Experienced Haltech but New to UpRev

Megan370z

seem like I will have to make that little nice tool to listen at the ping/knock sound !!

that will help to keep my engine in better shape !

as for right now this is what my tune look like
Since my whole intake system/exhaust is modified , I still need to do some work on the MAF table using a test Map and then start really playing with the AFR/timing once again on my main map !

Q8y_drifter

How much are you actually hitting at high RPM/load with those AFR targets you set?

BTW, why are your cylinder trims different?

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08 G35 5AT Sedan | Stillen CBE | Invidia HFC | Injen CAI | Uprev Tune | Akebono BBK | Tanabe Coilovers | Hotchkis Sway Bars | GTSpec FSB | Black Headlights & Grille | Volk GT-F Wheels | Hankook V12 Evo Tires

Megan370z

right now the difference between my Wideband and what Cipher read as the AFR are very close to each other now
in stock form the difference between Cipher and the WB was about .5 AFR from mid-high RPM

right now I see a difference of around .2-3

12.5 in Cipher = around 12.7-12.8 AFR on my wideband

My Bank2 run richer than Bank1
Cylinder trim is the fuel adjustment for each one.
the bad part of it , its not mapped like the fuel compensation/ignition timing.

because I ran into a problem during a low load the difference in AFR was not the same then as the load was getting bigger the difference on either Bank was changing.

Unclemeaty

Megan; yours and my Ignition timing maps are similar. I imagine since you have some mods you were able to get ~71 tuned in at higher rpm. In stock form, I was pinging at 70 so I lowered it to 68. Other than that our numbers are pretty close. Did you try tracing the timing through a gear to see if it steps left as I mentioned in my previous post? -Might be pinging. Yes, the RadioShack Mini-Amp might warn you of ping also.

Interesting read about the stock WB vs your aftermarket sensor. You know you can adjust the WB AF vs Voltage rating in Cipher under Options. You'll notice the data supplied by UpRev is not linear. Since you have a 3rd party AF meter you might as well go ahead and calibrate the stock WB in Cipher.

Very interesting about the injector trim. How do you figure out which injector needed more, and which needed less? Reading spark plugs is all I can think to do. Perhaps using a heat gun on the exhaust manifold could be another test. ~1% is substantial.

I have not played much with the MAF tables. I'll have to do my homework before I do though. From your first post I guess this is more necessary especially since you've changed your MAF, TBs and done some other mods. Are you really hitting 22-23 base scheduled fuel with your mods? Mine is onyl hitting ~20.5 stock.

serturbo

Good info, guys. Keep up the discussion.

Megan370z

last summer when I only had my modded exhaust and stock intake system.
I was tuned to 75
but few month ago I decided to do a test and my timing was the same with 70-71
so I lowered it
thats give me about 29-30 BTDC from 7000-7500 RPM
again , that depend on what the AFR is reading,
a drop or higher than .2 AFR will give a different timing value during a run.
its like to be in a sweet spot , if you get out , the bonus in timing is ruined by the wrong AFR

I did do some tracing on the timing map but I never think about what you seem to have found out in your previous post.
in the future I will look at it.
because I always tuned by the way the knock sensor feel, if its pull timing , I do some modification in the map to make the knock sensor happy.


I thought about that but I didn't want to screw up something.


I just did an average from B1 to B2 and modified the whole B2
cylinder 1 is higher but I should set it to the 3 or 5 because they are the one receiving more air than the front one.

before any change , B2 was richer
after the change B1 was just a tiny bit leaner , this is why I only gave 1 cylinder to be richer
I'm trying to have both bank having the same fuel/air doing a data log with the MAF V. and WB


to answer your last question ,
yes I do get in the 22 ,, my max was 22.7
I would guess to be touching the 23 once I install back my modded Throttle Body.

Unclemeaty

I understand. I think I'd try to get a little more specific on precisly which injector needed a boost, and which needed reduction. What you did is probably OK, but what if you lowered one injector in B2 when you should have lowered a different one?

Let me ask since I have not done this yet. If you raise or lower just one injector at a time, does it change how the engine runs at idle? Like, can you tell if the engine gets better or worse? If you can, then you might be able to go through one injector at a time and find the best selection for each.

In my opinion, the injector closest to the firewall which has less airflow and cooling would need more fuel then the ones closer to the radiator fan.

Unclemeaty

From what I believe ~75 would cause mine to ping at high RPMs. I have a feeling your ECU may have been retarding the timing back to 70-71 levels which is why your timing is just the same between those settings. You are probably running safer now than you were last summer if that is the case.

One thing I want to note, is that if ~75 was working on the Dyno, it might not be working on the street. If that is the case, the argument for getting it tuned on the street is very important.

Also, I notice you have mid to high 70s in your timing map at low to mid throttle. Thats definately and area I should look at some more. I wonder if your fuel economy went up from setting those numbers that aggressivly. For me, I have not gone there yet as I've noticed that anything over ~1/3 throttle runs through the right-most 5-6 bars. Anything left of that is all for cruising and economy.

Megan370z

I didnt feel the engine to run bad or anything by just changing a cylinder at a time
and since I never made the tool to listen at the knock/ping I couldnt do much more than to bring each bank to the same ratio with the MAF V. and AFR

as for going more into details , Im gonna wait till I make that headphone

Megan370z

my tune with the 75 in timing was working alright on the dyno and the street
the ECU was not pulling(retarding) timing or anything , it just didnt want to go any higher than 30-31 BTDC

the result was the same with 70 or 75

last , my fuel economy isnt great because I my tune is quite agressive and ofcourse not finish,,
its hard to street tune in the winter here , slippery, snowing. slushy...

Unclemeaty

What grade fuel to you have in Canada? I wonder if its any better than what I have here in the US. That could be a factor for more advancement in your timing. We have special (crap) fuel here in Atlanta. Lots of smog so the fuel is laced with O2 and cleaners.

Megan370z

I use Shell 91 V-Power.

but during the winter they add some additive and some brand are worst than others.
its like running on 87octane normal gas.

If the ECU is pulling timing at high RPM when it should not , I'm waiting for the next gas fueling .
I use to travel a lot which helped a lot to burn the bad gas but now its a bit hard , so I'm not rushing the tuning

Unclemeaty

Well folks,

I just got back from the dyno; boy what an experience indeed. My thoughts and street tune were more off than I ever would have thought. I admit that I must have been fooling with the wrong maps/ideas because my 1st and 2nd run were noticably lower than the stock dyno pull. For the third run, I switched back to the stock base map and the loss became gain; the car returned to stock power for the most part. In all, the tune I've been working with dropped my power by more than 10-20 hp/tq. Not good.

In my disappointment, I must realize the mistake and take this as a learning experiance. Take one for the team so-to-speak. After mulling for a few hours, I've reset my maps back to stock and am anxious to start again from the beginings.

The largest thing I noticed was my ignition timing seems to like to fall flat after about 3 street pulls from 3500rpm upward. Even with the stock/base map and no modifications the first 2 pulls are usually substantially higher in timing than the subsequent pulls. Up to 8 degrees in timing in fact. Although there is a rise/change in oil temp, I didnt think it would account for such a difference in performance? Oil temps are not going above 220.

I think if I figure this timing issue out, tuning this car will get a whole lot easier.

windex

Somehow I forgot that I get 93octane in the deep south.

Megan370z

there is a few possibility that im thinking other than what i said in our PM.
you might be running with to much ignition and&or leaner area which will screw your powerband .

if I'm running to rich (below 12.2afr on a real WB) from what I saw I'm losing a few degree in ignition
but not like it would if the knock sensor feel knock when too much ignition/lean spot.

its to find that sweet spot which will help you !
this is why I think the MAF table should be fine tuned even stock.
thats just to remove a small variable.