Time for the 10s.

Arrvaxx

Alright...I was reading a thread about the AAM twins and SharpByCoop asked the question (paraphrasing), "Why are 350s so much faster than 370s?" He suggested that the fasted 350s are 2 seconds faster than what is listed below.

Is it that 350s are raced and dragged more? I could see that.

And why are 600hp with over 500lbs of torque beasts only 1 second faster than a BASE SPORT on STREET TIRES? - 1) jnaut ------------ 09 Base Sport 6MT 12.245 @ 111.81 mph 1.813 60ft street - Yes jnaut has some mods but I don't see anything more than would account for the 7 tenths he is faster than a stock on streets. Clearly he and Z eliminator are half a second better drivers than the rest of the list (props) but based on the numbers SharpByCoop and TerribleONE are equally ahead of their 'class'. (T-ONE wasn't Dan from F.I. driving your car for that 11.493?).

I suspect that it comes down to an inability to get the power down to the asphalt. I can light my tires up in third on my 91 octane tune on street tires for goodness sakes.

It's time for the boosted among us to step up and represent the cars and turbos we love. In 2015 we need to join the 10 second club.

Step 1: Get your cars on the strips and post the numbers. What worked? What didn't? How much boost were you running? Tire profiles?

Step 2: Anyone with extensive strip time needs to help the brothers and sisters out! Lowering air pressure in the back...duh. But what else?

My first ever strip run is in a few weeks. I'm starting on street tires with a 91 octane tune and don't care how many gears I miss. I -will- make the 10s in 2015 and it will be a community effort. So lets get busy!

FORCED INDUCTION
1) SharpByCoop --GTM TT S2-- 08 G37S coupe 5AT 11.130 @ 123.93 mph 1.677 60ft DR
2) TerribleONE ------FI TT-- 10 Tour ----- 6MT 11.493 @ 124.32 mph 1.766 60ft ET street
3) *Billy02987 --GTM TT S2-- 09 Tour Sport 6MT 11.736 @ 122.59 mph 1.942 60ft street - driven by jnaut
4) Nismo370 -----GTM TT S1-- 09 Nismo ---- 6MT 11.759 @ 127.14 mph 2.157 60ft street
5) Brazilbro ----GTM TT S1-- 09 Base Sport 6MT 11.812 @ 126.51 mph 2.020 60ft street
6) 98intrigue ---custom ST-- 10 40th ----- 6MT 11.852 @ 119.61 mph 1.880 60ft DR
7) Seb@SZ -------GTM TT S2-- 10 Base Sport 6MT 11.961 @ 122.13 mph 1.843 60ft DR
8) *RCZ --------Stillen SC-- 09 Tour Sport 6MT 12.207 @ 116.34 mph 2.034 60ft street - driven by jnaut

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Arrvaxx

Question 1: I have a TurboSmart eBoost 2 controller and have been reading that you can set it up to change max boost by gear. Has anyone done this? I wonder if I can set it up to provide no boost in 1st and 2nd? It has to be almost zero because I spin on spring pressure (7lbs).

Question 2: We all hate the VDC. What other options are there? Either aftermarket or tunes? In fact, how does the VDC help with wheel spin? Does it apply brakes? I know some launch controllers like the Racelogic shut off fuel to a single cylinder (rotating through the 6) to reduce power when the wheels slip. This question comes from the understanding that I will need help controlling the spin...which I am ok with because I think everyone does. So if that is the case saying 'you should just learn to ease off the throttle' is not an acceptable solution. Clearly -everyone- is having this problem to different degrees.

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wstar

VDC/TCS is pretty easy to disable fully. Remove the Bosch yaw sensor that's underneath the cup holder in the center console. It *is* valid to say one should learn to control wheel slip with your inputs (feet/hands); that is part of drag racing.

At the low speeds you're caring about here, the only way to gain more mechanical traction is with wider tires, stickier rubber, suspension changes, and/or more weight in the trunk.

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G37Sam

Look into a drag setup traction control and boost by gear to get a perfect start off the line.

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DEpointfive0

I think phunk said this... RAISE YOUR CAR!!!
The suspension geometry of the 370Z is really shítty to say the least. Dial your car to 0 degrees camber, 0 toe, stiffen the shít out of the rear spings so that it can't squat so much and camber/toe in, and presto chango, 10 second times.

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Arrvaxx

This is related to a question I came up with while laying in bed...yeah my wife is used to me not sleeping.

I was thinking about height and thinking that I should drop the front as low as I can but then I thought about it again and realized that it might be better to lower the rear to get more on the wheels early. Anyone done this or disagree. I don't want to add weight if I can get the same effect messing with the heights.

You think it is that easy DEpointfiveO? If it is then I'm going for the 9s.

I'll have to look at the BC ER setting options and see what I can do. I'll post some thoughts and get everyone's thoughts.

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Arrvaxx

I was referring to people that would reply with -only- 'Learn to drive' crap. I'm just saying that I do not believe that getting to the 10s is all about the driver. That was my real point.

Although if any one does have a professional drag friend let me know. Once I get this all worked out I would love to put the car in the hands of someone that does 1/4s for a living-ish.

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Mitco39

All you have to do is look at the trap speeds to know that these cars cannot put the power to the ground. A 120+MPH trap speed is more than enough power to bring down the time. The 60Ft only places a small part of it too, the 1st to 2nd gear change on these cars really sucks.

You guys are right about the camber in the rear, all you have to do is some 11'ses on the highway and go back and look at your marks and see how little of tread is actually being left on the road.

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2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

Mitco39

ET is ALL about the driver and the control of his car in the first few seconds of the run, Trap speed is about the power your putting down. For example I ran a 12.7 at 121mph up here. My speeds are in the ballpark of everyone else, but my time sucks because of the way my car is setup and my crappy launch.

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2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me
2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me
The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her
My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

DEpointfive0

Lol, no, I don't think it's actually that easy, BUT it will be a LOT easier if you buy some camber arms and SPL midlinks (because I know the rears on BCs are true type) and go with 12k+ springs in the rear too, and I bet you'll see times improve dramatically.

At the same time, (in my mind) the goal for boosted cars should be to get the F out of 1st gear too (unless you're on drag radials, even then it might be tricky) or go to the auto pumpkin/gear ratio

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GSS138

There is a good post on here by someone that describes the rear camber problem with our car when weight is transferred to the rear. He mentions doing a burn out, and then measuring the width of the tire mark. It will indicate how much of a contact patch you have with the ground. He basically proved to himself that a good portion of the rear tires was not touching the ground due to too much negative camber.

The cure for something like this(besides building new control arms) include:

Way stiffer springs in the rear. Probably want to be running 12K+ springs in the rear.

Corner Balance the car, and as mentioned, raised the rear to distribute the weight and get it over the tires. Think about the drag cars you see on TV. Driver in the rear, all the weight possible over the rear tires.

suspension should be setup 40/60 on your shock travel, 40% for compression travel 60% for rebound.

Smaller front tires, less friction up front. Swap em at the track if need be.

You need weight over the rear tires to increase static load, this is accomplished by raising the ride height of the rear coilovers. If you are on stock suspension or even just lowering springs, it's not going to cut it.

Once the weight is over the rear tires, need to keep the rear arms from moving and cambering the tires out, you do this by using stiffer springs in the rear, and then dialing in the rebound.

EDIT: the other single biggest thing you could do would be installing a proper differential.

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Arrvaxx

I have, will have, BC ERs. I want to keep their springs default as I think they allow for a wide range to cover applications from street, to drag, to track...I know we can get times down if we drag-mod the car and I don't want to do that. But I am willing to add bits that allow for more customization even if that customization is purely for the strip.

I have SPC rear camber arms but need to have the extended range dremel thing done. I didn't do that when I put them in and can't remove any more camber.

I had planned on picking up a cheap as hell set of wheels...super wide rear narrow front and putting DRs on the rears. I can't see anyway around this the car needs wide for the track. ...need to get one of those tire trailers.

Good point about the diff. Let's see what I can do without it.

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Arrvaxx

That was another question: 4.08 gears offer any advantage here? NOT going to install gear ratios that make street and track a nightmare.

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brancky3

Good point... I ran a 12.7@110mph in my old Audi A4, a 11mph difference in trap speed is HUGE.

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DEpointfive0

Run spares up front

I highly doubt making the gear ratios more aggressive will help unless you can fit 15" wide slicks

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