Time for the 10s.

GSS138

Hey Arvaxx you are thinking in the right direction, but have the wrong idea here I think.

Dropping the front low will actually add more weight to the rear. But dropping the rear will just counter act that.

Think of a suspension as 4 guys holding up a pallet full of dirt on all 4 corners.

FL FR
RL RR

If Mr. FL bends his legs and lowers down. It is going to get "heavier" for everyone else. Especially Mr. RR-his cross partner.

Now imagine that instead, Mr RL and Mr. RR both lift their hands and press the whole thing up. There is now a ton of weight on the rear.

Now imagine that while they have the rear raised in the air. FL and FR in turn both raise, their hands above their head. It's now equally distributed again.

(I am assuming of course these 4 men are clones with equal strength height and arm length.)

The point is you can add weight to the rear, by either lowering the front, or raising the back.

Lower too much, and it's just like doing a squat where you put your a$$ all the way to the floor-it becomes very hard to stand up- and, if your back is bent to much(camber out), you are going to lose the leverage of your legs.


The "Correct" height(if there is one) is this:
Street car-60% of shock travel length exposed(the silver piston thingy) and usable for compression. (makes nice smooth ride)
Road race-50/50 of shock travel length exposed used for compression/Bump (handles a variety of unknowns)
Drag car-40% of shock travel length xposed 40 for compression 60 for rebound (not worried about bumps in the road or ride quality, just want to put the power back on the ground.)

Don't flame me it's not a hard rule, but a good guideline.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.