Bolt a plate to the stillen making it larger in diameter. Then bolt the 2" pipe on like I mentioned. Boom! Haha

I don't think they are. I have zero room in between my caliper and wheel as it is and we have the same wheels. From the wheel to caliper I'd say I have maybe 3/8th room.

This has a pic of the Stillen ones: Product Update: STILLEN 370Z BRAKE COOLING KIT - STILLEN : STILLEN . Yes, I could copy it and mod my copy try to fit two in tightly, but when you see where it mates on the hub and how much room there is before you hit other things or get outside the inner rotor intake area, it's kinda tricky. I have a thousand other things to work on besides trying to fab that in my spare time. Hence asking if they were selling theirs :)

Larger rotor hat != larger rotor diameter. You can make the hat wider and the outer rotor ring narrower and fit in the same diameter. Just eyeballing it from photos, I suspect their Stoptech kit is like that relative to my AP Racing one.

What about using brake cooling ducts like the Porsche gt3 uses. They attach to the lower control arm and scoop air fro under the car. They aren't that expensive online, just not sure if they could be easily adapted to the 370z.

enkei 18x10 with 38 offset
 

hello,

Anyone else running Enkie rpf1 or others with a 18x10, 38 offset and spacers?

If so what spacers? Or can anyone help with what spacers I would need?

It would be greatly appreciated. I need to go with wheels quick and need some help.

And for mostly street do not want to put 10.5s on it.

Then there is forgestar F14s as well.. as second pic

Help please!

I'd like to know as well. I wanted to sell my setup for that size but I'm 99% sure I'd have to run spacers front and rear defeating the whole purpose of the rpf1. Not only would I gain weight overall but I'd gain weight on the rear axle hurting performance.

I have been using Enkei PF01 in 18 x 9.5 ET35 and 265/35R18 R-specs for the last 2+ years, with a 25.4mm spacer on the rear and a 12.7mm spacer on the front. I'm not able to exploit a wider rim given our category rules in "Modern Sports Cars".

Spacers are machined concentric to the hub and the 75mm centre-bore of the Enkei wheel and since I used ARP 75mm extended studs I also torque-up the spacer onto the ARP studs and then the wheel also.

This does give a slight risk of a stress riser on the ARP studs with torque reversal between braking and power-down but the length of the studs exposed to torque reversal is modest because we machined the spacers to ensure that the nuts securing the spacer are only 40/thou below the spacer face that the wheel seats to.

Even so, I am not a big fan of spacers, so I've lifed the studs to 100 track days/competition events which at my rate of competition in the Z34 is 4 years.

I would actually be interested in getting a set of those double ducted backing plates as well. Group buy from the race team fab shop??? heh

BGTV8, would you mind explaining your last post a bit more?

I just ordered a set of 18x10 +34 F14s and plan on running a small spacer in the rear, perhaps 10 mil. I have not done the spacer thing before. Best option? Doing research, just looking for opinions also. I think the answer to this would be of benefit to people reading this thread so not making a new one at this point.

My :twocents:, I prefer bolt on. You don't stress out such a long stud then, arp or not.

There are 3 types of spacer:
1. Spacers that come with their own studs - use the OEM studs tro snug-down the spacer to the hub, then use the studs on the spacer to fit the wheel to the spacer. Porblem with these is that "if" the nuts securing the spacer to the OEM studs come loose, you can lose a wheel worst case, or get a bad vibration at best.

2. Spacers that are not fixed to the hub at all - there is a photo earlier in this thread showing such a spacer on one of the Doran Z34 race cars

3. My style of spacer ... spacer does not have additional studs ... simply fit the spacer to the hub over the extended studs, and use lug nuts to secure the spacer to the hub via the extended length studs (ARP 75mm long in my case), then put the wheel on and use another set of lug nuts to secure the wheel to the same stud that secures the spacer to the hub. If the spacer nuts come loose, then the wheel cannot come adrift .....

Sorry, but I don;t have any photos, and a picture would be worth 1000 words in this circumstance.

Hope this helps clarify my original post.

If you do not have extended studs, then you will have to use option 1 or 2 above.

If you use lock tight and torque the bolt on spacer tighter than the wheel, in my case 100lbs, it will never come off. That'd be like saying all wheels just secured with lugs nuts could fall off. It just doesn't happen.

Well my 18x10+34 (Forgestar) fit fine (if very slightly wide at stock camber) in the front, and use a 10mm spacer in the rear (but that's just cosmetics, you could go anywhere from 0 -> 20 on the rear spacer there and be fine). So I would think you could go 18x10+38 with a ~15mm spacer in the rear and be fine. They're just 4mm further to the inside than mine.

One of the bonuses of the cheap Forgstars is that they're made-to-order and you can spec whatever offset you like.

I'm running the same setup (forgestar 18z10 +34). This is one of the cheaper square setups and not a bad wheel. No spacers needed to run them all around. As with any aftermarket wheel on this car though you will need extended studs (or bolt on spacers with longer studs) to get adequate thread engagement with aftermarket wheels. see below.

http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ud-length.html

I was under the car today looking if this would work. A couple of issues Posche calipers are on the back side (rear) of the disc. You maybe could fabricate some CF for the 370 but, I think the effectiveness is downgraded with the more twist and turns. You would also need to contend with our sway bar endlinks. Bottomline is the Porsche has a straight shot onto the rotor center where we do not. The idea might work but, I think we would need to come from the back side of the lower control arm to make it work.

over steer with stock tire setup
 

Will the square setup help with oversteer?

The front turns in nicely but rear seems to come round pretty fast.
Not really interested in spinning out in traffic. So have been careful.

is front 18*10 +45, rear 18*10 +15 with 275/35/18 all around still a square setup?