Need autox alignment suggestion/specs: 285/35 19" Sq. tires, stock suspension

vh1 · 03-20-2014, 01:53 AM

Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street.

Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has.

Front Camber: -2.2 Deg.
Front Toe: 0
Front Caster: 5.5 Deg.

Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg.
Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left)

I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear.

Hope this helps or gives you a starting point.

Rangerz · 03-20-2014, 07:14 AM

AK,

I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in.

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

clintfocus · 03-20-2014, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

AK,

I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in.

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

i dont have a issue with zero toe in the back, i ran slight toe in before, then went zero and didnt find the rear any less stable

Rangerz · 03-20-2014, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

i dont have a issue with zero toe in the back, i ran slight toe in before, then went zero and didnt find the rear any less stable

Boy I sure did rear would hook inot a corner then just let go. I did have 2.5 neg camber at the back at the time. Have since changed to just under stock toe and 1.8 neg camber and it is night and day.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Boy I sure did rear would hook inot a corner then just let go. I did have 2.5 neg camber at the back at the time. Have since changed to just under stock toe and 1.8 neg camber and it is night and day.

what sway bars do you run? yeah that -1.8 is better for the rear. in general id never run over -2 out back since out rear suspension has a very aggressive camber curve under comrpession

Rangerz · 03-21-2014, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

what sway bars do you run? yeah that -1.8 is better for the rear. in general id never run over -2 out back since out rear suspension has a very aggressive camber curve under comrpession

Everthing is stock Nismo on the rear. Front is SPL upper control and everything else stock Nismo.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

Everthing is stock Nismo on the rear. Front is SPL upper control and everything else stock Nismo.

i have a large front sway, so it prolly contributes to a more tame rear even with the rear toe set at zero. These cars seriously like a big front sway

synolimit · 03-21-2014, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now.

Whats that mean? Please say toe out or toe in and if you have a degree number vs a length number.

Rangerz · 03-24-2014, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Whats that mean? Please say toe out or toe in and if you have a degree number vs a length number.

It means if the low spec is .09 and the middle (factory suggested spec) is .15 then I was shooting for .12. Immaterial if it is degrees or /100's I was shooting for the middle of the factory spec and the min spec.

Toe in... I was talking about the rear not sure why one would go with toe out unless it on a stroller but, I guess you could.

synolimit · 03-24-2014, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

It means if the low spec is .09 and the middle (factory suggested spec) is .15 then I was shooting for .12. Immaterial if it is degrees or /100's I was shooting for the middle of the factory spec and the min spec.

Toe in... I was talking about the rear not sure why one would go with toe out unless it on a stroller but, I guess you could.

I was referring to actual numbers. I use a Hunter hence the wanting degrees if you had them vs length.

Ok now I'm confused. You said in post 3 you shot for just under factory spec. To me that means not in spec at all anymore. now you say .09 is the low and .15 is the middle and you shot for .12 which to me is still in the green and not the red.

Well what I've come across is everyone says things different with toe. Hunter reverses the positive and negative from the rest of the world so when I talk about toe I just want to hear it one way so I understand. If you had said .12 positive that could mean one of two ways. So I said please say if its in or out.

Rangerz · 03-25-2014, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

I was referring to actual numbers. I use a Hunter hence the wanting degrees if you had them vs length.

Ok now I'm confused. You said in post 3 you shot for just under factory spec. To me that means not in spec at all anymore. now you say .09 is the low and .15 is the middle and you shot for .12 which to me is still in the green and not the red.

Well what I've come across is everyone says things different with toe. Hunter reverses the positive and negative from the rest of the world so when I talk about toe I just want to hear it one way so I understand. If you had said .12 positive that could mean one of two ways. So I said please say if its in or out.

I think the same can be said for camber and caster. I think your spliting hairs over an exact number. If I had a garage at the track I would be all over changing this and that and finding the optimum settings. In my case I went zero toe front and rear. The front felt fine but, the rear was loose big time. So I knew I wanted some toe in but, due to tire wear issues wanted less toe in than factory spec. After this weekend at the track and for my level I feel I have a hellva well balanced Z. Now othesr run zero toe in the rear and feel the same about thier Z.

I think to get what I think your looking for you will have to find someone running the same tires, suspension, spacers/no spacers, sway bars, etc... Not sure what type of setup your looking for track, auto x, drag strip but go with zero if that feels like crap a little toe in as you think will help.

synolimit · 03-25-2014, 03:55 AM

Not trying to split hairs. Was just curious what numbers you were shooting for and which way you set them. Everyone says shoot for zero but I know its almost impossible to hit 0.00 on the head. A fly could land on the rack and it changes. Plus whatever fuel you have in the car will change the moment you leave and lose some, plus if you were or were not sitting in the car at the time. I just took what you said about shooting lower than spec meant shoot for under 0.09, closer to zero. But if you shot for 0.12 you were just shooting for under the middle range number if I understand now? Which is still in spec but under half way of the spec range.

Yes all true. I think we should start a tread if one hasn't been and state everything you have suspension wise, weight, tires, wheels, settings, ratio, and then how you think it feels. Might give people like me a better understanding. For example I know Spohn and I have the same wheels and soon to be tires. We have different suspension and weight but maybe the next guy comes along and sees our setups and can pick one to follow instead of shooting in the dark blind folded.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

I think the same can be said for camber and caster. I think your spliting hairs over an exact number. If I had a garage at the track I would be all over changing this and that and finding the optimum settings. In my case I went zero toe front and rear. The front felt fine but, the rear was loose big time. So I knew I wanted some toe in but, due to tire wear issues wanted less toe in than factory spec. After this weekend at the track and for my level I feel I have a hellva well balanced Z. Now othesr run zero toe in the rear and feel the same about thier Z.

I think to get what I think your looking for you will have to find someone running the same tires, suspension, spacers/no spacers, sway bars, etc... Not sure what type of setup your looking for track, auto x, drag strip but go with zero if that feels like crap a little toe in as you think will help.

GSS138 · 08-13-2015, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vh1

Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street.

Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has.

Front Camber: -2.2 Deg.
Front Toe: 0
Front Caster: 5.5 Deg.

Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg.
Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left)

I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear.

Hope this helps or gives you a starting point.

This is a solid spec expecially on OEM suspension.

03-20-2014, 01:53 AM	#1 (permalink)
vh1 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: SoCal Posts: 25 Drives: 14 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 12	vh1's alignment specs Here is what I am running on my car for the street. The intent was to get it close to AutoX numbers and livable on the street. Disclaimer: Haven't run it on the track but feels pretty balanced in the canyons(slight oversteer in the canyons on stock RE050's). Might try going down to -1.5 Deg. on the rear camber as you noted to see what effect it has. Front Camber: -2.2 Deg. Front Toe: 0 Front Caster: 5.5 Deg. Rear Camber: -1.8 Deg. Rear Toe: 1/16" or 0.01 Deg. Total (1/32" Right + 1/32" Left) I have swift springs with SPL Front and Rear Camber adjustment and SPC Toe Bolts on the rear. Hope this helps or gives you a starting point. GSS138 likes this. __________________ 2014 370Z - Midnight Blue, FI Twin Turbo, Specialty Z 6 Puck Clutch, eboost2, Swift Springs, SPL Front Arms and Rear Camber Arm, SPC Toe Bolt, FI CBE w/18 Resonators and Res HFC

03-20-2014, 07:14 AM	#2 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	AK, I know on the track zero toe on the back was horrible. Made the rear break loose far to soon. Zero to up front you will love as the steering feels much lighter and easier to turn in. For rear toe I shot for just under the factory recommended spec. Much much better stays planted now. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Stock alignment specs?	import111	Brakes & Suspension	30	09-18-2021 03:17 PM
Eibach Suspension IN STOCK \| Springs, Alignment Kits \| FREE S&H!!!	AJ@ECSMotorsports	Suspension/Brakes	68	03-10-2014 11:39 AM
Alignment Specs? Need Help	Rectorna	Brakes & Suspension	3	01-10-2014 04:29 PM
My Alignment specs - Please Help	FlawlessZ	Brakes & Suspension	39	01-04-2013 10:35 AM
First autox on stock tires.	whoady4shoady	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	7	07-10-2012 09:10 PM