Nope.

The question was asked. I answered it. ;)

And the Porsche guys pay big money to switch back to lugs............

Anyways, this is the other half of the ez-mode solution: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=6208 . There are other vendors and options you could go with, but I'm sure the basic tradeoffs don't vary a ton:

Cons:
$3K down the drain
Adds 22.5 lbs to the car (mostly way down low)
Have to add a high pressure air tank to your track gear

Pros:
Connect hose, flip valve, car pops up off the ground enough to change all four wheels.

Don't forget, more traction means more strain put thru the suspension too.

Look for increased wear on wheel bearings, susp bushings, and the like.

How does it take you that long to change tires? :) I can swap wheels in 15 minutes or less with a decent floor jack and an electric impact.

I am slow, it takes me an hour. I hate the stupid aftermarket lug nuts.

This is a chart, roughly showing how much more grip the A6 has. I dont know if it is the gearing, but the car seems to be slightly slower down the straight with the slicks. It could be temp too

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/822/5vp4.jpg

Could be that when you're headed down a straight at high speed (and thus don't really need any real grip for accel in any direction), the extra surface area and grip is just more "rolling resistance" of a sort.

The hub noses Brian made for my car are awesome. Then we used longer studs. Makes changing wheels very easy. Good electric impact wrench and wheels go on and off very quickly.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0l.../IMAGE_198.jpg

Agreed, you only need air-jacks and single-nut fixings if you are into enduro's at a professional level OR you want the bling.

I have used lug-nuts and a quick-lift hydraulic jack (6 pumps to lift 450mm) for 40 years in state and national-level competition without any issues. In the old days, we used to carry a bottle of compressed air and use a rattle-gun, but the 18V electric rattle guns are brilliant these days.

The only time it takes more than 10-15 minutes to change wheels is if I need to change pads at the same time, and that is now extremely rare.

Yep nice race jack and high quality electric impact wrench. Two pumps car is up and bam bam bam bam bam bam wheel is off. Did it for couple years before my trailer. I could change tires by myself in less than 10 minutes.

And I will comment that one is under driving a6 if mistakes are being covered up. They are quite forgiving under limit. Things get more interesting at limit and mistakes take on a new meaning as your moving much faster. Streets just allow you to recover from mistakes a little easier ...A6 not so much

:shakes head: I'm jealous.




:tup:

Those hubs do look pretty sweet!

Do you guys impact your lugs back on as well? I spend way more time putting wheels on than taking them off, and I suspect that's because I'm pointlessly wasting time on things that don't matter as much as I think they do. I sit there and hand-turn the lugs down to initial snug and ensure the wheel is flat and the cone seats are centered first. Then I do a star-pattern with a regular wrench and ballpark them to ~40-50 by hand, then go back over it again with a handheld torque wrench to 85.

Then again I've seen trackside shops toss a wheel on a car and use an electric impact. They put all 5 on straight to final torque one by one and they're done, and I guess they assume everything will seat itself given sufficient torque. I can hear clicks like an automatic torque limiter, but I don't know if that's in the gun or in some socket-adapter? When I try googling, I never turn up much except those solid torque-limiting extension sticks, which I'm guessing just flex when they reach their limit.

Wheel goes on, hand-start the lug-nuts to ensure they are not crossed (I use ARP extended studs as they have the first 15mm machined to make it all but impossible to cross-thread) and then rattle first one fully home, make sure wheel is properly seated, then rattle the rest home with the electric rattle-gun - my gun rattles to ~70 ft/lb on first hit - if I let it blaze away, it will get to 85-90, so I stop on first hit to avoid over-tightening with the gun.

Drop the car onto its wheels and torque to specification, tools in the bag, tool-bag and wheels in trailer, latch down, hitch trailer, gear bag in trunk and drive off. Sum total ~15 minutes, less if my buddy is along to help (in which case he drives the ute (short for utility) and it is an even quicker process).

For those who don;t understand the Aussie ute - it is a bit like the old Chev C10 truck except it is more of a car front half with style-side rear box and lid to take all the gear. They drive just like a car .... example here ... Ford Australia - Ford Falcon or Holden Ute - Safety - 2014 - Australia

wstar, I went back to my data. It does seem like the likely cause was the air temp being 10F + cooler in the first session than the rest of the day. It was simply the engine making more power, also it did appear I had a great run onto the straight. The larger tire did hurt my acceleration off the slow hairpin due to the gearing I got from the bigger diameter. Still, it's just a combination of everything.

I agree longer studs will help, half the time is spent trying to put the hot lug nuts back on the tiny little holes for the lug nuts. I really miss the OEM lug nuts