Knock warning after ecutek tune

SG4247

I get the flashing cruise light also on ECUTEK. I dont use the cruise so its not a bother for me.

I also had some knock warnings, that I could identify as happening at the with both high octane fuel and 87 on the data logs. The tuner and I decided it was ghost knock and we raised the threshold for the sensors. Problem solved.

ByThaBay

The knock correction system is quite complex. The primary decision making factor is the knock sensitivity map, which is a general one implemented by nissan. Each engine will have its own unique signature. Using my tuning software, I'm able to generate knock sensitivity compensations based off of hundreds of megaytes of log data, producing a very unique knock signature for the engine which can be applied to help the ECU tell the difference between real knock and simply a noisy cylinder/engine.

Using limited log data can work to determine some of these thresholds, but the sheer size of the map and the conditions it covers makes it almost impossible to get accurate results from just a handful of logs.

Once the threshold(s) are crossed the ecu responds by pulling timing respective to how much the threshold is crossed. Timing keeps getting pulled until noise levels stablize. The ecutek knock warning simply flashes when the ecu has corrected the timing by a certain amount. Some tuners leave it at the default -3 degrees, some set it to -6, whereas others disable the feature.

Once the timing is pulled to around -9 correction, the ecu switches to a fail-safe mode map and the corrections can actually appear positive rather than negative.

The more corrections the ecu makes, the more power you will loose. This is becuase incorrect timing off by as much as 2 or 3 degrees will cause a loss of power that will remain until the ecu decides to advance the timing back once it thinks it's safe.

If anyone is interested in learning more or getting their calibration adjusted to be as perfect as possible, please feel free to reach out for assistance. I do all the tuning using data analysis software that I've developed specifically for doing various types of tuning. I require large amounts of data to produce effective results.

Quicksilvers

One thing that was not said here is Nissan highly recommends only using “top tier” gasoline in all of their model vehicles. It is crucial what gasoline you use with the ECUTEK and UpRev tunes for our Z’s. Also if you use generic additive low quality gasoline pinging or detonation can and will happen. People getting a ECUTEK or UpRev tune on any Z need to clarify how they want their tune done before hand.

mag_black

I strictly use 93 Shell or Mobil. Never anything else.

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Jhill

So probably need a little more information on this. Like was it doing this recently after a tune or had it been a lot of miles? What’s your normal driving like, aggressive or mild? Have you actually done some logs and seen just how far out the ignition correction is?

I was starting to get some occurrences as well under part throttle and a decent load like a steady incline and also some occurrences between a 1-2 shift with 7 AT. Most of my driving is pretty mild on the street (I need my license for work and can’t risk being stupid) and it’s been a while since I’ve had a track day. Anyhow mine has cleared up after using some amsoil p1 injector cleaner (which is basically a valve cleaner, other brands have the same stuff) doing a long trip to so cal and some mild pulls where I could, also I added a catch can setup as any oil in the intake system will lower the effective octane rating. This has seemed to clear up the part throttle medium load and has only had minor occurrences over something like the grapevine in summer (steep, high altitude and hot). The 1-2 shift occurrences were cleared up with z1 poly diff kit. Haven’t had an occurrence since however I did all this right before the weather started getting milder (was still summer just not mid summer), so I won’t really know 100% until mid summer again.

In my case with mild driving it can cause more deposits on the backs of the intake valves which can then absorb some fuel like a sponge and make you AF off a little just enough to cause some mild occurrences. Was never bad enough to feel or hear but I guess enough for the sensor to trip.

mag_black

I'm pretty good w/ maintenance on her. I usually clean out the intakes once a year and I have ARC catch can as well. I will try the injector cleaner out. My driving is pretty mild and it does occur a lot on a steep incline. Thanks for the info.

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Martijn_b

Just want to share that I have similar problems. I validated whether the knock was real with a knock monitor, and hear no audible knock. The problem is known with Ecutek and a new update is coming out soon which gives more possibilities to solve this problem.

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Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

Jhill

What’s this update I keep hearing about adding a bunch of stuff it seems in different post. Where are people getting this info from ecutek?

maxjix

It disappeared after replacing the cam sprocket in a car with a knocking value of uprev of 10,000.
Among other examples, after replacing the cam sprocket in the g37, which comes out of up to 20,000, it fell to 10,000. I am looking for other causes.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/camsha...t-p-12786.html

brainrain

Hello,

I have ecutek knock warning at low rpm (1000-2500 rpm). It's mainly on traffic condition (when I released the clutch pedal on 1 st gear) and on highway cruising at 60mph on 6th gear.

It's never happened when engine is cold, only when the engine is warm.

I think I hear the flywheel rattle noise when it's happened.

My current setup is Exedy cluch kit with Exedy light flywheel with oem CSC https://www.ctd-germany.com/en/exedy-clutch-kit

Is it possible to have knock warning with light flywheel ?

Is the noise coming from the engine?

The following video is when I released the clutch pedal on 1st gear :

https://youtu.be/QMYPIHRUg0M

ByThaBay

I can help you troubleshoot. Send me a PM