One oil cooler is not enough

SunsetZ · 05-08-2014, 01:38 PM

I installed the largest Setrab cooler available for the Z and on the third 25 min session at PBIR it hit temps high enough to limit rpm. The 13 and 14 model year cars have a collar between the engine and oil filter that uses engine coolant to help "cool" the oil. I have a feeling this is actually heating the oil instead when a separate cooler is installed. I took it off to see if I could just put a return on it and not use that coolant thing, but there needs to be a new threaded fitting made to be able to connect the Setrab directly to the engine. Anyone know if these are available?

I turned the heater to full blast and that helped get some heat off the engine, but in Florida even with the windows down, that is not comfortable. Any ideas on how to have the heat set on max, and get that air directed outside the car instead?

Shamu · 05-08-2014, 06:10 PM

What size setrab are you using? Have you considered putting larger aftermarket oil pan on the car? How about upgraded radiator too? What kind of oil are you using?

Rangerz · 05-08-2014, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SunsetZ

I installed the largest Setrab cooler available for the Z and on the third 25 min session at PBIR it hit temps high enough to limit rpm. The 13 and 14 model year cars have a collar between the engine and oil filter that uses engine coolant to help "cool" the oil. I have a feeling this is actually heating the oil instead when a separate cooler is installed. I took it off to see if I could just put a return on it and not use that coolant thing, but there needs to be a new threaded fitting made to be able to connect the Setrab directly to the engine. Anyone know if these are available?

I turned the heater to full blast and that helped get some heat off the engine, but in Florida even with the windows down, that is not comfortable. Any ideas on how to have the heat set on max, and get that air directed outside the car instead?

2012 models and up have the factory cooler. I went with a setreb series 9 see thread I made if you want to delete your stocker and add an aftermarket one.
DIY 2012 25 row Setreb Series 9 Install & stock oil cooler delete

Zauskycop · 05-08-2014, 07:02 PM

Sure you have the largest? Check out Fast Intentions...larger, and deals with that oil "heater" issue also!

Tracy

Rangerz · 05-08-2014, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zauskycop

Sure you have the largest? Check out Fast Intentions...larger, and deals with that oil "heater" issue also!

Tracy

Ask Chuck what he uses he has a monster cooler and deals with Houston heat as well as being boosted.

I have yet to get over 220 with 25 min sessions. Its been cool here but, mine works great for what I do with it.

newtonova822 · 05-16-2014, 07:28 PM

Do you have electric fans on the oil cooler? setrab has that

There are also series numbers for coolers for BTU specs if you bought from someone who supplies a kit that may be part of problem. lower series # But I am no expert.

Good Luck!
jb

synolimit · 05-08-2014, 08:23 PM

Properly Vented hood, period!

I havent had a chance to track yet but around town driving fast, 90* stop and go traffic for hours, canyon carving etc! I've yet to hit 220 in my 13. I don't think the coolant increases temps because coolant stays around 200-210. That's obviously cooler than 270. But if you want to remove the OEM one you need the oil filter threaded plug off a 09-11. I just bought one from nissan. It's only $8.

Also SSfirehawk?? Had a 72 row

. He's in Vegas and I believe had trouble hitting 200.

Chuck33079 · 05-08-2014, 08:41 PM

I put a spal fan on my oil cooler with a relay that switches it on once it hits around 220. The oil will creep up to 225 or so if I'm beating on it, but no further.

If you get a tune, you can set the fans to come on earlier. That will help a lot.

At the end of the day, a hood vent will probably solve a good chunk of your issues, if not all of it. You have to get the hot air out somehow.

takjak2 · 05-08-2014, 11:31 PM

How far from the radiator is your oil cooler mounted?

martin82 · 05-09-2014, 01:27 AM

You can try 1) shrouding your oil cooler for dollars, 2 shrouding + fan, 3) remove the oem oil cooler which I did just buy oil filter stub for older cars w no oil coolers

What kind of oil are you running also, strange because my oil never went past 265 even at 110+ degrees at the track on a 2012 w oem oil cooler and z1 34 row.

SunsetZ · 05-09-2014, 11:19 AM

Sorry, I forgot I posted in here as well as the general discussion forum. I have the 34 row Setrab, the largest offered by Z1. Thanks for the mention of Fast Intentions, they gave me the nissan part number to remove the coolant collar and I plan on just looping the coolant lines after I remove that collar part. Hopefully that will solve this. If not I will look into bigger radiator, or fans. Just using stock oil as synthetics do not run any cooler according to my research.

Big issue was holding 2nd gear near red line all the way around two very long curves at PBIR. Might have to give up some corner exit speed by using third gear with the lower revs instead.

martin82 · 05-09-2014, 11:37 AM

Actually running oem oil vs any good oil will make a big difference. I highly recommend not tracking on oem oil, I run motul

nepali · 05-09-2014, 11:52 AM

Just like the oil cooler, one thread is not enough: One oil cooler is not enough

JARblue · 05-09-2014, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nepali

Just like the oil cooler, one thread is not enough: One oil cooler is not enough

Maybe the mods can help him out and combine the two.

ValidusVentus · 05-10-2014, 01:28 AM

I second what Martin said about the shrouding, also a shroud to effectively reduce the gap between the oil cooler and the heat exchanger behind it should help airflow. Also quality oil. Redline 5w30 is a very good oil as well as other actual full synthetics, motul, royal purple, mobile one etc. Do not run a heavier oil, that will just reduce your oil flow (and hence the cooling ability of the oil cooler) unless your engine specifically requires it for other reasons. Venting the engine bay through your hood or fenders should also help though it may be beyond the scope of your project.

PS ... dunno about the fan idea, I'm 99.9999999 % sure that during hard driving it would just reduce flow by adding an obstruction in the flow path... unless of course your fan is capale of moving air at 120+ mph, in that case your prolly good!

05-08-2014, 01:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
SunsetZ Base Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Orlando Posts: 70 Drives: on the edge Rep Power: 12	One oil cooler is not enough I installed the largest Setrab cooler available for the Z and on the third 25 min session at PBIR it hit temps high enough to limit rpm. The 13 and 14 model year cars have a collar between the engine and oil filter that uses engine coolant to help "cool" the oil. I have a feeling this is actually heating the oil instead when a separate cooler is installed. I took it off to see if I could just put a return on it and not use that coolant thing, but there needs to be a new threaded fitting made to be able to connect the Setrab directly to the engine. Anyone know if these are available? I turned the heater to full blast and that helped get some heat off the engine, but in Florida even with the windows down, that is not comfortable. Any ideas on how to have the heat set on max, and get that air directed outside the car instead? __________________ 2014 370Z 6MT Sport Midnight Blue 2013 GT-R Aurora Flare Blue Pearl

05-08-2014, 06:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
Shamu A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,059 Drives: 370Z Racecar Rep Power: 20	What size setrab are you using? Have you considered putting larger aftermarket oil pan on the car? How about upgraded radiator too? What kind of oil are you using? __________________ Grant

05-16-2014, 07:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
newtonova822 Base Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: No Va Posts: 70 Drives: 2014-370Z-White_Manu Rep Power: 11	Setrab has a dual fan model Do you have electric fans on the oil cooler? setrab has that There are also series numbers for coolers for BTU specs if you bought from someone who supplies a kit that may be part of problem. lower series # But I am no expert. Good Luck! jb

05-08-2014, 08:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Properly Vented hood, period! I havent had a chance to track yet but around town driving fast, 90* stop and go traffic for hours, canyon carving etc! I've yet to hit 220 in my 13. I don't think the coolant increases temps because coolant stays around 200-210. That's obviously cooler than 270. But if you want to remove the OEM one you need the oil filter threaded plug off a 09-11. I just bought one from nissan. It's only $8. Also SSfirehawk?? Had a 72 row . He's in Vegas and I believe had trouble hitting 200. __________________ 13 370z-

05-08-2014, 08:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	I put a spal fan on my oil cooler with a relay that switches it on once it hits around 220. The oil will creep up to 225 or so if I'm beating on it, but no further. If you get a tune, you can set the fans to come on earlier. That will help a lot. At the end of the day, a hood vent will probably solve a good chunk of your issues, if not all of it. You have to get the hot air out somehow. Jordo! and Driftomodachi like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

05-08-2014, 07:02 PM	#4 (permalink)
Zauskycop Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Hinckley IL Posts: 228 Drives: 2012 370Z, '16 Miata Rep Power: 14	Sure you have the largest? Check out Fast Intentions...larger, and deals with that oil "heater" issue also! Tracy

05-08-2014, 11:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
takjak2 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 1,922 Drives: Legit Racecar 370Z Rep Power: 143	How far from the radiator is your oil cooler mounted? __________________ Mods \| Stuff \| Things \| Seat Time \| Nismo facebook.com/TeamSparrowSpeed

05-09-2014, 01:27 AM	#10 (permalink)
martin82 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: los angeles Posts: 2,636 Drives: 12 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 20	You can try 1) shrouding your oil cooler for dollars, 2 shrouding + fan, 3) remove the oem oil cooler which I did just buy oil filter stub for older cars w no oil coolers What kind of oil are you running also, strange because my oil never went past 265 even at 110+ degrees at the track on a 2012 w oem oil cooler and z1 34 row.

05-09-2014, 11:19 AM	#11 (permalink)
SunsetZ Base Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Orlando Posts: 70 Drives: on the edge Rep Power: 12	Sorry, I forgot I posted in here as well as the general discussion forum. I have the 34 row Setrab, the largest offered by Z1. Thanks for the mention of Fast Intentions, they gave me the nissan part number to remove the coolant collar and I plan on just looping the coolant lines after I remove that collar part. Hopefully that will solve this. If not I will look into bigger radiator, or fans. Just using stock oil as synthetics do not run any cooler according to my research. Big issue was holding 2nd gear near red line all the way around two very long curves at PBIR. Might have to give up some corner exit speed by using third gear with the lower revs instead. __________________ 2014 370Z 6MT Sport Midnight Blue 2013 GT-R Aurora Flare Blue Pearl

05-09-2014, 11:37 AM	#12 (permalink)
martin82 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: los angeles Posts: 2,636 Drives: 12 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 20	Actually running oem oil vs any good oil will make a big difference. I highly recommend not tracking on oem oil, I run motul

05-09-2014, 11:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
nepali Track Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 597 Drives: like a maniac! Rep Power: 16	Just like the oil cooler, one thread is not enough: One oil cooler is not enough __________________ '11 SR/6MT/T/S

05-10-2014, 01:28 AM	#15 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 23	I second what Martin said about the shrouding, also a shroud to effectively reduce the gap between the oil cooler and the heat exchanger behind it should help airflow. Also quality oil. Redline 5w30 is a very good oil as well as other actual full synthetics, motul, royal purple, mobile one etc. Do not run a heavier oil, that will just reduce your oil flow (and hence the cooling ability of the oil cooler) unless your engine specifically requires it for other reasons. Venting the engine bay through your hood or fenders should also help though it may be beyond the scope of your project. PS ... dunno about the fan idea, I'm 99.9999999 % sure that during hard driving it would just reduce flow by adding an obstruction in the flow path... unless of course your fan is capale of moving air at 120+ mph, in that case your prolly good! __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\|

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