What parts to check after track days to avoid mechanical problems
 

I don't remember exactly how many, but my car has a lot of track days and autocross runs on them. At 31K miles, I figure it is a good time to replace some of the parts to avoid mechanical problems down the road (speaking as a victim of brake line failure in the past). Here are a list of parts I am planning to replace over the winter, could you guys think of anything that I should replace. I plan to place a giant order before xmas, so let me know what I should add.

#1 Four new brake calipers
#2 Four new brake lines (both the short hard lines and rubber lines)
#3 Upper radiator hose
#4 All new wheel studs

1. Calipers or rotors?
2. Buy SS lines and be done with it.
3. Call HPS Silicon. great guys know what they are doing. https://www.facebook.com/hpsperformanceproducts
4. Nah.

5. Brake pads?
6. Brake fluid.
7. Power steering fluid.

8. Get your *** to NorCal vs SoCal at Button Willow :P.

bushings?

I'd say all fluids besides brake fluid (I replace that right before track days).

The car has a lot of hard use on it, all the fluids with the exception of coolant had been replaced. I am thinking about other parts that normally people don't replace on a weekend track car. I know my calipers are looking pretty worn out and should be rebuilt. I saw a GTR losing its wheel studs, I figure it might not be a bad idea to replace them.

Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
Check state of ball joints in front suspension
Check steering tie rod ends
Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)

That will help you while-away the break ....

I will add the serpentine belt to the buy list, but shouldn't they last 60K miles? I will probably just pay someone to check the rest of the ball joints bushing and axles, I know I will miss it.

Belt life is expectation are based on running your engine at <3000rpm - with hi-rev track sessions, belt wear is accelerated.

They need to be inspected for signs of cracks which indicate potential for failure - I would not replace in any event, but I would inspect them

p.s. i added your wear items to the Track Day best practices thread

Good info!

:tup:

also check rotors for cracks

The belt is a good idea to carry with you as a spare. It's not expensive, not heavy or large, but it's not stocked by the average local dealership. Not terrible to replace but could ruin a day.

Purchased

#1 Upper/lower radiator hose
#2 Serpentine belt
#3 All new brake lines
#4 All new calipers
#5 New air filters
#6 New wheels studs
#7 New wiper blade refills
#8 New drain plug washers

$1300 or something ouch

Question: Why are you buying new calipers and not rebuilding them??
Why are you not buying K&N filters and reusing them?

Tracy Ramsey

Cheaper to replace them than to replace Pistons and all the other little items. For street driving they are fine, but my safety is a little more important.

I never like the k&n filter, all they do is leave a big oily mess

How much were new ahebono calipers and from where did you source them if you don't mind my asking?

nissanpartszone, around $1200 for all 4

:eek: I would have pulled the calipers apart, and rebuilt them for under a hundred (price of the seals). Hone the bores, polish the pistons, new seals.

I don't see a reason to replace the pistons and hone the bores unless there is damage, but other than that, I like this method a LOT more than $1200 for calipers!! I rebuild my brakes every year on my Spec Miata...takes about 1 hour a corner to do a VERY thorough job... Maybe something to consider

Tracy Ramsey

That's crazy cheap. I could buy new akebonos 5 times, 15 years worth, for the price of one ap racing radical bbk.

Given all the abuses my car took, the pistons are probably not in healthy shape. Rather than spending $200 on parts and a few hours to rebuild, I can just get it swapped out for a few hundred bucks. You know I can sell the old calipers right? At most $300-500 for 4 new calipers, still cheaper than AP brakes.

I have 3 set of track pads available, so need to get the car in healthy shape enough to play

Better to be safe than sorry, esp with brakes. :tup:

yes I never feel comfortable with the brakes on the 370, mainly due to its crappy ABS. I also lost a brake line before, so I am never comfortable with the brakes.

Ahahhahahaha i saw that video, he lost his wheels cuz the mechanics decided to save a little weight on the studs/bolts, and went with lighter ones. They turned out to be unable to hold the twisting torque.

Ugh...is that one, or the one of the RX7 with SAE lug nuts on Metric lugs worse??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeADBRw9xCo

Good info in this thread, thanks.

I'd have 2 drivers side rear CV joints fail, my 5th and maybe 3th synchro are crapping out. I had my CSC/CMC fail twice but replaced all with Z speed and oem CMC 0 issues now.

I got over 45 track days on my oem akebono calipers, front are hard to push the pistons back in to swap pads but are working wells till, might need a rebuild.

I also had all rear bushings fail, on the traction arm, etc bushing was just laying around flapping around... replaced everything with SPL and all bushings as well