The good and bad of R comps at the track

critical

yeah idk why anyone here wants to run centerlocks?

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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms|

Fizzer

I've seen people make longer trips than that on DOT slicks, but it may or may not be a great idea depending on your route, situation, and risk tolerance.

As you said, dry warm weather is of course a must. Also keep in mind though that Hoosiers are much less robust than street tires. Debris that a street tire would shrug off could cause a puncture on an R6. They're made that way on purpose to be as light as possible.

Other things to consider: need to run higher cold pressure than you would at the track. You'll pick up and spit out all kinds of dirt and rocks that street tires wouldn't. Lower traction on any kind of dirt / gravel patches.

Baisically, if you're super careful and the roads are in good condition with no threat of rain, you should be ok.

Here's Hoosier's take on it (cover their butts for liability): NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE: All Hoosier Racing Tires including DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires are designed for racing purposes only on specified racing surfaces and are not to be operated on public roadways. DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department Of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. Exception-"PRO STREET"

Also read this: http://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/warranty/HOOSIER.pdf

wstar

Single-nut hubs and airjacks start sounding appealing when you're trying to swap 4 wheels in the paddock and it's 95 outside and you're soaked in sweat and exhausted from a hard session But, yeah, not worth the cost and customization for the single-nut, and not worth the cost or weight for the airjack system for DEs.

This thread has really made me review my tools and methods for changing wheels at the track, though. Lots of little things, like:

1) Using my low-profile jack sucks. It's actually pretty huge, and heavy, and it lifts slow. It's one of the normal ones you find at parts stores, and I have to first reach under and fit a little adapter onto the pinch weld. I should look at spending on a proper racing jack, and maybe welding some little flat plates under the car along that pinch-weld area and marking them with arrows on the rocker panel so I can just shove the jack under and pump 3 times and be done.

2) I'm going to start using a cordless impact to reinstall lugs, too. I picked up a 65 ft-lb torque extension stick ( this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-75520 ) just to keep me from being stupid while fatigued and ease my transition from being anal about these things, and then I'll finish with a quick hit with the real torque wrench for final tightening.

3) I've been using those little tuner-style open-ended nuts with the silly socket adapters which slows me down too, so I'm going to switch over to plain-jane bulge-cone-seat open nuts with 17mm hex on the end of them (this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-30027 ). I think I can fit a regular 17mm deep socket into the holes in my Forgestars.

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cossie1600

The stupid aftermarket lug key is a big waste of time. I hate those piece of poop

The harbor freight jack for 68 works great

critical

failure rate is exponentially higher with centerlocks. i've seen a gt3 lose a wheel on the road. there's a reason porsche guys convert to 5 lug setups.

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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms|

wstar

Well, maybe Porsche's stuff they put on streetcars, but F1 cars, LMP cars, Indycars, etc seem to get by fine with a single nut. The design could be very different; I have no idea what Porsche does.

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critical

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Quaife w/ gears |Stillen Gen 3|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes |SOLD FI 18'' | 25row Stillen Race | Progress 35mm/25mm sways | Swifts/Koni|Volk G25's| Stoptech SS lines||SPL Front/Rear Arms|

wstar

Now you're just trolling :P

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sig11

That is awesome. I want a set. :P

We know all about utes here and we're jealous. :P Well... most of us anyway.


I have been pretty happy with my harbor freight 3ton steel jack. It's a bit bulky but not terrible and it goes up pretty quick. I never bother with checking the pinch welds or using an adapter. I just try to center the jack on them and lift. Haven't bent one on the Zs yet.

wstar

I'm not so much worried about bending the weld, I'm more worried about the big square head of the jack crushing into other unrelated things (like the rocker panel or the stuff to the inside underneath, etc). The pinch weld just isn't the lowest point, and its channel is kind of narrow.

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cossie1600

Mine is completely forked, it's fine