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Fuel starvation, who else?

Originally Posted by Phimosis This is the first sports car that I have ever owned where it shuts off when you drive it like a sports car. I know where

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Old 08-02-2011, 04:19 PM   #166 (permalink)
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This is the first sports car that I have ever owned where it shuts off when you drive it like a sports car.

I know where it's "threshold" for shutting off is, so I try not to push beyond that. Yesterday I came around an off camber cloverleaf from one freeway to another and made sure not to get on the throttle as I came out of the corner until I was mostly straightened out. It didn't shut off, but it went into limp mode where it would start missing if you open the throttle or go over 3,000 rpm.

That's like the 20th time it's either shut off or went into limp mode and I really have been being careful to not pushing it too hard.
Omfg the rims in your avatar pic are HOT!!! Anyways, I have yet to have this fuel cut off issue even on an empty tank lol. Maybe I'm not pushing it hard enough but I've definately made some pretty fast corners and didn't run into this issue.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:24 PM   #167 (permalink)
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spearfish, please check your PMs
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:28 PM   #168 (permalink)
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OH so close here. Our full road-race solution is completely built and ready for testing. we also have a significantly less expensive street solution that should greatly reduce the problem for street drivers that like to take those ramps at 1+ g's... that version is just barely in the works but wont take long, its easier than the road-race one.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:45 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Was talking about fuel starvation to a guy at work. I just came from the glen and was getting fuel starvation after the 2nd lap w a full tank. The guy was saying it might be fuel boiling off in the fuel rails. So he suggested a cold box. Has anyone tried that? My fuel would cut out after taking a sweeping uphill turn into a straight away and would die out at about 6000-6500 rpm for about two seconds then kick back in.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:55 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wh1te370z View Post
Was talking about fuel starvation to a guy at work. I just came from the glen and was getting fuel starvation after the 2nd lap w a full tank. The guy was saying it might be fuel boiling off in the fuel rails. So he suggested a cold box. Has anyone tried that? My fuel would cut out after taking a sweeping uphill turn into a straight away and would die out at about 6000-6500 rpm for about two seconds then kick back in.
Interesting idea, but doubt it considering my problem is largely remedied by controlling the amount of fuel that gets picked up by the main pump

Stay the course
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:29 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wh1te370z View Post
Was talking about fuel starvation to a guy at work. I just came from the glen and was getting fuel starvation after the 2nd lap w a full tank. The guy was saying it might be fuel boiling off in the fuel rails. So he suggested a cold box. Has anyone tried that? My fuel would cut out after taking a sweeping uphill turn into a straight away and would die out at about 6000-6500 rpm for about two seconds then kick back in.
Uphill right-handers are the worst possible scenario given the pickup location. Higher RPM's are sucking more fuel which is why it is more likely to happen, but even up shifting early it will still happen just a lap or 2 later. For the Glen all the esses are uphill and there are a couple of other slightly uphill right-handers.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:39 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Your slicks are generating some nice g-forces, I didn't hit fuel starve when I was at the Glen.

Of course now my fuel pump or one of the component is rolling around in the gas tank.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:03 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Uphill right-handers are the worst possible scenario given the pickup location. Higher RPM's are sucking more fuel which is why it is more likely to happen, but even up shifting early it will still happen just a lap or 2 later. For the Glen all the esses are uphill and there are a couple of other slightly uphill right-handers.
I didnt have any problems with the esses. Turn 1-4 were basically my favorite turns there. The only problem was the Toe of the boot (Turn 8) turn 9 into 10 was a slight up hill but not as bad as 8.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:24 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Man! I have tracked my car for two summers now and havent experinced this issue yet. Went crazy hard at the track 2 weeks ago all the way down to 1 dot of fuel! Today at 1/4 tank, took a sharp right hander on to an off ramp going uphill at full throttle , nothin! Sputtered , ran a bit, finally died. Of course parked on a uphill wont start at all. Just sputtered . Towed it to the dealer and it ran fine! Drove it home ran fine. I was still at 1/4 tank 20 min to gas station. Put $20 bucks of gas and it only went up 2 dots! Wtf? Any of you experienced pros of fuel starvation want to tell me what to change?
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:32 PM   #175 (permalink)
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I'm not sure why the fuel gauge isn't registering but the rest sounds very familiar. The engine will eventually cut if you keep on the throttle and starve it of fuel. And it may vapor lock on you and not restart right away. Will eventually restart good as new - no need for a tow.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:03 PM   #176 (permalink)
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The fuel gauge has a mind of its own, read one of many posts about it.

Question, is the fuel pump accessible underneath the plastic foam in the trunk or do you have to drop the pump to get to it?
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:39 PM   #177 (permalink)
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The fuel gauge has a mind of its own, read one of many posts about it.

Question, is the fuel pump accessible underneath the plastic foam in the trunk or do you have to drop the pump to get to it?
You have to drop the tank.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:46 PM   #178 (permalink)
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to get to the fuel pump is extremely easy. You can get to it in under 5 min.

behind the passenger seat is that little carpet "shelf". The shelf is held in with 4-6 push clips. Get a small pry tool under it and just pop it straight up. Pull out the sound insulation sheet, pay attention to how its in there because its a little tough to cram it back in when youre done, so its easier if you remember which way it was positioned. Then remove the 4 10mm bolts on the fuel pump access port cover. Lift up / rotate the panel enough to reach in and unplug the connector from the top of the fuel pump.

There you have it. If you want to remove the fuel pump assembly, take out the 6 8mm bolts. Things to remember... do not do this unless you have half tank of gas or less, and the less the safer. If you open it up full tank, you will make a mess because the fuel pump is not at the highest spot in the tank, so when you take out the 6 bolts gas will spill all down the side of your tank.

Another note... there is a 4.25" or so diameter Oring that seals your fuel pump assembly to the gas tank. If you plan to remove those 6 bolts and lift up the assembly, you may want to have a fresh oring for when you reinstall. they expand and become extremely difficult to reuse. i have the trick down to cramming in an expanded one, but first timers will waste hours trying to get that sucker in right.
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:07 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Cool! That's a lot easier than dropping the tank!
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:22 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Yeah. I wonder what is the work involved in removing the gas tank (dealer is doing it). I assume dropping the exhaust, driveshaft and other stuff?
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