KW v3 track set up?
 

I just ordered KW v3 coilovers and SPL control arms and rear camber arms and I'm looking for advise for a track set up. I still drive the car a little on the street but not much.

How much should I lower the car?

What is your alignment set at?

I personally like the factory recommended specs for hard street driving. As far as height goes, I go as low as I can without scraping to terribly much. Since the car will be both a street and track car you wont be able to go to low as you'll have to make sure you can get over speed bumps and whatnot.

I'm running -2.1 front -1.6 rear camber. Forgot the toe specs. Haven't run it on the track yet but for AutoX I've done 12 front 7 rear for the dampening. Didn't touch the rebound. It's also difficult to adjust the rebound in the front with the shock still on the car. I've gone about 1.5" lower than stock. The car handles extremely well for AutoX, especially with a corner balance done by RT Tuning. Very well balanced, not too much under or oversteer. I've run this setup with my Hoosier a6 295 front 315 rear.

Happy to hear it worked out for you on the cone course.

if the car is a track car mostly then I wouldn't have gone with kw v3, the v3 are mainly a mild street car setup than a track setup. You will notice it is a bit too soft for track once push hard. Either way, it will work.
My alignment is at around -3.3- 3.5 front and toed out, rear is now also at -3.3 (previously -2.2 and 0 toe) and now 1/16 toe in. This has been working well for me for Hankook Rs3

What kind of coilovers would you use?

He's using a $6-9k set of JRZs, LOOOOOOLLLLLLLLL

WOW, I'm not going there!

I don't see one of the important factors....what type of tire?

RE-11s

u'll be at somewhere around -3 and -1.8/-2ish in the rear

Thanks!


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pyrometer tells all

Isn't that for exhaust temps? Please explain.


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it's reads temp measurements from tire and has a probe w a needle, u do 3 readings per tire, outer, middle, inner and see the temps to see if you need more or less camber

Oh, I've been using a gun to check them. My last trip to Sebring Bridgestone had a rep there driving and seeing what kind of tires were being used. After he found out my RE-11s were only a week old he stopped by several time to check on them. He taught me a lot about tires and helped me get the pressures right. We discussed that but until now I haven't had a way to adjust camber.


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Do you adjust your camber at the track? If so how do you not mess up the alignment? I was just looking for a starting point. Thanks for all the input, I'm addicted but still very new at this.


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just do corner balance/ base alignment and go from there

cant use infared gun for tire temps, has to be probe style

Not arguing but I'm curious why? Is there one you recommend?

With the SPL arms. You can adjust caster too. I got mine set at +6. You can run more then that if you want to.

If you try to adjust camber at the track. You are changing the caster and toe settings too. Anytime you adjust either camber or caster. Toe will move.

I have the BC ER series, which are often compared to the KW v3. I'm currently on 275f/305r RS3

Front
-3.3 camber and 1/16 toe out +8 caster with 12k springs, Eibach front swaybar at full stiff. Compression and rebound towards the stiff end.

Rear
-2 camber and 1/16 toe in with 10k springs, Stillen rear swaybar at full soft. Compression and rebound about in the middle.

That's almost my exact setup, cept I have 12k rear, and 10 k front. I am thinking though of swapping the springs around. Is the Eibach front stiffer than the stillen? I have stillen full stiff front full soft rear. I would say the front is still a bit soft with the stillen and 10K springs.

I have Fortune Auto and running 12k front and 10k rear. The front still isn't stiff enough I was bottoming out at AMP in turn 11. I am only lowered as much as the drop Swift springs would provide.

Good to hear. My opinion of 12k Rear is that it is a pretty good rate for the rear, but is maybe a tad on the stiff side. I was having the rear starting to brake loose at chuckwalla which has a lot of high speed sweepers. It wasn't anything too crazy, but it started to skate-was actually kind of fun but not ideal.

I really like the way 12k rear feels in terms of grip and controllability, but I am also wishing I had a wing to keep it planted. I had thought about swapping from 10/12 to 12/10, but I am thinking that more like 15/12 is what I am going to do. My guess is that I might have the same problem in the front once I do that and then require some downforce up there as well.

I would say that overall 10/12 is not a bad setup and is a pretty good stepping stone. However it's not really great either. Front is still to rolly polly, and the rear is actually really darn good, but yeah needs aero to tame it a bit on the high speed stuff.

Without the added downforce I think 10k is good in the rear, at least for me. I am thinking of going up to 14k in the front and see how that works. I do not have to revalve if I only change the spring rate by 2K+/-. I am more of a beginner in this track setup so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I can only comment on how my setup is performing. I am sure you are way faster than I am with more experience in this arena.

An IR gun will show the difference just fine. Not the most accurate, but it can suffice

IR gun for tire temps doesnt get the core temperature. The surface cools off too fast to get a proper reading with the IR gun. its pretty common tire temp data knowledge to use a probe style.

/\ This

Tracy Ramsey

Yes the Eibach front is much stiffer than the Stillen, which is what I before the Eibach. However I want to try even stiffer in the front so I'm considering the Progress front bar next, and/or go up to 14k front springs. I would like to also try the Hotchkis but it is barely stiffer than the Progress and you have to buy the worthless rear.

I have Hotchkis on mine and like them but haven't tried others so I can't compare them.


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