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I believe 5k included labor to do all the installs? Headers are NOT easy on this car.
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#1 (permalink) |
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I believe 5k included labor to do all the installs? Headers are NOT easy on this car.
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Performance GTM Stage 1 SC, GTM Res.Test Pipes, Invidia Gemini Exhaust, GTM HD Oil Cooler Wheels & Suspension AME Tracer TM02's 19x9.5F 19x10.5R w/ 265x35F & 305x30R, Hotchkis Sways, BC (BR) Racing Coilovers (Car Sold) |
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#2 (permalink) |
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intake: $549
Headers: $786 HFC's: $573 exhaust: $1575 8.75% Sales Tax: $305 Install: $800 ECU re-map: $500 Dyno time: $200 Total: $5288. But, I got some of the parts on sale at Stillen, so it was a little cheaper. BTW, you guys can set here and rant all you want about how much power I should get and how much it costs, etc., but as I've said in a post earlier in this thread: This is not a mustang. I've owned 3 of them. This car does not make 60 hp per liter. Squeezing performance gains out of a high strung engine will not be as cheap. Hell, for $5000 you can go buy a 10 year old mustang and mod it so it will be faster than my Z. Do I care? Nope. Not one bit. The purpose of my initial post was not to brag about how much money I have to spend or to belittle Stillen because my car didn't get the same gains on the dyno as what they advertise. It was simply a real world exercise to show people what it will cost and what they should expect if they do this to their car. I hate to say it, but I'm going to unsubscribe from my own thread because of all the immature bickering going on in here. I used to have arguments like this with my brother back when I was in highschool. But that was 20 years ago. Enough. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Communiation doesn't require having to agree with the point another person has presented and there certainly is no requirement that you have to join hands and sing KUMBAYA around the campfire. I learned this from wstar earlier in this thread so why don't you give it a shot and just learn to tolerate disagreements. No one here has leveled any personal threats againt me in their posting so why are you doing a "spray and pray" with your remark about "immature bickering"? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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BTW, if go to Stillen and buy a bunch, ask for a Package price.
I took my car to a tuner, going to get Stillen Headers, HFC, Gen 3 intake, grounding kit and Under pulley. I already had the Stillen exhaust on but nothing else for go. Did change suspension and brakes but they don't affect HP. After I left the car, the dyno guy did a baseline run. They have some "pack" that they use. The results were 270 ft-lbs, 334 WHP. I'm going to try and attach the output but I wouldn't hold my breath on it. Anyway, I though the numbers were a bit high. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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You guys need sponsors... teehee
Stillen HFC Stllen CBE Stillen GenIII intake JWT Clutch JWT Flywheel B&M Short Shifter SS brake lines ECU reflash + dyno tuned to death Oil cooler Tanabe GF210 springs Axis wheels Cover of a magazine (ok... that one doesn't belong but ![]() Total cost out of my pocket: around $2,600. ![]() And there's more to come... ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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OK, we'll what I get after the upgrades and tuning and then go elsewhere and see what I get or just punch it and see if I like it. I'm not really into numbers I just want this car to faster than my old 300ZX TT (with 25K worth of upgrades). Just want to show some M3s and M* and other Euro "stuff" my rear spoiler. For government officials, I officially never go over 55MPH.
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#8 (permalink) |
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FYI - that's a dynapack dyno. It's a hydraulic chassis dyno that bolts up to drive hubs(wheels are removed). Dynapacks regularly read higher than dynojets - afterall, they are reporting hub hp and not wheel hp.
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#9 (permalink) |
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OK, now I'm confused. So it's not Flywheel HP and not wheel HP. Is there a formula to convert to WHP? How does it compare to Flywheel HP?
I'm getting Stillen G3 intake, headers, HFC, under pulley, grounding kit and Cobb tuning. Is there anything else before Turbos or Supercharger? |
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#10 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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It doesn't really matter honestly. Even all the dynos that all read WHP read it differently, because they use different methods of measurement and aren't well-standardized and calibrated. So we have typical DynoJet results, which differ from typical DynoDynamics results, which differ from typical Mustang Dyno results, etc. This one is just way different (and much higher) than the rest. The numbers aren't that useful when comparing between different dynos anyways.
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#12 (permalink) |
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OK, thanks for the info guys. Got the car back today. Stillen Headers, HFC, CBE, CAI, Under pulley, Grounding Kit. Fang intake (Not sure who invented it but Kudos). Cobb tuner BUT NO SOFTWARE yet. Even though not tuned, engine looked good on Dyno. Met the software engineer for the tuneup. I'm an SE and I don't do this stuff. very cool. Tuesday Tune up day.
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#13 (permalink) |
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One item on HP/$. I had a 300ZX TT. Adding initial "100" HP was not bad: exhaust, ECU and something else I can't remember. About 2K. Next "100" was quite expensive. Invovled new turbos, intercooler etc etc. If you take an engine that is not that sophisticated, getting first sets of HP not bad. In the old days, slapping on Weber carburetors (yes I am that old), got big gains. The 370 is finely tuned and therefore not ready to throw out big gains as NA. SC or Turbo may get bigger gains but I personally am a little leery of punching an 11:1 compression ration engine. Need reliability. Daily Driver.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Like you through the years I've pissed enough money away on hotrodding that you could buy a garage full of new Z's and still have a bunch of mod money left over. Big blocks, small blocks, turbo's, twin turbo's, big nitrous systems, stroker motors, etc. Money is a realitive thing and if your counting dollars per hp, it's probably not a hobby you should have. Just met someone while at the dream cruise in MI that did a twin turbo Z06. On 5 psi boost it made 651 rwhp. Completely redone from the O ringed forged bottem end to ported heads. Cost him in total $85K and the car was gone for a full year. Trying to detox from big hp cars and N/A these cars really are a lot of fun. However, the hp bug is hard to shake and I just don't see much more in N/A gains. Eyeing forced induction and also leery of the 11 to 1 compression. The first trick is thicker head gaskets to lower the compression. After that it's a built forged bottom end. What's the phrase......How fast do you want to go? Answer: How much money do you have. Last edited by Denny McLain; 08-21-2009 at 08:04 AM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Nice gains, very consistent as well. Although the car lacks a particular transition to power, the linear power/torque actually provide more usable power which is more impressive than a spike at any one rpm point. That is why the car does so well on the track, this isn't a car you want to buy as a drag car well, unless you are going TT.
As far as dynos are concerned, the key isn't so much the actual number but the numbers derived from the same dyno. In other words, don't focus on what power the car made, focus on the difference in power on the same dyno in similar conditions as you mod the car. If you are going to compare numbers, make sure and compare numbers on the same dyno. If person A dynos a certain number stock on dyno A and person B dynos a number on dyno B, it's not accurate to compare the two, as many have said, each dyno will read differently. As temps, humdity, etc change...so does the power. People keep forgetting that your timing will change depending on the environmental conditions. Elevation and other factors come into play as well.
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Chris ![]() Current: 2014 WRX Stage I + SPT / 2013 Hayabusa 202HP Former:09 370Z 7-AT PW/Ark Type 2 exhaust/Evo R lip/TSW Nurburgring carbon |
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