL by tuning your car when it's warranty time


So if you're willing to bet your $500-1000 tune plus the cost of a new motor for the extra xHP, and no throttle delay, which I haven't experienced, and the ability to take your limiter off so you can go 200mph, by all means, do it...

Hell, I'm an Econ major, by all means tune your car, 99% of the money you pay goes into Americans' pockets, it supports the economy!

In my opinion the stock ECU will adjust the A/F ratios enough to get the best HP out of your mods if you give it enough time to adjust, making the effects of a tune minimal

DEpointfive0

And I don't think the bolt ons should ever void the warranty of any part of the engine... But a tune is directly hacking into the "brain" of the motor and of the car, so I honestly think Nissan or any car maker declining warranty work on a blown motor is kind of valid... Maybe the coding of the tune was corrupted in some way and the car kept misfiring, seems plausible to me, and that's an issue I don't believe Nissan will fix, and I would completely side on Nissan's behalf in their decision in not paying out for the repairs...
I think that's pretty logical, because you're directly hacking into the car and telling it to do something it wasn't designed to do...

jcosta79

Something else I missed (I think):

When you get a tune, can't you optimize the timing, etc... for the fuel that is available in your area? In other words, from the factory the ECU has to be tuned for 91 because that is all some states carry. But with a tune you can optimize for 93 if that's what you have.

Am I wrong?

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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

DEpointfive0

I do believe the ECU does adjust timing for up to 94 octane...
And New Mexico only had 90 octane... (New Mexico is worse than Old Mexico )

wstar

Right. There are timing settings in UpRev, and I guess they do sort of establish a baseline so that every time you reset the ECU (e.g. battery disconnect), you start off at a sane point. But the car seems to learn timing regardless. It will adjust to environmental changes (ambient temp effects, etc) as well as fuel quality in both directions, given a little time. If you know you just made a change to the input conditions that will affect timing (just switched to lower-quality gas than what you've been running, e.g. you burned through a tank of 100 octane at a track and now refilled with normal 93), it's probably best to take it easy on the engine for a little while until it finishes adjusting, though.

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Journal thread / Car setup details