Time for the 10s.

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).