CJ Motorsports Road race pump...
 

...I have to say is one of the top three best modifications to do to a 370z. Yesterday I was at Buttonwillow raceway testing out the unit. Worked flawless even at a 1/8 tank and under. Car's handling is completely transformed with the reduced fuel weight. Had to re configure my rear damper settings because of it. Thanks Phunk for a great product and all the help.

Clintfocus,

Great news. Any installation tips, tricks, or best practices? Mine gets here the 30th with installation right after.

I am the wrong person to ask since my install was twice as involved. Because of my roll bar placement I wasn't able to remove the pump out of the top. Had to drop the subframe and tank to install lol

Remove both seats so that you will have room to work in. Once you remove the fuel pump and float level. Get all of the gas out that you can. Then get a small camera. Take a couple of pictures with it inside the tank. This will give you an idea of what you are working with. I held the camera in one hand and stuck it down inside the tank and used my thumb to push the buttom. When you mark your hoses. Mark them with something that gasoline won't remove. Magic marker will come off with gasoline. ;)

At the end of it all, one of the last things you do is put the 3 nuts back on the fuel pump container (don't worry, this will make sense once you get it all). Make sure to put Teflon Tape on those 3 studs to make sure there is no "weeping" from the container!

Tracy

Thanks Rusty looked at your thread and the install manual about 10 times already :bowrofl: the seats are coming out and will do with the gas level. Charles said to use thread sealant on the top 3 nuts as well.

It will be nice not to worry about topping the damn thing off after each session:ugh2:

Rusty you and I have similar suspension did it make any difference in handling that you noticed?
If I run into any problems I'll shoot a PM out to you guys if you dont mind.

No problem with the PM. :D

I used RTV black on the 3 nuts and studs sticking up.

It does make a differance in handling when the tank is less then a half. You can push harder. I'm faster for a shorter period of time. Because my tires go away faster. LOL

nice. how was BW with the fresh repave?

I am very happy to hear that it performed without issue!

My largest fear with the RRP product is that a problem pops up out of no where and ruins someones track day. There are so many out there running now that I know it functions off a pretty solid theory. At this point I would be very surprised to hear of it leaving someone stranded on a fluke, except for the one thing that has happened to 2 people now... a clamped hose pops off in the tank. Its happened to 2 people now pretty much right after installation... luckily before they made it to a track day.

I suspect that since the blue jacket on the hose does not agree well with gasoline and seems to sort of tighten up and contract, perhaps it causes the clamps to loosen up a little bit since the hose has slightly reduced in diameter. So I would advise to tighten the clamps a little extra in anticipation of this slight contraction.

Here is a copy and paste from a post I made on the original RRP thread a while back:

Major Update: Before putting the final lid on the assembly, I never actually said to put the surge can fuel pump output hose on the fitting and clamp it. If your car is running, you intuitively connected this. If your car isn't running, you follow instructions better than the other guys

Minor Update: Apply teflon thread sealant to the 3 studs before final install of the 3 nuts with sealing washers. Those 3 studs used to be bolts, and therefore needed no sealant. But it was found easier to install by switching to studs and nuts, so the threads themselves need to be sealed since those threads go all the way into the can. Without sealant, there could be very minor fuel seepage visible... I do not foresee a DRIP or anything, but more like some wetness on top of the unit without thread sealant.

^^^ These were notes that I intended to add to the installation manual, and just never did (slacking).

I just looked at the dates, it appears we are about 2 months shy of 2 years since member Mike was the first to really test the production unit on the road course.

I cant believe its been that long, and its still working flawlessly!

The problem I had with the hose popping off inside the tank was my fault. I didn't place the clamp on the hose high enough. :shakes head: And the hose worked it's self off the fitting. :shakes head:

Well, I ran my tank down to 2 gallons (just to test) and ran an almost complete right hand turn track with a long right hand sweeper (8 seconds?) and watched the fuel light go on, the low fuel warning blinking no miles left, and she kept on running with no hiccups.
The one thing I DO notice is that the fuel level indicator seems to be a bit inaccurate showing lower fuel than I actually have when the tank starts getting low...maybe by a gallon or two...but nothing major.

Tracy Ramsey

I believe the fuel gauge readings become erratic at low tank levels when there is a lot of slosh going around. For regular driving, the fuel level readings shouldn't have any noticeable difference since the height of the fuel level sensors is unchanged.

just reread this. Its not that I can't believe it still works after two years, its just that it doesn't seem like I've had it two years. I expect it to continue to work flawlessly for years to come.

I also can't believe I've had the car 5 years now. I have never owned a car this long. Of course, as a track car, its unsellable now, but still.