Time for the 10s.

Arrvaxx · 08-12-2014, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

i also see no reason to change your alignment if you have adequate traction now. but on that topic, to just remove some of the negative camber doesnt hurt DD use at all. You wont notice the difference on the street to just remove some of the negative camber. But again, no reason to if you have no wheel spin issues.

Those of us with higher HP have to change our alignments, and full time. Its not just a drag specific alignment adjustment... its a full time adjustment to make the car more usable in all environments. The factory alignment with over 500rwhp makes the car pretty much useless!

That is a good point...and I am finding it to be very true.

Rid3_FaM0uS · 08-13-2014, 08:15 AM

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

( Click to show/hide )

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

for space reasons i shortened your post but where in Ohio are you racing? i race in PA OH and MD. i may be able to help find you a track with some leeser attention to "details".

i run low 13's at a OH track and never have been told to wear a helmet and they also allow passengers if you're at a 11.99 or slower i believe cant remember. sadly the end of the run seems to go slightly uphill to start the shut down part of the run. so you may see a little bit slower times there.

Arrvaxx · 08-13-2014, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this.

13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

Seriously? Did I read that correctly? A 5 point roll bar...at 11.49? Holy crap! That seems a bit, no a LOT, excessive. How far are you from the state border and other options?

Mitco39 · 08-13-2014, 08:51 AM

We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story).

For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example.

"11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements."

Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules.

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story).

For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example.

"11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements."

Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules.

we have street night at my local track every friday too.

when i tech'd in the guy just checked my drivers license, insurance papers, and registration. didnt even look at my car and put a number on my windows. sooooo yea if you guys wanna come run without any limitations i know a palce lol

but yes convertibles need roll bars still.

wstar · 08-13-2014, 09:18 AM

You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec.

But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday.

FPenvy · 08-13-2014, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec.

But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday.

i think i just get passed over for a full insepction since its a newer car, not comin in on a trailer, state inspected, etc..

now my one buddy with a older civic who comes sometimes yea he gets inspected lol

Rid3_FaM0uS · 08-14-2014, 10:29 AM

I have a track run by a group of older men about 45 minutes north of me that are pretty lax on the rules of inspection my biggest worry is that the stopping distance is far too short. Never the less NHRA rules are NHRA rules. The track I would like to do my 9 second test runs is Kilkare speedway south of Dayton but they are VERY strict about their rules(or at least any time I've gone they are)

Z eliminator · 08-14-2014, 11:41 AM

if your car is a 2009 and up . it can run 10's and not require the above.
but you have to convince them that the car is stock .
eg. the GTR 's can run with no cage as long as it does not go 9.99's.
nhra rule's

Z

FPenvy · 08-14-2014, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z eliminator

if your car is a 2009 and up . it can run 10's and not require the above.
but you have to convince them that the car is stock .
eg. the GTR 's can run with no cage as long as it does not go 9.99's.
nhra rule's

Z

guess my tracks dont care then lol

my buddy ran 9.82 in his GT-R about 2 weeks ago with no cage.

EDIT: changed the ET i was slightly off but still under 9.99

Current Setup
9.82 @ 146.53mph

Rid3_FaM0uS · 08-14-2014, 11:22 PM

That's impressive as hell I hope I can dial in the Z that good. It ain't to hard with a GTR it doesn't seem it's just the cost to get it there haha

FPenvy · 08-15-2014, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

That's impressive as hell I hope I can dial in the Z that good. It ain't to hard with a GTR it doesn't seem it's just the cost to get it there haha

yea AWD and a car thats built to do it stock is a nice start lol

my boy still has the fastest stock GT-R 1/4 ET as well i believe. think it was a 10.29? i'll have to look it up. it's on GTRlife forum.

Rid3_FaM0uS · 08-15-2014, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy

yea AWD and a car thats built to do it stock is a nice start lol

my boy still has the fastest stock GT-R 1/4 ET as well i believe. think it was a 10.29? i'll have to look it up. it's on GTRlife forum.

I must agree! This having to re invent the wheel thing quite frankly sucks! Gosh could you imagine if our Z Cars could go deep 10s stock!?

FPenvy · 08-15-2014, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

I must agree! This having to re invent the wheel thing quite frankly sucks! Gosh could you imagine if our Z Cars could go deep 10s stock!?

yea i mean this rumor of a turbo'd V6 merc engine going into the next Z with 400+ HP is quite interesting. a stock turbo engine is a great starting point for modding. taking a NA engine like we do and going boost just starts trouble from the start lol

oh and i found his times.

2013 GT-R (Jet Black)
Quickest and Fastest Showroom Stock GT-R: 10.79 @ 126.80mph

FBO except factory catback on e85 full weight
10.19 @ 134.73mph

Current Setup
9.82 @ 146.53mph

08-13-2014, 08:15 AM	#2 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	bear in mind the issues I'm running into with most big name, and properly prepped tracks here in Ohio. I just don't want you to get heart broken when you're on the verge of breaking out of the 11s, and the track advisor escorts you off because you're not NHRA compliant. Unfortunately now a days its more than just building a power plant and shooting for the desired times like I was expecting going into this. 13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker: -A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster. -A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required. 11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker: -Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels. 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker: -A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs. Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. The 5-points are: Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal). -Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date) -5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em). __________________ Always under construction. . .

08-13-2014, 08:51 AM	#5 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	We have a event at our track every friday that is essentially if your car is street legal you can run it down the truck (however they usually run others in between as well which is a pissoff but another story). For us up here the rules differ from the ones posted above, for example. "11.50 Roll Bar Rule Update: This group is limited to any unaltered 2008 or newer foreign or domestic, production type automobile or truck that is street driven with proof of registration, vehicle insurance with valid license plates. These vehicles are limited to street events, test & tune and select import events. Competition in the facilities normal weekly ET bracket series under these parameters is prohibited. These vehicles may run provided all of the criteria listed within this section is verified prior to participation. Unaltered 2008 OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 10.00 and 135 mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Sportsman ET safety rules except for the following: Convertibles and T-top entries must meet the minimum specifications listed in ET Bracket section for roll bar and roll cage requirements." Essentially they had include this because there are some factory cars that would fail these NHRA rules. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

08-13-2014, 09:18 AM	#7 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	You can often get away with bypassing the safety regs, because yeah, most sup-pro-level events don't have the staff to check every car thoroughly anyways. So long as they've at least told you what you're supposed to be doing, it gives them a little liability coverage in court if you get hurt and your car wasn't up to spec. But keep in mind those safety recommendations are there for a reason. It's probably better in practice to be doing more than your time strictly requires, if you don't want to be a drag-strip statistic someday. Rid3_FaM0uS likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-14-2014, 10:29 AM	#9 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	I have a track run by a group of older men about 45 minutes north of me that are pretty lax on the rules of inspection my biggest worry is that the stopping distance is far too short. Never the less NHRA rules are NHRA rules. The track I would like to do my 9 second test runs is Kilkare speedway south of Dayton but they are VERY strict about their rules(or at least any time I've gone they are) __________________ Always under construction. . .

08-14-2014, 11:41 AM	#10 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	if your car is a 2009 and up . it can run 10's and not require the above. but you have to convince them that the car is stock . eg. the GTR 's can run with no cage as long as it does not go 9.99's. nhra rule's Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

08-14-2014, 11:22 PM	#12 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	That's impressive as hell I hope I can dial in the Z that good. It ain't to hard with a GTR it doesn't seem it's just the cost to get it there haha __________________ Always under construction. . .

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