CJ Motorsports Road race pump...
 

...I have to say is one of the top three best modifications to do to a 370z. Yesterday I was at Buttonwillow raceway testing out the unit. Worked flawless even at a 1/8 tank and under. Car's handling is completely transformed with the reduced fuel weight. Had to re configure my rear damper settings because of it. Thanks Phunk for a great product and all the help.

Clintfocus,

Great news. Any installation tips, tricks, or best practices? Mine gets here the 30th with installation right after.

I am the wrong person to ask since my install was twice as involved. Because of my roll bar placement I wasn't able to remove the pump out of the top. Had to drop the subframe and tank to install lol

Remove both seats so that you will have room to work in. Once you remove the fuel pump and float level. Get all of the gas out that you can. Then get a small camera. Take a couple of pictures with it inside the tank. This will give you an idea of what you are working with. I held the camera in one hand and stuck it down inside the tank and used my thumb to push the buttom. When you mark your hoses. Mark them with something that gasoline won't remove. Magic marker will come off with gasoline. ;)

At the end of it all, one of the last things you do is put the 3 nuts back on the fuel pump container (don't worry, this will make sense once you get it all). Make sure to put Teflon Tape on those 3 studs to make sure there is no "weeping" from the container!

Tracy

Thanks Rusty looked at your thread and the install manual about 10 times already :bowrofl: the seats are coming out and will do with the gas level. Charles said to use thread sealant on the top 3 nuts as well.

It will be nice not to worry about topping the damn thing off after each session:ugh2:

Rusty you and I have similar suspension did it make any difference in handling that you noticed?
If I run into any problems I'll shoot a PM out to you guys if you dont mind.

No problem with the PM. :D

I used RTV black on the 3 nuts and studs sticking up.

It does make a differance in handling when the tank is less then a half. You can push harder. I'm faster for a shorter period of time. Because my tires go away faster. LOL

nice. how was BW with the fresh repave?

I am very happy to hear that it performed without issue!

My largest fear with the RRP product is that a problem pops up out of no where and ruins someones track day. There are so many out there running now that I know it functions off a pretty solid theory. At this point I would be very surprised to hear of it leaving someone stranded on a fluke, except for the one thing that has happened to 2 people now... a clamped hose pops off in the tank. Its happened to 2 people now pretty much right after installation... luckily before they made it to a track day.

I suspect that since the blue jacket on the hose does not agree well with gasoline and seems to sort of tighten up and contract, perhaps it causes the clamps to loosen up a little bit since the hose has slightly reduced in diameter. So I would advise to tighten the clamps a little extra in anticipation of this slight contraction.

Here is a copy and paste from a post I made on the original RRP thread a while back:

Major Update: Before putting the final lid on the assembly, I never actually said to put the surge can fuel pump output hose on the fitting and clamp it. If your car is running, you intuitively connected this. If your car isn't running, you follow instructions better than the other guys

Minor Update: Apply teflon thread sealant to the 3 studs before final install of the 3 nuts with sealing washers. Those 3 studs used to be bolts, and therefore needed no sealant. But it was found easier to install by switching to studs and nuts, so the threads themselves need to be sealed since those threads go all the way into the can. Without sealant, there could be very minor fuel seepage visible... I do not foresee a DRIP or anything, but more like some wetness on top of the unit without thread sealant.

^^^ These were notes that I intended to add to the installation manual, and just never did (slacking).

I just looked at the dates, it appears we are about 2 months shy of 2 years since member Mike was the first to really test the production unit on the road course.

I cant believe its been that long, and its still working flawlessly!

The problem I had with the hose popping off inside the tank was my fault. I didn't place the clamp on the hose high enough. :shakes head: And the hose worked it's self off the fitting. :shakes head:

Well, I ran my tank down to 2 gallons (just to test) and ran an almost complete right hand turn track with a long right hand sweeper (8 seconds?) and watched the fuel light go on, the low fuel warning blinking no miles left, and she kept on running with no hiccups.
The one thing I DO notice is that the fuel level indicator seems to be a bit inaccurate showing lower fuel than I actually have when the tank starts getting low...maybe by a gallon or two...but nothing major.

Tracy Ramsey

I believe the fuel gauge readings become erratic at low tank levels when there is a lot of slosh going around. For regular driving, the fuel level readings shouldn't have any noticeable difference since the height of the fuel level sensors is unchanged.

just reread this. Its not that I can't believe it still works after two years, its just that it doesn't seem like I've had it two years. I expect it to continue to work flawlessly for years to come.

I also can't believe I've had the car 5 years now. I have never owned a car this long. Of course, as a track car, its unsellable now, but still.

LOL honestly I figured it would have entirely dissolved inside the fuel tank by now :)

it was good, smoother in alot of areas. Also a few of the curbs have been fixed so you can drive over them without issue. the overall grip wasnt up to par yet but it will be in prolly a month or so of track events. it got really hot though so that was making the surface grip lower also

Well been working on the install for about 4 hrs with a dinner break thrown in. I have the surge canister manifold in just have to do the final adjustment of the fuel lines then onto the next step.

Other than my arms looking like I was in a knife fight with a mini Edward Scissors hands "the lip around the fuel tank access holes is friking sharp:shakes head:

ill finish it up tomorrow.

my hands looked exactly the same after, so dont go to a spicy crab resturant after the install untill you heal up LOL

Ol' bay. LMAO


Installing LTH's is worst. Felled like I got into a fight with a pissed off puddly cat. :eek: Think the worst think that did happen to me. Was having a string slip off one of the hoses on the right side, and the hose falling into the tank. It was the last hose I had to hook up too. :shakes head: Meaning I had to pull the stock fuel pump back out. :mad:

Ditto. Also, good luck not getting gasoline in those cuts and feeling that through the whole process :)

I barely had a gallon in my tank during the install and I still got fuel all in my cuts

Ok what is the trick here. Trying to connect the lines to the fuel pump... i have had he pump in and out about 5 times trying to get things lined up better but, no joy! I know it can be done because you guys got it but i dont know how the hell you can get the #2 line to bend and put on the barb.

Here is where im stuck. Anybody got some advise?
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...psy0qo40uo.jpg

Got some issues now. I was taking off the driver side level sensor and broke the chip. Dont suppose any one has a spare or knows if i can order just the sensor?

Now What?

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdowdeqvx.jpg

Bend over and grab your ankles.

To install the hoses. You kind of have to have the pump half in and half out of the tank. Takes about 3 hands if you're not worthly. Have the elbow clamp loose so that you can turn it. Makes it easier to line up and install the hose. Then tighten the fcck out of it. And make sure you fix your float first before installing the pump.

"Fortunately" it was the driver side chip that broke because you don't have to buy a full fuel pump module, the driver side one is : SENDER UNIT-FUEL GAUGE - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Not "cheap" but not expensive

How did that happen?!

I just texted a customer who has a totaled Z to see if he has that part available

So finally got the hoses on and the pump all reinstalled. Found a replacment level sensor on ebay for 55 bucks, it should be here Tues. Started routing the wiring and found a post from Rusty on the cicuit breaker location. Where are you guys mounting the relay and what are you using for chassis ground? Oh and if you find your o ring has swelled throw it in the fridge for about 30 min, fit perfect.

Circit breaker location
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskiuwdp5s.jpg

I didn't see any release tabs, screws etc.. to release it so was prying it up to see how it was attached with a small watchmakers screwdriver. Pried to hard apparently. Found a replacement for it on ebay so no worries.

It is just a press fit right?

No it's not a press fit... There is a little finger tab on the right side of the sensor. I can't see it in your photo so it might be broken off of yours. You push the tab in and slide the sensor up. When installing, the sensor slides down and snaps in with the tab

****:mad: I'll be more careful when I get the replacement.

You mean I had a defective level sensor tab all along:eek: Nissan will be hearing from me ASAP:icon14: I know it had nothing to do with the mechanic:confused:

Thought I would wrap up some comments on my install on the RRP.

I received the replacement Fuel Sender unit on Friday the 8th. I broke the circuit board on the stock unit prying instead of using the tab.

I already had the RRP lines run, the stock fuel pump modified and installed, and the RRP manifold in from the previous weekend when I broke the circuit board. So when I got home Friday after work I took the replacement level sensor off and ran into my first issue.

Looks like late 2011 Nissan changed the design of the sensor plastic base. I contacted Phunk who confirmed the difference. The problem with the change are 3 small tabs that won't allow the sensor to sit flush against the surge canister mounting plate. In addition to that they must have added some material to the slot area because it is a little thick and won't seat on the RRP mounting flange. I ended up filing the tabs down and filing the top of the flange tab a little to get it to seat properly.

Here are a couple of pics I tried to mark the area that was removed with black magic marker.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...psweovk0gj.jpg

With the material not removed this is where it will not seat onto the RRP mounting plate without removing some material.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/a...psor8bjq1h.jpg

So with that filed down and mounting properly I moved on to installing the surge canister which went fine with one exception. CJM has moved the small slit for the 2 sensor wires to face towards the front of the car instead of the back. I was using that as a reference point and thought it may have been made on the wrong side. Contacted Phunk again and he ensured me is was fine and that they did move it to the front so the sensor wires had a shorter distance into the canister. So got that in and now I'm ready to fire it after knocking out some odds and ends.

Added 1 1/2 gallons of fuel: This becomes important later!!!!

No fire:mad: Contacted Phunk again, he gave me some suggestions had to be the pump not running or the lines not connected right. So I spent the better part of the night texting with Phunk trying what he said and texting back. Threw in the towel for the night at about midnight.

Sat: After Friday night didn't go well the only thing left to do was pull the stock pump and inspect it again. So messed around for about 2-3 hrs getting everything disconnected and finally got the thing out. I went though all the connections fuel lines and electrical and low and behold the + & - pump wires were not attached, well shvt I know I connected them but, after having such a difficult time prior to this I was second guessing everything I had done and reconnected everything and re-tightened all the clamps.

So back into the tank with the pump "THE HARD PART":icon14: actually not that bad after you have done it once and know how much you can push, bend, cuss, and throw ****. So got it back in and all buttoned up and go for another refire.... Same thing she cranks but no fire:eek: Fvck, damn and every other word was said. Contact Phunk again:bowrofl:

Ok out with the pump again...well almost out while I was pulling it up I could get it a an angle where I could see the power connectors at the pump. + terminal disconnected. No way I can get needle nose pliers in there to reconnect it, "damn do I need to pull this fvcking pump again"....NO, I ran up to a military surplus store and bought every pair of medical forceps they had available. Worked like a charm and got it reconnected buttoned back up and go to crank it over NO FIRE still. Well what in the Fing hell is going on here????

Fuvk it then I'll just pull the whole thing out and start from the beginning..that was the frustration talking. So decided to pull the the RRP and manifold back out so did that and plugged the stock side in and cracked it "Fuel should be coming out tube #1". Pump is spinning but, nothing coming out of any of the lines. OK now what??????

Well the first thought is damn I'm going to have to pull the pump out again. Then against what you would normally do at this point; I had this thought. Maybe the pump isn't priming for some reason. Well if I had to pull it again putting more fuel in and having to pump it out later is no biggy. So I added another 1 1/4 gallons 2 1/4 total estimated. Crank it and fuel is coming out #1 line :tup: So put the RRP back together and installed and it finally fired up at 11PM Sat evening. Done for the night.

So in closing here.

#1. As frustrated as I was with this at times Phunk answered all my questions and even some that he thought were pretty dumb.

#2. Use RTV around the 3 nuts that hold the canister. I used thread sealant which didn't work completely. 1 nut had some seepage.

#3. Over time their have been some changes to the appearance of some of the parts in this kit which aren't updated in the instructions. the

#3.5 When connecting the 3 lines to the fuel pump you have one hand manipulating the hose onto the 90 deg brass fitting and one hand one the other side to get them seated. What was happening is I was getting into the + & - fuel pimp wires and dislodging them from the pump connector. CHECK THOSE. When the whole pump canister is extended my wires has maybe 1/2" of slack so it doesn't take much to knock them off.

#4. Be patient

#5. I asked Phunk if I had the record for install issues. He was being nice and I don't think ever said a definitive yes. Probably not the award someone wants but, I'll own it :tup:

#6. The system works. With 2 1/4 gallons on my test drive we have a tight 180 deg right hand on a on-ramp that I ran it around a few times, no hiccups at all.

I have a track weekend coming the 16 and 17th. Looking forward to that with the new fuel system.

PHUNK Thanks for the help:tup:

After not hearing from you for a while I knew you either driving the car, or digging up the box for my return address and using google earth to find a high point with a clear line of sight.

Glad its running. The good news is that you probably have more experience than anyone else with it now. You should install them for people for money! I am sure you would like to do it again now, right? :)

For money hell no.... the install I had was so frickin fun I would do it for free:ugh2:

Oh and forgot to add in Comment 3.5

The reason the pump connections kept coming off was during the fuel tube installation back onto the 90 brass brabs. Very little room and when I was working the fuel lines on from one side my fat *** fingers were pushing from the other and pulled the connections off. WATCH OUT FOR THAT IT WILL SAVE YOU ALLOT OF TIME.

make sure and get some miles on it before the track day! definitely want to get some shakedown time on it

Yep I have 50 or so on it now and will get some more during the week probl 200 or so driving to work and back.:tup: