AC Delete?
 

Since I picked up a new DD, I am thinking about deleting the AC to save some weight in the Z while increasing serviceability.

Anyone else remotely interested in a kit that does this? If I do it, like I did on my 350z, I will most likely relocate the PS pump to the AC location. This allowed me to get rid of the PS pipes and run a short, maybe 18" hose from the pump straight to the rack. It made the engine bay a lot cleaner and easier to work in.

Well I certainly expected minimal interest... But this is a resounding NO.

Glad I asked first!

You guys never want the easy stuff!!!

Id be interested to see how you do it. If I was building a track car I'd also want to delete this. That said, I DD mine in the hot south.

Also, do you need power steering in the Z? I'm sure the electronics would flip out. it's not exactly lightweight, but you'd get a good arm workout.

with the weight and tire size of the Z, you would quickly hate not having PS!

I hate not having it in my Spec Miata!!! LOL!

Tracy Ramsey

While deleting the A/C is in the plans it's just not something that I'll be doing within the next year or two (too many other things to worry about first). Additionally, because of SCCA Solo rules I can't be moving the PS pump and stay in the class I'm in.

I tried it once in the 350z. I have my doubts anyone will even make it out of their parking spot before they rethink the decision.

What the heck? They care about where the PS pump is mounted??? See this is why I can never race any sanctioned events!

Just keep making those fuel pump thingies ;).

That's true for me as well in our west coast time attack "Enthusiast" classes. No AC mods.

I am working on the next gen RRP more than anything else at the moment.

The intake manifold is in holding pattern waiting for the casting guy to make some moves. He says 2 more weeks until he start putting full time effort in working with me on it.

Sweet! Excited to see next gen RRP (hoping its good for 500ish WHP!). I'd be interested in the AC delete kit as well. I plan on gutting the car for full cage, etc track duty over the next 12 months.

I don't know, seems to be a bit of headache for only about 20lbs. For a dedicated track car sure but there is really no performance gain since modern cars only engage the compressor when in use.

Twenty pounds here and there might matter, or it OP just wants to clean up the engine bay some.

Or do the mod where you install the A/C compressor backwards to run as a turbo :tup:

For sure. Especially weight off the front of the car. I also did an A/C delete, but kept the PS pump in the same location. The compressor is 15lbs.

I'm interested in the A/C delete but it would have to be really cheap and have really good feature(s) to not just remove it and change the belt.

How did you do this ??? Is there a kit ??? I need a dead pulley to replace the compressor since I am running a SC'r with some other mods and the belts need to follow that path.
There is one made for the GTR motor...does anybody know if it will work?
Thanks,

All I did was removed two idle pulleys (#4 and 7 in the picture) and used a shorter belt. With you having a SC'r, not sure what you could do.

I'm at a weight cross road and Googling ac delete brought me here. I'm interested to see what's in your mind as well as a how to. I really don't wanna do it but my weight ratio blows!

When I am done building the air filter tubing for the turbo kit (around the AC compressor), mine is coming out for good. Ill keep you posted.

What belt do you use after the ac, and 2 pulleys are pulled?

cant answer that yet

:(

I just took everything off in like 30min. Need a belt.

Ok i measured the pulleys with a string and went to advanced auto. Closest thing they had was a 510v5 and a 505v6. Obviously we run a v7 so i had to lose a grove. The 505 is smaller of course and it seems pretty tight so i think im good to go? The only issue is the auto tensioner doesnt have the 2 points lining up saying its tight. Its pretty tight to me! But im guessing they dont line up anymore because ive lost 3 pulleys and re-routed everything. Who knows. If it snaps i hope it doesnt take anything with it.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscrihew6m.jpg

I don't think it could do any real damage. On my old DE custom belt setup, it flew apart once and scared the crap out of me because it wacked a wire out of my oil pressure sensor plug. I was driving straight and had no other indication that I lost the belt... Just was ripping it and then the oil pressure light came on. Needless to say I was relieved when i finally figured out what happened.

Should the tensioner be normal? Its super tight all around except the highest part thats horazontal.

I use this belt on mine, but I can't remember how Z1 routed the belt with the delete
http://imageshack.com/a/img911/4499/njMhfM.jpg

Pic?

Looks like it could be shorter and v7. Mines a 505 and yours could be a 507 or 500.

You can't see the pic? I don't have a pic on the car though, and I don't keep my car at my house.

Sorry shoulda clarified, meant of car.

I used a Gates belt, # K070505. Initially I had bought a Dayco 5070500 belt like other people had mentioned, but it was way too tight.

Bringing this one back.

Ill be doing this delete in the next week or two and need to order a belt. Seems like the Gates K070505 belt and removing pulleys 4 and 7 is the best option, but i want to get others opinions.

anyone

We posted 2 options, mine works mine minus 1 rib.

Can you post a picture of the routing of your Belt on your car please :) it would help me ! Thanks

Delete 4-6-7. The belt then goes straight down 9 to the crank (5), goes under and back up to 3.

I'm wondering if you could delete 3 and 9 also. I know 3 is the tensioner but my WRX and STI have no tensioner. It's a bitch to take the two belts they have on and off but it was doable.