Smooth Throttle for UpRev

DIGItonium

Hmm... wonder if Sam@GTM would be willing to load your tables in one of the slots. I'd be happy to test it out for you. However, I'd be curious about the difference in the stock tables for 7AT versus 6MT.

I can keep the stock table for normal or wet weather driving, and then switch over to a snappier setup on dry days.

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Ron

Digi with the version of uprev that you have do you have access to at least look at the tables? You can compare your table to the wstar's stock table on the OP. I'd too be interested to know if they are same.

wstar

Basically unless he gets a Tuner license for that cable, no, he can't see the tables.

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zguynate

Any updates on this? What has your adjustments done for throttle response as well?

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2009 370z touring w/sports package

Jordo!

The stock map mirrors the stock power curve, right down to the drop in power before fuel cut and then the sudden spike.

The 2700 curve actually looks to be the best to me -- how does it feel compared the 2300 curve? Too jerky at upper range?

Did you try 2500?

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wstar

The 2700 Curve doesn't work right at all in the upper RPM range, it never even quite achieves full throttle opening. I don't think anybody really understands this map completely (probably because there are other related maps that UpRev hasn't decoded yet). I did try several other intermediate values, but the 2300 one came out the most ideal.

Keep in mind my criteria though:

My problem with the stock map is it doesn't allow the car to go full throttle from low RPM. Basically it restricts throttle response until the RPMs get a bit up "out of the hole" and then gradually opens the full throttle as the RPMs rise. This seems to be mostly to keep people who probably shouldn't be driving this car from stomping the pedal from a standstill and spinning out into the guy in the next lane.

The fix for this is to fix the final column of the table so that the low RPMs do the same thing at full pedal that the high RPMs do. However, you then still have to smooth the table back out in some sense, and if you don't do it right you end up with non-linear and/or jerky (and/or flat out buggy) throttle response. My goal in doing that smoothing is not "open up the the throttle as quickly as possible relative to pedal position". That's what some other people seem to want, and it's what those add-on generic electronic throttle fixups do, e.g. Why SprintBooster Works .

If I want the throttle open faster, I'll simply apply my foot faster . Technically a technique like the sprint booster uses probably shaves 20ms or whatever off of the total response time when you stomp the pedal to the floor in a drag race, but it does so at a sacrifice to throttle smoothness in the rest of the range, which is unacceptable to me.

So, to sum it up, I think the 2300 Curve data (at least on my car/ECU) resulted in the best possible results in terms of those goals: Instant full engine throttle when you stomp the pedal down at any RPM (well, assuming no wheelspin + VDC interference, etc), and a linear, smooth pedal response throughout the pedal's range, to provide for maximum nuanced throttle control for real driving (as opposed to some other maps or the sprint booster, which will leave you with fast and slow spots in the pedal range that don't respond linearly to foot input).

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BigT

Thanks for all your research wstar.

I wonder if anyone could dyno a 370z with ETC off. Should be interesting to see what happens.

zguynate

Wstar thanks for posting your results! I plugged your chart into my electronic throttle and the drivability of my Z changed a pretty good bit. Im really content with your chart.

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2009 370z touring w/sports package

roplusbee

I am interested in the ETC off friving experience. Sounds like it would be the RAW experience that everyone is missing.............at a cost though. Honestly, I rarely use SRM, VDC, or Cruise. Once bad weather hit, I would be missing VDC and SRM and Cruise on that 1600-1800 mile trip home to Baltimore or back. I may check it out once I get back from leave and see how RAW it really is!

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2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift | UPREV | F.I. | Greddy | Competition Clutch | Injector Dynamics | Aeromotive | Pioneer | JL

seymore4

Awesome thread. sub'd for future results. I've got access to a tuner cable so if anyone wants me to modify their tables just shoot me a pm

Jordo!

I was reading up on this in the Uprev manual, and it sounds like the ETC table is important for determining line pressure for shifts under load. If so, what if line pressure was just bumped up across the board and ETC was off?

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wstar

Is it? I don't recall reading that. Line pressures are controlled by the Torque Map table, which is a different thing from the throttle table. Some people bump it by ~5-10% across the board. Raising it even a little bit too much can result in jerky shifts though. The advice I got from UpRev was to datalog (via Cipher) for any slip in the transmission. If you're getting slip, raise the Torque Map values. If you're not, don't.

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ZForce

Very geeky gear head stuff. Subscribed for future reference when I can muster up $$ for a tune. Will be some good data to pass on to the tuner.

ANMVQ

Wstar,thanx man so helpful. but ? So you have all the tables at 3800. I'M going to see mg tuner at 12 and wanTed to see where mine where set. I'm also going to set the fan speeds to low @185 med @200 and high@215. Is that right. thanx man.

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wstar

I'm not sure I understand the question here. The table basically describes points in a 3D square surface. One edge of the square is set at all-3800, but the rest curves off smoothly. Just setting 3800's in the last column isn't sufficient, and neither are any of UpRev's built-in simplistic smoothing models.

Keep in mind all I've done here is experiment on my own car. I don't have other cars to compare with, test on, or look at the stock maps on, so this is mostly for people with a Tuner license who are also willing to experiment.

If you're going to have a 3rd-party tuner try to play with the throttle map from my first post, I'd advise you have them read the whole thing and compare your stock map to the stock map I posted at the bottom of that first post.

I haven't had time to fully explore the fan speed option. I'm not 100% sure how it operates relative to the table until I test it (whether the ECU interpolates between the low-temp column and the next one up, or if they're just switching points, that's my biggest concern).

In general though, the ideal for the fans for me would be: 1) Ignore whether the AC is on or off, 2) Keep the fans off at low coolant temps, 3) Turn them on full blast and leave them on, starting at about 185.

Well, there's also the speed thing. It might make sense to turn them down/off at high speed when the car gets plenty of air on its own. I'm really not sure about this point. I could see useful arguments in either direction. Maybe having them spinning at speed still helps channel more of the incoming air in the right direction (into the radiator instead of around it). Then again maybe it doesn't change anything for the radiator and just adds turbulence, or worse maybe it actually slows down the incoming air to have them on. I have no clue about this stuff, and not sure yet how I'll get data.

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