Need autox alignment suggestion/specs: 285/35 19" Sq. tires, stock suspension

Rusty · 03-21-2014, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

yes! Synolimit is here!!!

Sorry, I find this as funny. Coming home after working a 16 hr day.

I need a smile.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 10:28 PM

i can always depend on Synolimit popping up as soon as i mention "sway bars", well except for that duration of time he was banned :X

synolimit · 03-21-2014, 10:31 PM

Not a sway bar thread.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 10:36 PM

yeah its a parking lot racing tread

synolimit · 03-21-2014, 10:46 PM

Then I don't need mentioned in posts since I'm not numbers and degrees. I asked a toe question staying on topic, plan and simple.

clintfocus · 03-21-2014, 10:51 PM

oh man dont get bent outta shape dude LOL

7speed · 03-23-2014, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

Stock front rims (19" Sport Rays). Fits fine, no rub - no issues.

No pics, then it never happened. Jk but can you take a pic i want to see how front looks with that width.

Rangerz · 03-24-2014, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Whats that mean? Please say toe out or toe in and if you have a degree number vs a length number.

It means if the low spec is .09 and the middle (factory suggested spec) is .15 then I was shooting for .12. Immaterial if it is degrees or /100's I was shooting for the middle of the factory spec and the min spec.

Toe in... I was talking about the rear not sure why one would go with toe out unless it on a stroller but, I guess you could.

synolimit · 03-24-2014, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

It means if the low spec is .09 and the middle (factory suggested spec) is .15 then I was shooting for .12. Immaterial if it is degrees or /100's I was shooting for the middle of the factory spec and the min spec.

Toe in... I was talking about the rear not sure why one would go with toe out unless it on a stroller but, I guess you could.

I was referring to actual numbers. I use a Hunter hence the wanting degrees if you had them vs length.

Ok now I'm confused. You said in post 3 you shot for just under factory spec. To me that means not in spec at all anymore. now you say .09 is the low and .15 is the middle and you shot for .12 which to me is still in the green and not the red.

Well what I've come across is everyone says things different with toe. Hunter reverses the positive and negative from the rest of the world so when I talk about toe I just want to hear it one way so I understand. If you had said .12 positive that could mean one of two ways. So I said please say if its in or out.

Rangerz · 03-25-2014, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

I was referring to actual numbers. I use a Hunter hence the wanting degrees if you had them vs length.

Ok now I'm confused. You said in post 3 you shot for just under factory spec. To me that means not in spec at all anymore. now you say .09 is the low and .15 is the middle and you shot for .12 which to me is still in the green and not the red.

Well what I've come across is everyone says things different with toe. Hunter reverses the positive and negative from the rest of the world so when I talk about toe I just want to hear it one way so I understand. If you had said .12 positive that could mean one of two ways. So I said please say if its in or out.

I think the same can be said for camber and caster. I think your spliting hairs over an exact number. If I had a garage at the track I would be all over changing this and that and finding the optimum settings. In my case I went zero toe front and rear. The front felt fine but, the rear was loose big time. So I knew I wanted some toe in but, due to tire wear issues wanted less toe in than factory spec. After this weekend at the track and for my level I feel I have a hellva well balanced Z. Now othesr run zero toe in the rear and feel the same about thier Z.

I think to get what I think your looking for you will have to find someone running the same tires, suspension, spacers/no spacers, sway bars, etc... Not sure what type of setup your looking for track, auto x, drag strip but go with zero if that feels like crap a little toe in as you think will help.

synolimit · 03-25-2014, 04:55 AM

Not trying to split hairs. Was just curious what numbers you were shooting for and which way you set them. Everyone says shoot for zero but I know its almost impossible to hit 0.00 on the head. A fly could land on the rack and it changes. Plus whatever fuel you have in the car will change the moment you leave and lose some, plus if you were or were not sitting in the car at the time. I just took what you said about shooting lower than spec meant shoot for under 0.09, closer to zero. But if you shot for 0.12 you were just shooting for under the middle range number if I understand now? Which is still in spec but under half way of the spec range.

Yes all true. I think we should start a tread if one hasn't been and state everything you have suspension wise, weight, tires, wheels, settings, ratio, and then how you think it feels. Might give people like me a better understanding. For example I know Spohn and I have the same wheels and soon to be tires. We have different suspension and weight but maybe the next guy comes along and sees our setups and can pick one to follow instead of shooting in the dark blind folded.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

I think the same can be said for camber and caster. I think your spliting hairs over an exact number. If I had a garage at the track I would be all over changing this and that and finding the optimum settings. In my case I went zero toe front and rear. The front felt fine but, the rear was loose big time. So I knew I wanted some toe in but, due to tire wear issues wanted less toe in than factory spec. After this weekend at the track and for my level I feel I have a hellva well balanced Z. Now othesr run zero toe in the rear and feel the same about thier Z.

I think to get what I think your looking for you will have to find someone running the same tires, suspension, spacers/no spacers, sway bars, etc... Not sure what type of setup your looking for track, auto x, drag strip but go with zero if that feels like crap a little toe in as you think will help.

clintfocus · 03-25-2014, 11:35 AM

AK370Z · 04-07-2014, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

i dont have a issue with zero toe in the back, i ran slight toe in before, then went zero and didnt find the rear any less stable

Awesome! great to know. yeah I think I want to start with 0 rear toe and see how it feels. There's a test and tune I signed up for Sun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

You can't do much in class.

Dial in minimal camber in the rear. The rear camber curves are aggressive and you want to be flat as possible to get power down. I like a little toe in out back on the Z, but it's personal preference.

You definitely need toe out up front, how much is preference. I kept mine pretty aggressive for autoX, but it makes the car trouble on the highway. 1/8 should be a good starting point.

A good front bar will help reel in the rollover the Z struggles with as well. In my experience the Hotckis is too stiff to use without extremely aggressive camber dialed in, but others have had different experiences.

The square setup should do you well. I'd consider going down in height next round of tires for the gearing advantage, nice to have on the autoX course.

Dan,
Thanks for the detailed reply. I agree with you as it's limited what I can do in Stock Street category. But I like it bc I rather be a fast driver in a slow car than "OK" driver in a fast car.

I'm def. leaning toward toe out. Going to try 1/8" total toe out in the front and see how it feels. When you can car "wobble/trouble" in highway, how bad is it? Z still daily driver and I drive pretty high speed in highway. As for going down on height, I think 35 was the least high in 285 tires. I could be wrong.

thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by redline10000

AK

I have a setup simialr to yours. Front swaybar, 275/35/19 square on stock rays and no front camber arms. I did some research and came up with zero toe up front, either zero or 1/8 toe in, in the rear and -1.5 rear camber. I got these numbers from the forum and then found an article on motoiq that suggest the same setup, hope that helps. Also I saw that toe out is good but I dont want the car going all over the road on the hwy. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ing-your-Toe.a

The Ultimate Guide to Suspension and Handling: Part Six, Adding Negative Camber

Nice! good to hear. I don't have front sway

. May next year I'll try a mild (eiback/stillen mid setting) Front sway but for now, stock will do. Any reason why you picked 0 toe in the front vs. slight toe out? I heard toe out in the front helps turns in autox.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boss_302

When you went square, did you match the rim widths? or stayed with the front stock width?

stock width.

an autox course in a pouring rainy h*ll

This is from EVO school yesterday

Looks awesome! there's a slight bulge but barely noticable. Feels good on the pavement. I run usually 37F/38R or 38F/39R

thanks.

So, tomm is the day (I'm hoping) I get the alignment done. Kind of finalized on:

Front: 1/8" total toe out in the front (I keep hearing it helps turn better in autox)
Rear: -1/5 camber and 0 toe.
100% stock Z suspension setup. stock F and R sways.

I am just curious, since my Z is a daily driver, how bad will total 1/8" of front toe out will affect me? I drive in rain and high speed on highway.

synolimit · 04-07-2014, 10:19 PM

Let us know about the before alignment. I know guys that can't hold settings drifting after just one day. The eccentric bolts blow and slip. I'd be surprised if yours are within spec. If you like autox I'd get a lockout kit.

AK370Z · 04-07-2014, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Let us know about the before alignment. I know guys that can't hold settings drifting after just one day. The eccentric bolts blow and slip. I'd be surprised if yours are within spec. If you like autox I'd get a lockout kit.

before alignment is stock. I think I hit a curb in 2012 Sept. That's when I had a mechanic friend do the alignment on hunter machine. Oem spec.

is the lock out kit Stock/street class legal? I don't think I saw it in SCCA rule book

03-21-2014, 10:31 PM	#18 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Not a sway bar thread. __________________ 13 370z-

03-21-2014, 10:46 PM	#20 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Then I don't need mentioned in posts since I'm not numbers and degrees. I asked a toe question staying on topic, plan and simple. __________________ 13 370z-

04-07-2014, 10:19 PM	#29 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Let us know about the before alignment. I know guys that can't hold settings drifting after just one day. The eccentric bolts blow and slip. I'd be surprised if yours are within spec. If you like autox I'd get a lockout kit. __________________ 13 370z-

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03-21-2014, 10:28 PM	#17 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	i can always depend on Synolimit popping up as soon as i mention "sway bars", well except for that duration of time he was banned :X

03-21-2014, 10:36 PM	#19 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	yeah its a parking lot racing tread

03-21-2014, 10:51 PM	#21 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	oh man dont get bent outta shape dude LOL

03-25-2014, 11:35 AM	#27 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 39 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15