Yup the stock mapping and safety features really kill the driving pleasure out of these cars and makes them granny friendly.

April 5th event @ Club Loose was in one word, Amazing!
Many great drivers with everyone being super helpful.

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On a technical note: There is about half inch in space between lower control arm and the front rim at static max lock. During the event due to loads the lower arm showed more wear...I'm not going crazy but I painted over the old spot I had cut. The wheel cut some 5mm more of it out and tire polished it up again...I will try some 20 or 25mm front spacers.IMO the More angle = more fun because you can save yourself.

In the end I was doing entries at about 50-55mph. Just have to learn / build confidence in yourself and the car. Initiating well, reacting in the moment not after the weight shift is key to a fun drift IMO. Cannot wait for the next even!!

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Hey URA, even with your modified tie rod setup, and shaved off bumpstops, are you experiencing more ackerman angle at full lock? Any issues with overcentering the powersteering rack?

I can tell its a lot of ackerman because of the scrub but cannot tell if its more at full lock than half lock and i'm not having any over centering issues.

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Are you running your front tires in opposite rotation/backwards?

I cant tell if you're at full lock in some of your pics. If you are, then it looks like I will definitely need an angle knuckle of some sort. Everyone in SoCal is pushing for reverse entries nowadays, and with my current setup, I cant even get remotely close to that

I have no idea if full lock is in pics.

Yes I'm running the front Anti-directional because it helps grip over dirt/rocks. Just my experience.

If you want more angle then you will def need new voodoo13 kit or custom lower control arms...they are just physically in the way of much more angle.

If you plan to compete maybe this platform is not ideal at this time. What is your current setup?

Im running a custom spindle that I had made in Japan, similar to the T-Demand one (ƒvƒ�ƒA�[ƒ€ “úŽY SKYLINE V36)

Basically, shortened knuckle with a modified tie rod point. My lower control arm is still intact (shortened bump stops), mostly because at my current height and wheel setup the tire would catch on the fender and will jerk the suspension.

I'm actually doing this in a G37 sedan, so suspension points are the same. The major difference between the Z and my sedan would of course be the heavier weight in the rear. This helps in weight transfer, so I can get a long entry and get a decent amount of rotation. And just like you, I'm scrubbing the fronts, dropping speed, and just waiting until the "corner opens" to get back on to it. However, without the extra angle for the next corner switch back, lock-to-lock is too shallow, and I end up losing the drift.

to be honest, I'm pushing the car to drive like a 240SX, so I may be asking too much out of the chassis layout at the moment....

nice! do you have pics of any drifting? if so, just post!

240's are so well sorted we just need more testing with these cars to figure them out.

Update : April

Added 20MM Z1 spacers to all 4 corners (on top of arp extended studs)
- no longer any front clearance issues
- feels more stable having almost 40mm wider track.

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Sorry, just tuning in to this thread. Im curious to why you are changing the proportioning value in the rear?

Any New Updates on this Sub'd!

it's where it belongs, the ABS on this car gets downright scary at times. It has put me off track more times than I care to remember.