Time for the 10s.

FPenvy · 08-22-2014, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z eliminator

If you have the sport package, just get 18 x 10.5 + 12 offset rims I have volk t-37s and M/T 305 35 18 drag radials fit perfectly. You can put the 26 X18 X 6 M/T sports man tire on the spare tire rims on the front, 36 lbs tire and rim vs 53 for the stock tire and rim.

The car goes perfectly straight down the track with 21 to 23 lbs of air in the back, and 48 to 50 lbs in the fronts.
All motor with bolt ons getting 1.80, 60 ft. times .

Z

my wallet hates you for this by the way.....

dammit. ok someone go find me some 18's lol

Z eliminator · 08-23-2014, 11:39 PM

Before you get the wheels and rims, you can also change the brake rotors to racing brake 2 piece rotors, you will also save some weight there.
It all helps in getting the 1/4 mile times lower,

Z

AlexRaymond19 · 08-31-2014, 01:15 PM

What would be an ideal alignment for my setup? I have 305/30/19's.

I'm running pretty close to 0 camber in the rear, But I did a few test patches and I still don't get the full tire width of rubber. And it is a lot more dark on the inside of the tracks. I'm also on swifts

phunk · 09-01-2014, 05:28 PM

removing all the negative camber is all you can really do.

if you are willing to run the rear suspension stock height, it wont camber negative as far when it squats.

AlexRaymond19 · 09-01-2014, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

removing all the negative camber is all you can really do.

if you are willing to run the rear suspension stock height, it wont camber negative as far when it squats.

Is there any other way? I hate the look of the stock hight...

I suppose I could run a smaller rim with a bigger side wall to fill it in a little

AlexRaymond19 · 09-01-2014, 09:49 PM

Would running a stiffer spring help as well?

phunk · 09-02-2014, 03:43 PM

Theres not really any other way. The relationships between the control arms are what cause the compression camber. The lower the car sits, the faster it cambers in with compression. You could possibly try and raise the crossmember closer to the chassis to sit a little lower without altering baseline control arm angles, but probably not much at all.

Stiffening up should help some. Reducing weight transfer to the rear will reduce compression. Generally you would want more weight on the tires, but I dont think it helps if it causes so much camber. You would have to experiment and see what works best for you.

Rusty · 09-02-2014, 11:38 PM

In the rear. Stock height, 0 camber, stiff springs, and have shocks on the rear that have adjustable compression damping. Have the damping set on the stiffest set. This would keep it from squating, BUT you will have issues with weight tranfer. You could have weight transfer with shocks in the front that lets you adjust the rebound damping. You would adjust that to the softest setting. This will let the front come up quickly, loading the rear.

Super Werty · 09-03-2014, 12:07 AM

try taking off the front strut brace to allow better weight transfer(in theory)

Hotrodz · 09-03-2014, 12:33 AM

^^Yup I'm no expert, but I've heard even removing the front sway bar can help...

wstar · 09-03-2014, 01:54 AM

Or you could leave the Z at home and bolt a rocket to a shopping cart

AlexRaymond19 · 09-03-2014, 12:47 PM

Is there a way to block off the suspension so once it's at 0 camber it can't go down anymore?

phunk · 09-03-2014, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19

Is there a way to block off the suspension so once it's at 0 camber it can't go down anymore?

The camber is only a static number when the car is not moving at all. It doesnt just start to camber at a certain height. The wheel is mounted to arms that swing up and down... they mounted to the chassis and pivot. So its like swinging your arm up and down. You could not move it at all without changing the angles.

G37Sam · 09-03-2014, 04:55 PM

It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on CAD or some suspension software (unless you feel like deriving the system model mathetically - Phunk probably did that already haha) and see how it behaves. From there you'll discover that you'll have to redesign the arms which will basically force you to rework the entire subframe. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

clintfocus · 09-03-2014, 08:16 PM

ALL THIS TO COUNTER WHAT IS GOOD WITH THE Z!!!! :P (FlameSuit engaged by Road race guy :P )

08-23-2014, 11:39 PM	#122 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	Before you get the wheels and rims, you can also change the brake rotors to racing brake 2 piece rotors, you will also save some weight there. It all helps in getting the 1/4 mile times lower, Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

08-31-2014, 01:15 PM	#123 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 15	What would be an ideal alignment for my setup? I have 305/30/19's. I'm running pretty close to 0 camber in the rear, But I did a few test patches and I still don't get the full tire width of rubber. And it is a lot more dark on the inside of the tracks. I'm also on swifts __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

09-01-2014, 05:28 PM	#124 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	removing all the negative camber is all you can really do. if you are willing to run the rear suspension stock height, it wont camber negative as far when it squats. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

09-01-2014, 09:49 PM	#126 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 15	Would running a stiffer spring help as well? __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

09-02-2014, 03:43 PM	#127 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	Theres not really any other way. The relationships between the control arms are what cause the compression camber. The lower the car sits, the faster it cambers in with compression. You could possibly try and raise the crossmember closer to the chassis to sit a little lower without altering baseline control arm angles, but probably not much at all. Stiffening up should help some. Reducing weight transfer to the rear will reduce compression. Generally you would want more weight on the tires, but I dont think it helps if it causes so much camber. You would have to experiment and see what works best for you. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

09-02-2014, 11:38 PM	#128 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,191 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	In the rear. Stock height, 0 camber, stiff springs, and have shocks on the rear that have adjustable compression damping. Have the damping set on the stiffest set. This would keep it from squating, BUT you will have issues with weight tranfer. You could have weight transfer with shocks in the front that lets you adjust the rebound damping. You would adjust that to the softest setting. This will let the front come up quickly, loading the rear. phunk likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 09-03-2014 at 12:23 AM.

09-03-2014, 12:07 AM	#129 (permalink)
Super Werty Track Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: AZ Posts: 668 Drives: '13 Sport Rep Power: 13	try taking off the front strut brace to allow better weight transfer(in theory) __________________ The Build

09-03-2014, 12:33 AM	#130 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	^^Yup I'm no expert, but I've heard even removing the front sway bar can help... __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

09-03-2014, 01:54 AM	#131 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Or you could leave the Z at home and bolt a rocket to a shopping cart DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

09-03-2014, 12:47 PM	#132 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 15	Is there a way to block off the suspension so once it's at 0 camber it can't go down anymore? __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

09-03-2014, 04:55 PM	#134 (permalink)
G37Sam A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Dubai, UAE Posts: 1,507 Drives: RB'd G37 Rep Power: 20	It's a multi-link suspension in which caster, camber and toe vary as the links move. You'd literally have to get the arm lengths (distance between mounting points) model them on CAD or some suspension software (unless you feel like deriving the system model mathetically - Phunk probably did that already haha) and see how it behaves. From there you'll discover that you'll have to redesign the arms which will basically force you to rework the entire subframe. Please correct me if I'm wrong. phunk likes this. __________________ '14 Viper GTS '08 RB'd G37S - Sold

09-03-2014, 08:16 PM	#135 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	ALL THIS TO COUNTER WHAT IS GOOD WITH THE Z!!!! :P (FlameSuit engaged by Road race guy :P ) Rangerz likes this.

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