Car: Stock Year: 2014 Miles: 3880 Dyno: Dynojet Tuner:Trussville, AL I really had no expectations going in. I knew that I wanted to see something north of 275 and I
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12-07-2015, 08:06 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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2014 370Z stock baseline dyno run
Car: Stock
Year: 2014 Miles: 3880 Dyno: Dynojet Tuner:Trussville, AL I really had no expectations going in. I knew that I wanted to see something north of 275 and I got that. Looks like almost exactly 16% drivetrain loss with bhp being 332. Thoughts/input always welcome. I did a total of 3 pulls. The first one we lost the signal halfway though the run and I think it was maybe 240-245hp. On the 2nd run we thought we got it fixed, but didn't get a TQ reading due to there still being a signal issues, but the HP was 278whp. On the final run, we got a reading both hp and tq. I got the idea of take the filters out on this run to see if there was any increase in HP or TQ. A stock F150 that was there earlier had gained literally 16whp from cracking open the airbox, so I figured why not. Much to my annoyance, we didn't see any gain of HP at all. |
12-09-2015, 11:31 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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This will be very helpful for you as you mod the car. As long as you stay with this dyno. I do that always use the same dyno. The F150 was ECOBoost I'm guessing. FI is always easier to make WHP
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12-09-2015, 11:33 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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2014 370Z stock baseline dyno run
The f150 was actually a 5.0. The gain he made really surprised me. I also realized that he car had 89 in it from the drive home from CT (the stations on this exit didn't even have 91 and my refuel light had been on for like 20 miles already). I didn't notice any ping, but I thinking the car may have already pulled a degree or so of timing and maybe I left some power on the table. I may go back this Sunday now that I've filled it up with some true 93 from she'll and see what she does.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by FNR32; 12-10-2015 at 04:39 PM. |
12-13-2015, 06:32 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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manual car's are about 15% & 17% for automatic's. (drivetrain loss)
I see you are pretty rich with your A/F ratio; also didn't see the RPM's. wasn't sure if you hit the speed limiter or rpm limiter. I'll try and find mine & post it-very similar.
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12-13-2015, 06:43 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450006827.393450.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1450006843.443923.jpg
1st run was in 4th gear & he backed out the throttle when the shift light flashed & second run in 5th (1:1 ratio) till speed limiter kicked in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html Last edited by jchammond; 12-13-2015 at 06:45 AM. Reason: PS; Mine had 50,000 miles on it then. |
12-13-2015, 09:29 AM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
instead of the 3.69:1
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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html |
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12-13-2015, 10:42 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Axle code is in door jamb; my automatic has an RC33 (3.359:1) an RC36 would be the 3.69:1, 3.92 would probably be an RC39? Not sure/ haven't seen one.
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12-13-2015, 12:12 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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They Only went to the 3.92 in the manual cars/ the newer automatics got the RC36.
I got the top end machine RC33; would love to drive it with the 3.92 diff. From what i've seen these guy's on the forum post-that the numbers actually go down at the wheels with a lower(numerically higher)gear ratio....some have the 4.08 & 4.36.
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12-13-2015, 01:56 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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did you use walker dyno right there by the railroad tracks?
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