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What parts to check after track days to avoid mechanical problems
I don't remember exactly how many, but my car has a lot of track days and autocross runs on them. At 31K miles, I figure it is a good time to replace some of the parts to avoid mechanical problems down the road (speaking as a victim of brake line failure in the past). Here are a list of parts I am planning to replace over the winter, could you guys think of anything that I should replace. I plan to place a giant order before xmas, so let me know what I should add.
#1 Four new brake calipers #2 Four new brake lines (both the short hard lines and rubber lines) #3 Upper radiator hose #4 All new wheel studs |
1. Calipers or rotors?
2. Buy SS lines and be done with it. 3. Call HPS Silicon. great guys know what they are doing. https://www.facebook.com/hpsperformanceproducts 4. Nah. 5. Brake pads? 6. Brake fluid. 7. Power steering fluid. 8. Get your *** to NorCal vs SoCal at Button Willow :P. |
bushings?
I'd say all fluids besides brake fluid (I replace that right before track days). |
The car has a lot of hard use on it, all the fluids with the exception of coolant had been replaced. I am thinking about other parts that normally people don't replace on a weekend track car. I know my calipers are looking pretty worn out and should be rebuilt. I saw a GTR losing its wheel studs, I figure it might not be a bad idea to replace them.
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Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons. You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub Check state of front and rear wheel bearings Check state of ball joints in front suspension Check steering tie rod ends Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff) That will help you while-away the break .... |
I will add the serpentine belt to the buy list, but shouldn't they last 60K miles? I will probably just pay someone to check the rest of the ball joints bushing and axles, I know I will miss it.
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Belt life is expectation are based on running your engine at <3000rpm - with hi-rev track sessions, belt wear is accelerated.
They need to be inspected for signs of cracks which indicate potential for failure - I would not replace in any event, but I would inspect them |
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also check rotors for cracks
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The belt is a good idea to carry with you as a spare. It's not expensive, not heavy or large, but it's not stocked by the average local dealership. Not terrible to replace but could ruin a day.
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Purchased
#1 Upper/lower radiator hose #2 Serpentine belt #3 All new brake lines #4 All new calipers #5 New air filters #6 New wheels studs #7 New wiper blade refills #8 New drain plug washers $1300 or something ouch |
Question: Why are you buying new calipers and not rebuilding them??
Why are you not buying K&N filters and reusing them? Tracy Ramsey |
Cheaper to replace them than to replace Pistons and all the other little items. For street driving they are fine, but my safety is a little more important.
I never like the k&n filter, all they do is leave a big oily mess |
Quote:
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nissanpartszone, around $1200 for all 4
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