Originally Posted by AK370Z before alignment is stock. I think I hit a curb in 2012 Sept. That's when I had a mechanic friend do the alignment on hunter machine.
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04-07-2014, 11:08 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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That I don't know. I don't see why they wouldn't be. All you're doing is taking adjustment ability out of the setup. Does the rules say you have to adjust to OEM spec? Or can you adjust to whatever numbers you'd like? I get arms might be illegal for over adjustment, but under adjustment should be fine.
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04-08-2014, 12:22 AM | #32 (permalink) | |
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I def. have to look that up. Any link to the actual product? pm me plz
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04-08-2014, 12:54 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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I'd PM you but I want others to see this too.
This is a lock out kit for $72!! SPL Eccentric Lockout Kit . But what it really is, is $2 each 10.9 bolts 100mm x 0.46" which can be picked up at advanced auto parts for $8 total. I'd get washers for each side and nuts too obviously. The plates can be made of anything really, they are not load bearing. You just need to cut them 1.33" in width so they fit in between the notches in the subframe. The trick is to drill your 0.46" hole based on what you want your camber and toe to be. If you drill the hole center and are not in spec you need a plate that has the hole more offset. The beauty is if you make a 1.33x1.33 plate with a offset hole you can turn the plate 4 different directions giving you 4 different toe and camber specs. Takes a little longer for the alignment guy but its not bad to losen the nut, and turn the plate 90 degrees. I used 1/4 thick T6061 plate a foot long by 2" I got for the weight of T6061 at a scrape yard for $0.75c. You can make 100 plates with different off centers before you go blow $72 from SPL.
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 04-08-2014 at 12:57 AM. |
04-08-2014, 09:04 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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Lockout kits are entirely a waste of money and not needed...
The important thing is to properly lube/clean the rear bolts so they properly tighten the adjusters. I see cars with a ton of corrosion in the threads and even tight they are not really applying proper TQ to hold the eccentrics in place. |
04-08-2014, 09:36 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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At Wilmington autox last weekend I ran stock camber front, 1.5 rear, 0 toe front and 1/8 total toe rear. Car was surprisingly neutral, maybe a touch of under steer that given more time I can dial out with tire pressures and shock settings. Using 275 square ad08rs on stock rims with front sway for c street class.
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04-08-2014, 12:17 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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04-08-2014, 02:52 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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08-11-2015, 06:05 PM | #38 (permalink) | |
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I ask because I'm having my alignment checked. I run BS in autox, with Konis and hotchkis front bar, sport package, but 18" wheels (F14s) on re71 tires (275/35 square). Current setup is as follows: Front camber: -1.25/-1.0 (not adjustable)It was suggested (by an experienced, but non-370z guy) that I should change rear camber to -2 and rear toe closer to 0. After reading up on here, it seems like people say -1.5 or -1.8 is better. I was thinking of making the following change: Front: no changeWhat does everyone think? Last edited by zpower86; 08-11-2015 at 06:23 PM. |
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08-13-2015, 03:53 AM | #39 (permalink) | |
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08-13-2015, 07:22 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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08-13-2015, 10:28 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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simple trigonometry
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08-13-2015, 11:09 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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But where's the measurement coming from? 1 degree at the hub wouldn't be 1 degree at the rim. I don't see it being 100% accurate every time.
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08-14-2015, 04:15 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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Any flat edge on the face of the wheel can be used to measure toe, at the track here is what we use:
Longacre Deluxe Toe Plates 79505
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