Time for the 10s.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 03:18 PM

I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in.

The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it.

with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in.

The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it.

with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it.

anytime i've ever pre-loaded the throttle all i got was wheel spin. even only at low rpm's just spins and spins.

best time i ever had was 12.89 @ 111 and that was just holding the brake until mashing the gas when i wanted to leave the line.

only preload would maybe be whatever delay that could come from when i hit the gas with my right foot as i am releasing the brake with my left foot lol

phunk · 08-12-2014, 03:36 PM

i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 03:40 PM

what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup!

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use.

but still with any track use there's always a chance of failure on some stock parts not designed for it. so i worry sometimes since i really enjoy runnin the car. its a good time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup!

car has never been aligned nor have i ever had a problem with alignment.

this year i've had no wheel spin issues on the tracks even though one i dont think is well prepped lol

but i am running RE-11s this year over last year running PSS's. however last year the PSS's delivered my best time. that was also spring running vs summer running. conditions have not been too favorable this season when i've ran. typically higher humidity any night i have time to go lol it's like mother nature knows.

phunk · 08-12-2014, 04:16 PM

sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same. Especially in a bolt-on NA car.. because in that case, the parts on your car absolutely *were* designed for it.

you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though.

FPenvy · 08-12-2014, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same.

you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though.

yea i think the PSS's ran a much harder compound than the RE-11's. the RE-11's feel much softer and proven by the fact i never found rubber around my wheel wells like now lol

but i do drive my car a bit harder than most and it's my DD.

for the alignment part i just never seen a want to have it adjusted for drag specific use considering i DD it and as i said before i love driving it hard and corners are plentiful in western PA. same goes for all the other "tricks" people do for ET time. my best time was full weight and full gas with 32psi in the tires. was good enough for the #5 spot but sadly i've been dropped to #7 or 8 now

this is why i'm getting the itch again to reclaim what is mine lol

phunk · 08-12-2014, 04:36 PM

i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues.

Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless!

Arrvaxx · 08-12-2014, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues.

Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless!

That is a good point...and I am finding it to be very true.

Rid3_FaM0uS · 08-13-2014, 09:15 AM

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

( Click to show/hide )

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

for space reasons i shortened your post but where in Ohio are you racing? i race in PA OH and MD. i may be able to help find you a track with some leeser attention to "details".

i run low 13's at a OH track and never have been told to wear a helmet and they also allow passengers if you're at a 11.99 or slower i believe cant remember. sadly the end of the run seems to go slightly uphill to start the shut down part of the run. so you may see a little bit slower times there.

Mitco39 · 08-13-2014, 09:51 AM

We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story).

For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example.

"11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements."

Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules.

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story).

For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example.

"11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements."

Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules.

we have street night at my local track every friday too.

when i tech'd in the guy just checked my drivers license, insurance papers, and registration. didnt even look at my car and put a number on my windows. sooooo yea if you guys wanna come run without any limitations i know a palce lol

but yes convertibles need roll bars still.

wstar · 08-13-2014, 10:18 AM

You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec.

But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday.

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec.

But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday.

i think i just get passed over for a full insepction since its a newer car, not comin in on a trailer, state inspected, etc..

now my one buddy with a older civic who comes sometimes yea he gets inspected lol

08-12-2014, 03:18 PM	#61 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	I also have the whiteline diff bushings. I busted my rear-most mount the time I went to the track, so I swapped them in. The only time I ever really get wheel hop is in the rain. I think I got some in 1 of my passes at the track. I only brought up wheel hop because its an axle buster... I dont think its a regular problem, just wanted to mention to let off if you happen to get it. with an auto trans car it is far easier to preload the drivetrain before launch without even thinking about it. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 03:36 PM	#63 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	i would still preload, just not go full throttle immediately when letting off the brake. start lower and ease into full throttle. an auto car doesnt need to worry as much about preloading though... your not dumping a clutch from higher rpm. You are either brake torque launching which is already full preloaded or doing your throttle mash which isnt going to shock the drivetrain like dropping a racing clutch. ultimately it doesnt sound like you dont need to worry about your drivetrain much at all since your 7AT, i dont really imagine anything breaking from occasional drag use. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 03:40 PM	#64 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	what it really sounds like is you need some better tires and alignment. you shouldnt really be having issues with wheel spin on a prepped track with a bolt-on NA setup! __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-12-2014, 04:16 PM	#66 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	sure, but your car doesnt know the difference between the track and street. so it just depends on what kind of driver you are. if you rarely floor it anywhere, then I can understand staying off the track because you dont like abusing the car. but if you floor it everywhere anyway, then its all the same. Especially in a bolt-on NA car.. because in that case, the parts on your car absolutely were designed for it. you dont have to have a problem with an alignment to get better traction out of a different alignment. there are a few ways to get better rear traction in your car, alignment is just one of them. if you were able to solve your traction issues with new tires, than it sounds like you dont need to worry about it. I was just addressing the fact that you said your car is nothing but wheel spin if you try and launch it. i guess you were referring to a previous setup though. FPenvy and Mitco39 like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 08-12-2014 at 04:23 PM.

08-12-2014, 04:36 PM	#68 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues. Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless! FPenvy likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-13-2014, 09:15 AM	#70 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this. 13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker: -A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster. -A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required. 11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker: -Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels. 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker: -A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. The 5-points are: Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal). -Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date) -5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em). __________________ Always under construction. . .

08-13-2014, 09:51 AM	#72 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story). For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example. "11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements." Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

08-13-2014, 10:18 AM	#74 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec. But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday. Rid3_FaM0uS likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Long time member, first time poster - Finally bought a Z	Shoemanfoo	New 370Z Owner	4	02-24-2014 06:00 PM
Long time admirer first time owner	Jersey370Z	New Forum Member	9	03-18-2013 11:50 AM
Does anyone's transmission clunk from time to time when pushing the clutch in??	chitown1863	Engine & Drivetrain	21	04-13-2010 09:22 AM
Long time Lurker...first time poster	cuzzinz	New Forum Member	5	01-26-2010 02:24 PM
First time owner - long time admirer	ZCarGo	New 370Z Owner	15	03-20-2009 03:25 PM