Need autox alignment suggestion/specs: 285/35 19" Sq. tires, stock suspension

AK370Z · 03-20-2014, 12:58 AM

Hey guys,

As you saw from this thread, I have been autox-ing regularly now. I am hoping to do 3 events every month (at least hoping to).

I ended up getting 285/35-19" RE-11 all around sq. setup and I love it. Best decision ever made. So, finally I wanted to get an alignment that will take advantage of the wide REs and give me even quicker time. My suspension is bone stock including all stock sways.

So, what kind of autox friendly alignment do you recommend? I want to stay in street (C Street) class. Remember, I still have to make it to the event driving on regular roads/highways (sometimes in rain) etc. So maybe a spec that works for regular driving and autox? Also keep in mind, this will be my 2nd season. So, I may not be there quite yet. A 5 year old autox PRO may benefit from certain spec vs. me on the same car.

I asked a national driver,"What if I get a front sway, what's alignment should I get?" He suggested try to minimize rear camber/toe (-1.5 camber, 0 toe). In the front, 1/8" total toe out in the front.

Perhaps I need more positive camber/toe in the rear (than above mentioned) with stock front sway? Lets hear your suggestions. Thank you in advance

vh1 · 03-20-2014, 02:53 AM

Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street.

Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has.

Front Camber: -2.2 Deg.
Front Toe: 0
Front Caster: 5.5 Deg.

Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg.
Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left)

I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear.

Hope this helps or gives you a starting point.

Rangerz · 03-20-2014, 08:14 AM

AK,

I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in.

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

Boss_302 · 03-20-2014, 10:24 AM

When you went square, did you match the rim widths? or stayed with the front stock width?

AK370Z · 03-20-2014, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vh1

Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street.

Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has.

Front Camber: -2.2 Deg.
Front Toe: 0
Front Caster: 5.5 Deg.

Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg.
Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left)

I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear.

Hope this helps or gives you a starting point.

Thank Vh1. Those are some nice camber. I am not sure if I can do something similar on stock suspension as C Street class (in Autox) do not allow any camber kit/toe bolts etc. This is Stock Suspension spec for 09 Nissan 370Z

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

AK,

I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in.

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

Thanks for the input. That's why I wanted to post it here so that I can hear more. I rarely have been doing HPDE lately due to car getting older (almost 85K and the lack of oil cooler). So, I'm pretty much focused on Autox. So, an autox only alignment spec is what I was interested in.

I am def. keeping your suggestion written down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boss_302

When you went square, did you match the rim widths? or stayed with the front stock width?

Stock front rims (19" Sport Rays). Fits fine, no rub - no issues.

clintfocus · 03-20-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

AK,

I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in.

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

i dont have a issue with zero toe in the back, i ran slight toe in before, then went zero and didnt find the rear any less stable

Red__Zed · 03-20-2014, 08:58 PM

You can't do much in class.

Dial in minimal camber in the rear. The rear camber curves are aggressive and you want to be flat as possible to get power down. I like a little toe in out back on the Z, but it's personal preference.

You definitely need toe out up front, how much is preference. I kept mine pretty aggressive for autoX, but it makes the car trouble on the highway. 1/8 should be a good starting point.

A good front bar will help reel in the rollover the Z struggles with as well. In my experience the Hotckis is too stiff to use without extremely aggressive camber dialed in, but others have had different experiences.

The square setup should do you well. I'd consider going down in height next round of tires for the gearing advantage, nice to have on the autoX course.

redline10000 · 03-20-2014, 09:58 PM

AK

I have a setup simialr to yours. Front swaybar, 275/35/19 square on stock rays and no front camber arms. I did some research and came up with zero toe up front, either zero or 1/8 toe in, in the rear and -1.5 rear camber. I got these numbers from the forum and then found an article on motoiq that suggest the same setup, hope that helps. Also I saw that toe out is good but I dont want the car going all over the road on the hwy. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ing-your-Toe.a

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ve-Camber.aspx

Rangerz · 03-20-2014, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

i dont have a issue with zero toe in the back, i ran slight toe in before, then went zero and didnt find the rear any less stable

Boy I sure did rear would hook inot a corner then just let go. I did have 2.5 neg camber at the back at the time. Have since changed to just under stock toe and 1.8 neg camber and it is night and day.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Boy I sure did rear would hook inot a corner then just let go. I did have 2.5 neg camber at the back at the time. Have since changed to just under stock toe and 1.8 neg camber and it is night and day.

what sway bars do you run? yeah that -1.8 is better for the rear. in general id never run over -2 out back since out rear suspension has a very aggressive camber curve under comrpession

Rangerz · 03-21-2014, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

what sway bars do you run? yeah that -1.8 is better for the rear. in general id never run over -2 out back since out rear suspension has a very aggressive camber curve under comrpession

Everthing is stock Nismo on the rear. Front is SPL upper control and everything else stock Nismo.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Everthing is stock Nismo on the rear. Front is SPL upper control and everything else stock Nismo.

i have a large front sway, so it prolly contributes to a more tame rear even with the rear toe set at zero. These cars seriously like a big front sway

synolimit · 03-21-2014, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

Whats that mean? Please say toe out or toe in and if you have a degree number vs a length number.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 10:18 PM

yes! Synolimit is here!!!

synolimit · 03-21-2014, 10:23 PM

03-20-2014, 12:58 AM	#1 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Need autox alignment suggestion/specs: 285/35 19" Sq. tires, stock suspension Hey guys, As you saw from this thread, I have been autox-ing regularly now. I am hoping to do 3 events every month (at least hoping to). I ended up getting 285/35-19" RE-11 all around sq. setup and I love it. Best decision ever made. So, finally I wanted to get an alignment that will take advantage of the wide REs and give me even quicker time. My suspension is bone stock including all stock sways. So, what kind of autox friendly alignment do you recommend? I want to stay in street (C Street) class. Remember, I still have to make it to the event driving on regular roads/highways (sometimes in rain) etc. So maybe a spec that works for regular driving and autox? Also keep in mind, this will be my 2nd season. So, I may not be there quite yet. A 5 year old autox PRO may benefit from certain spec vs. me on the same car. I asked a national driver,"What if I get a front sway, what's alignment should I get?" He suggested try to minimize rear camber/toe (-1.5 camber, 0 toe). In the front, 1/8" total toe out in the front. Perhaps I need more positive camber/toe in the rear (than above mentioned) with stock front sway? Lets hear your suggestions. Thank you in advance __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

03-20-2014, 02:53 AM	#2 (permalink)
vh1 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: SoCal Posts: 25 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 12	vh1's alignment specs Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street. Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has. Front Camber: -2.2 Deg. Front Toe: 0 Front Caster: 5.5 Deg. Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg. Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left) I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear. Hope this helps or gives you a starting point. GSS138 likes this. __________________ 2014 370Z - Midnight Blue, FI Twin Turbo, Specialty Z 6 Puck Clutch, eboost2, Swift Springs, SPL Front Arms and Rear Camber Arm, SPC Toe Bolt, FI CBE w/18 Resonators and Res HFC

03-20-2014, 08:14 AM	#3 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	AK, I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in. For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

03-20-2014, 08:58 PM	#7 (permalink)
Red__Zed A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: window seat Posts: 28,940 Drives: Mostly on two wheels Rep Power: 120	You can't do much in class. Dial in minimal camber in the rear. The rear camber curves are aggressive and you want to be flat as possible to get power down. I like a little toe in out back on the Z, but it's personal preference. You definitely need toe out up front, how much is preference. I kept mine pretty aggressive for autoX, but it makes the car trouble on the highway. 1/8 should be a good starting point. A good front bar will help reel in the rollover the Z struggles with as well. In my experience the Hotckis is too stiff to use without extremely aggressive camber dialed in, but others have had different experiences. The square setup should do you well. I'd consider going down in height next round of tires for the gearing advantage, nice to have on the autoX course. Last edited by Red__Zed; 03-20-2014 at 09:01 PM.

03-20-2014, 09:58 PM	#8 (permalink)
redline10000 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: boston Posts: 265 Drives: 2011 370z sport Rep Power: 13	AK I have a setup simialr to yours. Front swaybar, 275/35/19 square on stock rays and no front camber arms. I did some research and came up with zero toe up front, either zero or 1/8 toe in, in the rear and -1.5 rear camber. I got these numbers from the forum and then found an article on motoiq that suggest the same setup, hope that helps. Also I saw that toe out is good but I dont want the car going all over the road on the hwy. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ing-your-Toe.a http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ve-Camber.aspx __________________ AAM Axleback + AAM Midpipe \| K&N Drop in filters \| Eibach Front Sway bar \|Whiteline diff bushing\| Dunlop ZII Last edited by redline10000; 03-20-2014 at 10:00 PM.

03-20-2014, 10:24 AM	#4 (permalink)
Boss_302 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: NY NY Posts: 150 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z S Mt Rep Power: 12	When you went square, did you match the rim widths? or stayed with the front stock width?

03-21-2014, 10:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	yes! Synolimit is here!!! GSS138 likes this.

03-21-2014, 10:23 PM	#15 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	__________________ 13 370z-

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